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OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery - Page 2714

post #27131 of 105811
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrix View Post

Easy access drain between outside pump and bottom rad, I just thread in a fitting with tubing attached. Click for larger pics.

New translucent gray/ white front cover for the Switch:

Built or bought front cover?

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
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post #27132 of 105811
Quote:
Originally Posted by samoth777 View Post

Guys, I should have my parts soon including 2 radiators -
the HardwareLabs Black Ice GT Stealth 240mm XFLOW
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Hardware-Labs-Black-Ice-GT-Stealth-240mm-XFLOW-Radiator--GTS240-XFLOW-pid-13600.html
and the EK XT 240
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/radiators-fans-accessories/radiators/ek-coolstram-xt/ek-coolstream-rad-xt-240.html.
The BlackIce has 30 FPI fin density and the XT has 11 FPI. The XT is thicker by 17mm at 47mm thick. I have a pair of Corsair SP120 high performance fans, amongst a bunch of other random fans. In terms of maximizing its high static pressure potential, which rad should I have my high static pressure SP120s on?
cool.gif

You should use your higher static pressure fan on the denser FPI of (Black Ice) your two rads, the thicker the FPI the more CFM/static pressure is needed to push the air through.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Emissary of Pain View Post

what is the main difference between the FPI of a thick rad or a thin rad ... (apart from the obvious, there are more or less fins)
How is the cooling performance of the Magicool Dual 180

Simple -Lower FPI means you are able to use lower speed fans (still with good CFM/Static pressure) in order to get good cooling results-this in turn means less noise.

Higher FPI rads have a denser FPI and so in turn need more powerful fans(higher CFM/static pressure & speed)

A very good all round powerful and quiet at the same time fan, is the Scythe Gentle Typhoon range

Thickness of a rad is generally believed to help with the cooling process more because there is a larger area over which the heat can dissipate

Check out this link for some good info:http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/14/360-radiator-shootout-summary/ ignore the fact that its about 360 rads, were dealing with your FPI query here wink.gif

Also have a read about fans, it will help you understand CFM/static pressure and the role it plays in conjunction with radiators in the cooling process

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2009/05/05/r2-fan-testing/ and

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/07/r10-fan-testing-bitfenixnoctuasilenxnoiseblockerphobya/

and just in case the next question is about fan orientation ie Push vs Pull check here thumb.gif :

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/
Edited by kkorky - 9/11/12 at 11:56am
post #27133 of 105811
Quote:
Originally Posted by sortableturnip View Post


Ok...what am I looking at here...headscratch.gif

Bottom of a new Aqua Computer tube res. The res has that clear plate in the bottom to prevent bubbles from entering the loop if you use the fountain effect. The three small holes on the left and right are for LED's to light up the res. Large holes are fill / drain. Brass tube down the middle hold the glass res in place and allows for the fountain effect if you use the middle G1/4 hole.
post #27134 of 105811


I saw this gear a while ago-being an Aquacomputer xt ultra user, im seriously thinking of swapping out my pump for the new aquacomputer D5 version, that way i would be able to mod my pump with a new head, and a Bitspower 'Bling' body-it will of course still enable me to keep on using my aquasuite software which is brilliant. whilst also increasing overall pump pressure.

As for the Reservoirs, im not sure as yet, i need to get feedback on the amount of noise the fountain 'trickle' effect makes.

Great gear though.
post #27135 of 105811
Thanks all for the helpful answers! smile.gif
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post #27136 of 105811
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alatar View Post

Been ages since I last posted some pics in here so here's some recent and random shots: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Hardcore cooling, I saw your temperature screenshot in the one mil post thread, whoa thumb.gif
post #27137 of 105811
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emissary of Pain View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by kcuestag View Post

I have used the Magicool Dual 180mm and it does GREAT, could easily handle your i5 2500k @ 4.8GHz and that GTX560.
I now use the Magicool Triple 180mm since I added both GTX680's to the loop, both rads are great and they work nicely with fans at low speed!

I am actually using your build log as a reference ... haha ... I was going to PM u and ask you for some info but seems I couldn't order my WC stuff (price is ridiculous) I thought I would hold back on the PM until later ...

Could you fit the side panel on without modding your motherboard tray like in that YT vid by Time to live customs (or something like that)

Too bad you didn't decide on what to get a few weeks ago. I could have brought the stuff down. I'm actually down in you neck of the woods now and leave tomorrow.
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post #27138 of 105811
Hey, does anyone know the FPI of the Phobya Xtreme 200mm rad?
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post #27139 of 105811
Quote:
Originally Posted by RKTGX95 View Post

Hey, does anyone know the FPI of the Phobya Xtreme 200mm rad?

8 FPI

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Phobya-Xtreme-200mm-Radiator-pid-11843.html
post #27140 of 105811
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCModderMike View Post

Hardcore cooling, I saw your temperature screenshot in the one mil post thread, whoa thumb.gif

Doesn't stay that low at load though. :/ Or well I can keep load temps at 0C at 4.5ghz or below.

at 5ghz+ this starts happening: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

The evap still keeps around -33C. Closer to -30C when you get near to the 5.2-5.3 max stable stuff.
 
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Benching
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