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post #25851 of 105801
So i was planning out what fittings and extenders i need for my build and when i looking at one of my fans attached to my h80 i noticed water residue on the fan, this isnt normal right? the h80 is not supposed to sweat right? i checked below to make sure it wasn't dripping and thank god it wasn't. so what are your thoughts on this? is it nfg now?

20120819_124811.jpg
20120819_124818.jpg
20120819_124832.jpg
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post #25852 of 105801
take it out of the system and run just the H80 on its own to see if you can find a leak, where we see people getting leaks most often is where the screws for the fan go in , they usually have screws that are too long and puncture the rad.. Obviously you would usually have seen that a while ago but its worth taking a look , if its the rad you can get an epoxy and fix it , if its around the tubing you can do the same just make sure the line is twisted the way you want because odds are it wont spin anymore . Dont give up hope though , its usually not much of a leak as long as you caught it before you lost too much liquid .
    
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post #25853 of 105801
Quote:
Originally Posted by simonfredette View Post

take it out of the system and run just the H80 on its own to see if you can find a leak, where we see people getting leaks most often is where the screws for the fan go in , they usually have screws that are too long and puncture the rad.. Obviously you would usually have seen that a while ago but its worth taking a look , if its the rad you can get an epoxy and fix it , if its around the tubing you can do the same just make sure the line is twisted the way you want because odds are it wont spin anymore . Dont give up hope though , its usually not much of a leak as long as you caught it before you lost too much liquid .

i dunno alot of work to do that, i would need to removed my mobo to remove two of the screws, might just chance it and hold it off for 3weeks and hope this pos lasts till i get my final watercooling parts and then throw this out...
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post #25854 of 105801
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qu1ckset View Post

i dunno alot of work to do that, i would need to removed my mobo to remove two of the screws, might just chance it and hold it off for 3weeks and hope this pos lasts till i get my final watercooling parts and then throw this out...

sounds like a plan , keep an eye on your temps , might even want to lower you overclock in case the cooler fails
    
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post #25855 of 105801
I have tons of angled fittings in my rig (over $200 worth) because clean runs were a priority and some spots were too tight for straight fittings. In fact, I think there is only 3 straight fittings in the loop and 2 of those are connecting a T-connector to my drain tap.

post #25856 of 105801
Quote:
Originally Posted by Egameman View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElGreco View Post

Have you considered checking highflow.nl?
The prices in Europe are considerably higher than in USA, but also posting/tax fees make it almost even if you consider to buy from USA...


up, I saved around 20 dollars, so not much tongue.gif

Another question ,

Is the EK ddc x-res 100 with the same top as the normal ek ddc v2 top ?

Or is it better to buy only the v2 top, and for example a bitspower z 80 res with a male to male fitting ?

My poroblem is I'm not got to decide this stuff:P so I can buy a d5 and tank for it, and stick with my barbs, or I can buy a new ddc top and res, and buy compression fittings:P

Would I gain temp.drop by using a D5 with more L/ph ?

And would it be strong enough for 5 x 40 degreee adapters and one 90 degreee ?



aaah...If only I was a millionaire so I could buy it all tongue.gif

I believe it is the same tube but not having one I cannot say for sure. I went with a FrozenQ Res and went with a Male/Male fitting. If you go this route make sure to get a solid M/M rotary fitting. Makes it a little easier to get a leak free seal. wink.gif

*Edit* I believe you need an adapter ring for the V2 if you go the EK Res Route. Eddy is a greedy bastage he should have a premade unit so us guys with V2 don't have to spend more money to get a clean look. rolleyes.gif

Go comps. Much cleaner looking and a leak free seal if you do it the right way. I suggest DDC but you're not in the States where you can get the cheapest DDCs', so either way works. thumb.gif

@Qu1ckset... +1 for what simon is suggesting. Definitely looks like a screw mounted too far up in that top left location. frown.gif


~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
Edited by Ceadderman - 8/19/12 at 10:26am
 
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post #25857 of 105801
Quote:
Originally Posted by Majin SSJ Eric View Post

I have tons of angled fittings in my rig (over $200 worth) because clean runs were a priority and some spots were too tight for straight fittings. In fact, I think there is only 3 straight fittings in the loop and 2 of those are connecting a T-connector to my drain tap. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

just priced out the fittings i need, and its going to cost me $240 before shipping
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post #25858 of 105801
Yep they're not cheap for sure but totally worth it to get the build right...
post #25859 of 105801
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

I believe it is the same tube but not having one I cannot say for sure. I went with a FrozenQ Res and went with a Male/Male fitting. If you go this route make sure to get a solid M/M rotary fitting. Makes it a little easier to get a leak free seal. wink.gif
@Qu1ckset... +1 for what simon is suggesting. Definitely looks like a screw mounted too far up in that top left location. frown.gif
~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

temps are still running strong 34degress on my 4.6ghz 2500k
are the fluids used in the h80 conductive?
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post #25860 of 105801
Are you sure that residue on your fans is even wet? I have a very similar looking residue on my H80 fans but its been there since I first set it up last February. Must have been left over from manufacturing...
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