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post #20501 of 105816
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackofhearts495 View Post

Attacktrak, are those cracks/chips in the acrylic? I can't really tell from the pictures what the problem is.
Either that, or maybe the LED holes are drilled incorrectly, causing a leak.
 
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post #20502 of 105816
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by kcuestag View Post

http://www.overclock.net/t/1249660/help-choose-my-wc-loop-installation/10#post_17133519
It seems like I could get more attention here, so I'll post it here. I'm in the process of building a custom loop for the first time (I'm a bit nervous biggrin.gif), and I am still not sure which CPU block to choose:
1. EK Supreme LTX - Plexi
2. EK Supreme HF - Plexi
3. EK Supreme HF - Acetal
The "good" thing about the first one is the price, I can get it for less than 25€ (used though for a few months), but it also makes me wonder if it's any good as it is quite cheap.
Out of the 3, I prefer the HF Plexi (2nd) which is a bit more expensive, although a friend suggested the HF Acetal as it is more resistant. Which one should I go for, and why? I'm only planning on cooling an i7 2600k @ 5GHz (~1.42v).
I recommend the acetal,purely for durability,the hf is a solid block and is a great performer
I have heard of the plexi version cracking around the threads but I am sure that's because of heavy handed fitting

Acetyal is no more durable than Acrylic. If you accidentally crossthread in acetal your top is borked and warranty won't cover it. I would go with either of the HF units to be quite honest. I have the Acrylic v1 roundtop and it's quite good. I'm running plate5 in it at the moment. Gonna upgrade to Plate6 to see if I can get another Celcius off my overall temp. If not I'm not gonna sweat the 99cents. smile.gif

You just have to make sure you don't wrench down on the acrylic or the acetal and make sure not to crossthread the fittings or screws. That's the main thing. If you wrench down too much on acrylic you can crack or get microfractures in the structure. Just some important stuff to keep in mind when dealing with those two product materials. What I do is wrench em tight(finger tightened) plus a slight (1/4) turn to make sure the seal is intact. The Oring should have enough give in it to allow it to be compressed that much. thumb.gif

Nothing wrong with the LT block, it's just not the same as the HF but it's a reasonable block for someone just getting into Water Cooling or EK would probably not include them in their kits. That's probably why it's so cheap. Bought as part of the kit and the bloke wants the HF block. wink.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Angrybutcher View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jackofhearts495 View Post

Attacktrak, are those cracks/chips in the acrylic? I can't really tell from the pictures what the problem is.
Either that, or maybe the LED holes are drilled incorrectly, causing a leak.

This. That LED socket seems to be right on top of the thread. That's not good. mellowsmiley.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
Edited by Ceadderman - 5/2/12 at 11:54am
 
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post #20503 of 105816
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

I never got around to asking about your picture of that 3-pin connector, I was unaware that you could convert to a 3-pin connector. How in the would can a fan controller handle to amperage of these Laing pumps? I guess that's alright since I'll be connecting it up directly to the PSU and the fact that I already have control over pump speed of 1-5 speed adjustment.
The D5 pulls around 23w full bore,a FC5 with 30w per channel is more than capable of controlling it
EDIT: gave 24v spec instead of 12v..23w instead of 28w
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Acetyal is no more durable than Acrylic. If you accidentally crossthread in acetal your top is borked and warranty won't cover it. I would go with either of the HF units to be quite honest. I have the Acrylic v1 roundtop and it's quite good. I'm running plate5 in it at the moment. Gonna upgrade to Plate6 to see if I can get another Celcius off my overall temp. If not I'm not gonna sweat the 99cents. smile.gif
You just have to make sure you don't wrench down on the acrylic or the acetal and make sure not to crossthread the fittings or screws. That's the main thing. If you wrench down too much on acrylic you can crack or get microfractures in the structure. Just some important stuff to keep in mind when dealing with those two product materials. What I do is wrench em tight(finger tightened) plus a slight (1/4) turn to make sure the seal is intact. The Oring should have enough give in it to allow it to be compressed that much. thumb.gif
Nothing wrong with the LT block, it's just not the same as the HF but it's a reasonable block for someone just getting into Water Cooling or EK would probably not include them in their kits. That's probably why it's so cheap. Bought as part of the kit and the bloke wants the HF block. wink.gif
~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Acetal is more forgiving than plexi,plexi is more brittle.
More importantly,a smear of silicone grease on the o-ring will help greatly with watertightness and preservation of the ring itself
As for crossthreading,no manu will cover that,regardless of material,although you can re-tap easily by hand if you ruin the threads.
And there are no such things as learner blocks,HF is the better block regardless of skill or experience...
Edited by B NEGATIVE - 5/2/12 at 12:56pm
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post #20504 of 105816
Ordred some Ap-15s today..Got three to add to the back of my RS360 rad. I already have 3 Cougar Vortexs on the front. adding these 3 too the back for a sweet puch pull set up! thumb.gif
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post #20505 of 105816
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fultonloyn View Post

Ordred some Ap-15s today..Got three to add to the back of my RS360 rad. I already have 3 Cougar Vortexs on the front. adding these 3 too the back for a sweet puch pull set up! thumb.gif

You should match the fans really so they work together,RPM's dont matter as much as matching airflow.
The weaker fans will wear fast.
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post #20506 of 105816
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

You should match the fans really so they work together,RPM's dont matter as much as matching airflow.
The weaker fans will wear fast.

I know, but I have had the others for a while and have a controller so they will match RPM.


EDIT: sorry just reread this. What i mean was...so i can match the RPM's to hopefully match airflow...
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post #20507 of 105816
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fultonloyn View Post

I know, but I have had the others for a while and have a controller so they will match RPM.

Its not really about RPM,if one fan moves 50 CFM at 2000rpm and the other moves 30CFM at 2000rpm,its un balanced
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post #20508 of 105816
Quote:
Originally Posted by chino1974 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by phillyd View Post

you should put the res in the 5.25's, and move the pump so you can put ur rad in the top 120mm front mount, youll probably get better temps
My rad won't fit up front unless I pull out the hd cage and I'd probably still have to do some dremeling. It's a 240 rad that's why I put it up top. as for the res going in the front 5.25 bays I might try that out see how it looks and works.

oooooohhh for some dumb reason i thought it was a 120 in the cages.
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post #20509 of 105816
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Its not really about RPM,if one fan moves 50 CFM at 2000rpm and the other moves 30CFM at 2000rpm,its un balanced

Sorry, i edited the prior post to say, match airflow. Or as close as i can calculate and guess. Haha. This is only temp anyways. Going to start a new build this summer, so I will get all AP-15's at that point.
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post #20510 of 105816
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

I never got around to asking about your picture of that 3-pin connector, I was unaware that you could convert to a 3-pin connector. How in the would can a fan controller handle to amperage of these Laing pumps? I guess that's alright since I'll be connecting it up directly to the PSU and the fact that I already have control over pump speed of 1-5 speed adjustment.

It shouldn't use more than 6-12w. I had one converted to 3-pin and hooked up to my old Scythe controller (12w per channel). You can buy the pins from most sites and electronic stores. Just match the wires (Ground, 12v, rpm sensor)

500
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