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post #28981 of 105871
Quote:
Originally Posted by steelkevin View Post

OH ! I thought you were talking about the rear and front 120s, my bad.
Well my GPU gets REALLY hot. By that I mean it goes up to 77° while playing BF3 which is totally insane, I used to get 60/65 max before watercooling (but as you can see here it was empty). And I thought that pulling air through the top of the case into the top rad would make the case temps even higher and heat the GPU even more.
And the top rad is fixed in place hanging on the fans so flipping them would mean taking the rad off... I guess I'll put the case on its side and flip the top rad fans to intake and the rear one back to out take.

Before you go to that much trouble, first try swapping direction on the front fan and rear fans only.

Make the front an intake, and the rear an exhaust.

What you have now seems like it's working as 2 local air flow loops, where what comes in at the bottom is mostly pulled out the front, and what pushes in from the rear is pulled out the top.

There's almost no flow between the upper portion of the case and the lower portion, especially across the GPU.

That's causing the GPU to heat the air under it and then that air isn't being moved away.

With the front fan as intake, it'll help push the air back towards the GPU to give it some fresher air.

With the rear as an exhaust, it'll help pull that heated air from around the GPU up and out.


Darlene
Edited by IT Diva - 10/7/12 at 6:50am
post #28982 of 105871
Quote:
Originally Posted by socketus View Post

@ micronccr345 - Whose build is that ? I don't think I've seen it till now - I like that loop, would like to know more bout its loop, specifically the 2 hoses going thru the right panel roof.
Thanks! I build it for a friend. Check out my sig for the link.
Quote:
Originally Posted by _REAPER_ View Post

What size tubes are these
7/16" x 5/8" over 1/2 Barbs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCModderMike View Post

Looks very good and clean. Makes me want to water cool my 600T again, this time trying a 200mm rad in the front. Seems it's becoming more popular.
That's a build he did for a friend of his. The log his in is sig, but here ya go http://www.overclock.net/t/1222267/nzxt-switch-810-420-280-build#post_16584694-My-NZXT%20Switch%20810-420/280-Build.html
Thanks bud! thumb.gif
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post #28983 of 105871
Quote:
Originally Posted by ginger_nuts View Post

It is not that them fans are bad or anything, they jus typically have poor static pressure and some times also poor cfm.
Also stop worrying about idle temps. They do not mean much at all. For instance AMD chips do not start showing near true temps till they reach about 40 or so celsius.
......
post #28984 of 105871
Quote:
Originally Posted by steelkevin View Post

Ok then definitely just paranoid, thanks tongue.gif.
Well if those noctua fans shouldn't be used on rads / aren't meant for rads could that explain higher temps ?
the TIM is Ceramic 2 (couldn't afford any and all I had was overpriced CM rubbish left overs and an empty NT-H1 syringe). I used the Rice grain method (and added two tiny dots on each side of it, looked like a "christian" cross, no offense, I don't know the proper word and couldn't explain it). The Block is finger tight.
I'm glad nobody came up with "you might have air in your loop" btw. Because there is no way I do. The loop ran externally for half a day and I moved everything several times in every possible way to get every last bubble out and once I put it all in the case I tilted it to be sure and all).
EDIT: this is how my fans are set now (no filter on the front one any more btw)

EDIT2: Just downlaod RealTemp and look at the temps reported by HWMonitor Pro and RealTemp simultaneously

I always trusted HWMonitor...

HW monitor isn't recommended for monitoring temps. It usually reports 'off'' values. Real Temp and Core Temp are still much better and recommended to use.
post #28985 of 105871
Quote:
Originally Posted by tezza192 View Post

My 600t, first crack at watercooling smile.gif
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Asus Z77 Deluxe MB Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





man, that is so clean build! nice one!
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post #28986 of 105871
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Before you go to that much trouble, first try swapping direction on the front fan and rear fans only.
Make the front an intake, and the rear an exhaust.
What you have now seems like it's working as 2 local air flow loops, where what comes in at the bottom is mostly pulled out the front, and what pushes in from the rear is pulled out the top.
There's almost no flow between the upper portion of the case and the lower portion, especially across the GPU.
That's causing the GPU to heat the air under it and then that air isn't being moved away.
With the front fan as intake, it'll help push the air back towards the GPU to give it some fresher air.
With the rear as an exhaust, it'll help pull that heated air from around the GPU up and out.
Darlene
They were like that to start with (as you might be able to see on the old photo where I added arrows).
But since my GPU temps were 75° with BF3 I thought flipping the front fan would pull the bottom rad's hot air straight out instead of heating up the GPU. Idle temps dropped but apperently load temps went up 2°.
I flipped the rear fan like an hour after (ok, maybe it was a day, can't remember) because I figured that it was pulling the air out and not leaving much for the rad so flipping it would give the rad some cool air.
Flipping that fan didn't change anything at all. Neither GPU nor CPU temps.

That being said, I've got 2 200mm NZXT fans in the cupboard and I could just put one on the side but I'll eventually put a window and I don't want to get used to having the side one (actually I'll make the window once my GPU is underwater, I might even wait untill I get a pretty mobo and all so I guess I could add a side fan but I don't really care about that GPU, if anything I actually want it to fail so I can RMA it and get a normal card as replacement if not even a new Gen one once their out of 560 Ti).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali Man View Post

HW monitor isn't recommended for monitoring temps. It usually reports 'off'' values. Real Temp and Core Temp are still much better and recommended to use.

Yeah, sadly, I just got confirmation of that:

HWMonitor Pro always displayed 54/52/52/54 (after an hour, two or twelve of Prime95). Those temps were after only an hour of Prime.

one went up to 57°, stock load temps on a 50€ heatsink would probably be something like 60/70, right ? There's no way two 280mm rads should perform around 60° / the same as a good air cooler.
I'll start Prime tomorrow morning before going to school and will see if the temps reach 60 with RealTemp...


So, To Do:
-Flip the rear and front fan.
-Take the top rad off and flip its fans.
-Install a side 200mm fan (intake ?)
-Maybe remount the CPU.
-And switch the bottom rad's straight fitting for the spare 45°.

I doubt I'll do the forth and I'm almost sure I won't do the fith today.



EDIT: @Fonne, just spent some time looking at every rig I could find in signatures (build logs) or photos directly posted here. Most of them had their top rad taking the case's air and throwing it out of the case. Maybe they all made the same mistake as I but why wouldn't people have spread the word by now ?
I'm not saying you're wrong but I find weird that so less people would do the right thing.
Edited by steelkevin - 10/7/12 at 8:41am
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post #28987 of 105871
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fonne View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Was asked to make a top to some old cobber bottoms, so they could work again ... This is just a prototype, still need some changes (Dont have all the dimensions)
Was done a little fast, but turned out pretty well ... My FIRST watercooling part that I have made, its fun biggrin.gif
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

(Its not made to be a killer performer, but just simple and easy/fast to make)
You're an creative engineer!
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Any one know more about this guy?:

http://koolance.com/pmp-500-pump-g-1-4-bsp
7.5m of head pressure thinking.gif
Yeah cool, but i wondering why koolance still selling [D5+ Reservoirs] Drive Bay Bay for D5 PUMP? C'mon...
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post #28988 of 105871
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by steelkevin View Post

They were like that to start with (as you might be able to see on the old photo where I added arrows).
But since my GPU temps were 75° with BF3 I thought flipping the front fan would pull the bottom rad's hot air straight out instead of heating up the GPU. Idle temps dropped but apperently load temps went up 2°.
I flipped the rear fan like an hour after (ok, maybe it was a day, can't remember) because I figured that it was pulling the air out and not leaving much for the rad so flipping it would give the rad some cool air.
Flipping that fan didn't change anything at all. Neither GPU nor CPU temps.
That being said, I've got 2 200mm NZXT fans in the cupboard and I could just put one on the side but I'll eventually put a window and I don't want to get used to having the side one (actually I'll make the window once my GPU is underwater, I might even wait untill I get a pretty mobo and all so I guess I could add a side fan but I don't really care about that GPU, if anything I actually want it to fail so I can RMA it and get a normal card as replacement if not even a new Gen one once their out of 560 Ti).
Yeah, sadly, I just got confirmation of that:

HWMonitor Pro always displayed 54/52/52/54 (after an hour, two or twelve of Prime95). Those temps were after only an hour of Prime.
one went up to 57°, stock load temps on a 50€ heatsink would probably be something like 60/70, right ? There's no way two 280mm rads should perform around 60° / the same as a good air cooler.
I'll start Prime tomorrow morning before going to school and will see if the temps reach 60 with RealTemp...
So, To Do:
-Flip the rear and front fan.
-Take the top rad off and flip its fans.
-Install a side 200mm fan (intake ?)
-Maybe remount the CPU.
-And switch the bottom rad's straight fitting for the spare 45°.
I doubt I'll do the forth and I'm almost sure I won't do the fith today.
EDIT: @Fonne, just spent some time looking at every rig I could find in signatures (build logs) or photos directly posted here. Most of them had their top rad taking the case's air and throwing it out of the case. Maybe they all made the same mistake as I but why wouldn't people have spread the word by now ?
I'm not saying you're wrong but I find weird that so less people would do the right thing.

I have all my rads as intakes and one 120 as an exhaust.

Positive pressure FTW...less dust also.
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post #28989 of 105871
Quote:
Originally Posted by GAMERIG View Post

You're an creative engineer!.

Thanks thumb.gif ... Really nice to get some positive feedback on that first watercooling part that I made myself - Would just love to make more cooling / modding stuff to the community in the future ...
post #28990 of 105871
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

I have all my rads as intakes and one 120 as an exhaust.
Positive pressure FTW...less dust also.

Wouldn't having everything as intake block some air in the center of the case (not sure what would happen then, maybe an air explosion or a black hole tongue.gif) ?
I can see how having every fan exhausting would reduce dust (because it'd be pushing dust away before it even gets a chance to enter) but wouldn't pulling air in pull dust in from every possible are in the case too ? Maybe that's what would happen with the blocked air, a huge dust ball would just be floating in the middle of your case ^^.


Btw, I flipped my front fan and added the dust filter, flipped my rear one and added a 200mm side fan as intake. I haven't done any testing but it doesn't feel like it made any difference. I don't want to play BF3 right now but I guess I just have to xD.
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