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post #20511 of 105808
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

It shouldn't use more than 6-12w. I had one converted to 3-pin and hooked up to my old Scythe controller (12w per channel). You can buy the pins from most sites and electronic stores. Just match the wires (Ground, 12v, rpm sensor)
500

A D5 uses a lot more than 12w.
Technical specifications:
Dimensions (WxHxD): 65x65x57mm (without connectors)
Motor: Electronically commuted spherical motor
Rated voltage: 12V DC
Power consumption: 23W
Permitted voltage range: 8-24V DC
Pressure head at 12V: 3,7m
Maximum flow: 1500l/h
Pumped media: Water, water/glycol mixtures (glycol in very small portions)
Maximum system temperature: 60°C
Materials: Stainless steel 1.4571, PPS-GF40, EPDM O-rings, Aluminium oxide, hard coal
Special features: Adjustable in five steps
Step 1: 1800 rpm
Step 2: 2550 rpm
Step 3: 3300 rpm
Step 4: 4050 rpm
Step 5: 4800 rpm
Power connector: 4 Pin Molex

Warranty: 1 year

I have 2 24v D5's in my SR-2 build...they draw close to 28w
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post #20512 of 105808
6 - 12 W sounds like MCP350
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post #20513 of 105808
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mm67 View Post

6 - 12 W sounds like MCP350
Exactly.
They come in 10w and 18w flavours if i am not mistaken?
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post #20514 of 105808
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

I never got around to asking about your picture of that 3-pin connector, I was unaware that you could convert to a 3-pin connector. How in the would can a fan controller handle to amperage of these Laing pumps? I guess that's alright since I'll be connecting it up directly to the PSU and the fact that I already have control over pump speed of 1-5 speed adjustment.
The D5 pulls around 28w full bore,a FC5 with 30w per channel is more than capable of controlling it
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Acetyal is no more durable than Acrylic. If you accidentally crossthread in acetal your top is borked and warranty won't cover it. I would go with either of the HF units to be quite honest. I have the Acrylic v1 roundtop and it's quite good. I'm running plate5 in it at the moment. Gonna upgrade to Plate6 to see if I can get another Celcius off my overall temp. If not I'm not gonna sweat the 99cents. smile.gif
You just have to make sure you don't wrench down on the acrylic or the acetal and make sure not to crossthread the fittings or screws. That's the main thing. If you wrench down too much on acrylic you can crack or get microfractures in the structure. Just some important stuff to keep in mind when dealing with those two product materials. What I do is wrench em tight(finger tightened) plus a slight (1/4) turn to make sure the seal is intact. The Oring should have enough give in it to allow it to be compressed that much. thumb.gif
Nothing wrong with the LT block, it's just not the same as the HF but it's a reasonable block for someone just getting into Water Cooling or EK would probably not include them in their kits. That's probably why it's so cheap. Bought as part of the kit and the bloke wants the HF block. wink.gif
~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Acetal is more forgiving than plexi,plexi is more brittle.
More importantly,a smear of silicone grease on the o-ring will help greatly with watertightness and preservation of the ring itself
As for crossthreading,no manu will cover that,regardless of material,although you can re-tap easily by hand if you ruin the threads.
And there are no such things as learner blocks,HF is the better block regardless of skill or experience...

I consider any block that comes with a kit to be "learner" blocks. Not that that's what they are, but you an I agree that the HF is the better block option. I use PTFE tape(silicon pipe tape) to wrap my threads with so between that and the ORing, I don't get leaks at the thread.

Acetal is no worse nor no better than Acrylic. If you force it you can bork the threads even if the fitting went in cleanly. Not quite sure where you were going there but this is the truth. Things can happen when you overtighten hardware regardless of what the top is made out of. wink.gif

I've had possession of both versions of HF block in acrylic and have to say that I find that to be quite sturdy. If you got gorilla mitts on the ends of your arms I'm not sure that either style would hold up very well. It's pretty much down to whichever suits his build really. thumb.gif

Oh and just a bit of fyi. Nothing super important but a D5 vario is not the same as a D5. I believe the specs you listed were for the Vario and not the base model D5. So the total Wattage will not be the same from the Koolance D5 shown versus the Vario. Unless we're talking about another bloke with a D5 vario. Then you can simple disregard this as abject talkin just to hear my gums flap. biggrin.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
Edited by Ceadderman - 5/2/12 at 1:03pm
 
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post #20515 of 105808
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Exactly.
They come in 10w and 18w flavours if i am not mistaken?

Swiftech lists 8.3 -12 W as nominal values for MCP350 and 14-19 W for MCP355
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post #20516 of 105808
2 280 and 1 400 mm smile.gif squeezed into a storm trooper thumb.gif



DSCN1652.jpg

DSCN1650.jpg

DSCN1649.jpg

DSCN1648.jpg

DSCN1647.jpg

DSCN1645.jpg

DSCN1641.jpg

DSCN1640.jpg





thumb.gif sleep time i think smile.gif

hope you guys like !!!!
post #20517 of 105808
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

I consider any block that comes with a kit to be "learner" blocks. Not that that's what they are, but you an I agree that the HF is the better block option. I use PTFE tape(silicon pipe tape) to wrap my threads with so between that and the ORing, I don't get leaks at the thread.
Acetal is no worse nor no better than Acrylic. If you force it you can bork the threads even if the fitting went in cleanly. Not quite sure where you were going there but this is the truth. Things can happen when you overtighten hardware regardless of what the top is made out of. wink.gif
I've had possession of both versions of HF block in acrylic and have to say that I find that to be quite sturdy. If you got gorilla mitts on the ends of your arms I'm not sure that either style would hold up very well. It's pretty much down to whichever suits his build really. thumb.gif
Oh and just a bit of fyi. Nnothing super important but a D5 vario is not the same as a D5. I believe the specs you listed were for the Vario and not the base model D5. So the total Wattage will not be the same from the Koolance D5 shown versus the Vario. Unless we're talking about another bloke with a D5 vario. Then you can simple disregard this as abject talkin just to hear my gums flap. biggrin.gif
~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
1. The D5 Vario and the normal D5 only differ by having a 5 way switch on the back for speed control,i know..i have both. And before you say 'thats not koolance',it doesnt matter,they are all laing rebrands anyway
2. PTFE tape is not required on WC threads,in fact it can damage them by stressing the threads....No WC loop i have made or seen requires it. And yes,that also applies to Iwaki rd series pumps

Specifications:

Model name: MCP655-B (Basic Version, No Speed Controller)
Nominal Voltage: 12 VDC
Operating Voltage range: 6 - 14 VDC
Nominal Power (@12 V): 24 W
Nominal Current (@12 V): 2 Amp
Motor Type: Brushless, microprocessor controlled
Maximum Head: 11 ft. (3.35 m)
Maximum Discharge: ~ 317 GPH (1200 LPH)
Connection Size: 1/2" barbs
Maximum Pressure: 50 PSI (3.5 BAR)
Temperature Range: 32 - 140 F (0 - 60 C)
Electrical Connector: 4pin Molex
Weight: 1.4 lb (650 g)
Impeller Housing Material: Noryl®
Notes: Includes impeller RPM monitoring capability (via. 3-pin connector)
http://www.petrastechshop.com/lad5smcin12v.html

Please research before answering,incorrect info costs equipment
Edited by B NEGATIVE - 5/2/12 at 1:24pm
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post #20518 of 105808
B... Bro, why the insistence on using uber large print though? I'm not saying you're wrong. Just noticed the slight irregularity with the pump you were referring to and the pump you listed the specs on. Chill kay? Have a Pint on me if you need. Lemme know your PPal an I'll buy.

This is really the only issue I have with your last few posts. We're not blind nor ignorant don't need the emphatic display of you being correct. wink.gif

I use PTFE tape. I don't abuse it. Wrap til it covers the end of the tape, just a mm or two more an that's all you need. Make sure to stretch the tape as you apply it and it should fill any gap left in the production process. Nothing is 100% on spec. There is a margin of error in the tolerances and just cause it fits like it's supposed to by feel doesn't mean that it fits like it's supposed to by spec.

Anyway, not tryin ta be argumentative with you B. Hope that's not how you're taking my input here. mellowsmiley.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #20519 of 105808
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
A D5 uses a lot more than 12w.
Technical specifications:
Dimensions (WxHxD): 65x65x57mm (without connectors)
Motor: Electronically commuted spherical motor
Rated voltage: 12V DC
Power consumption: 23W
Permitted voltage range: 8-24V DC
Pressure head at 12V: 3,7m
Maximum flow: 1500l/h
Pumped media: Water, water/glycol mixtures (glycol in very small portions)
Maximum system temperature: 60°C
Materials: Stainless steel 1.4571, PPS-GF40, EPDM O-rings, Aluminium oxide, hard coal
Special features: Adjustable in five steps
Step 1: 1800 rpm
Step 2: 2550 rpm
Step 3: 3300 rpm
Step 4: 4050 rpm
Step 5: 4800 rpm
Power connector: 4 Pin Molex
Warranty: 1 year
I have 2 24v D5's in my SR-2 build...they draw close to 28w

Thanks for clearing that up. I'm at work the computer I'm using blocks ppcs.com and swiftech.com. I didn't notice any difference when hooked up to the controller or the psu directly. I did find it too loud and very hard to purge (even in mode #4) so I switched back to the DDC 3.2. Plus I like the compact size of the DDC. I did get a DD D5 which I'm sure is no different than the oem D5.
post #20520 of 105808
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

B... Bro, why the insistence on using uber large print though? I'm not saying you're wrong. Just noticed the slight irregularity with the pump you were referring to and the pump you listed the specs on. Chill kay? Have a Pint on me if you need. Lemme know your PPal an I'll buy.
This is really the only issue I have with your last few posts. We're not blind nor ignorant don't need the emphatic display of you being correct. wink.gif
I use PTFE tape. I don't abuse it. Wrap til it covers the end of the tape, just a mm or two more an that's all you need. Make sure to stretch the tape as you apply it and it should fill any gap left in the production process. Nothing is 100% on spec. There is a margin of error in the tolerances and just cause it fits like it's supposed to by feel doesn't mean that it fits like it's supposed to by spec.
Anyway, not tryin ta be argumentative with you B. Hope that's not how you're taking my input here. mellowsmiley.gif
~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
It was a bit large....apologies.
I am acutely aware that information we give must be correct as some people use us a resource,incorrect info costs money to somebody....as it has cost me before (max voltage....i went over it....by a long way...cost me dear)....i dont mean to come off all rabid.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Thanks for clearing that up. I'm at work the computer I'm using blocks ppcs.com and swiftech.com. I didn't notice any difference when hooked up to the controller or the psu directly. I did find it too loud and very hard to purge (even in mode #4) so I switched back to the DDC 3.2. Plus I like the compact size of the DDC. I did get a DD D5 which I'm sure is no different than the oem D5.

DDC's have the edge with restrictive loops,D5's are more for flowing loops...unless you rock a 24v. if you could marry a DDC impeller with a D5 motor.....i wonder.....
Do you have the heat issues which seem to arise with them? I use D5's purely for that reason,replaced too many laing boards for those DIY boards for people and always see the same damage.
If a D5 is loud,try remounting the pump top,sometimes this is a cure...mine is on silicone washers,bolted to my bench,although my kazes may be drowning it out..
Edited by B NEGATIVE - 5/2/12 at 2:53pm
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