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post #29941 of 106076
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

There's no one answer. Everyone can tell you a specific pump is better and quieter. Before this gets ugly, based on my experience, a ddc 3.2 is my choice for balanced performance and acoustics. Let the arguments begin! thumb.gifbiggrin.giftongue.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by jellis142 View Post

Would you be comfortable under-volting? If yes, he's right, there are far too many to choose from. It comes down more to performance and price, a good controller can bring a pump down to near inaudible if it's mounted correctly. I can only hear a faint hum at 100% on my MCP-655, but it's bolted to the frame, nill vibration tongue.gif

Oh I didnt know it would have been such a thing.... Then I better give some more information first.

I have a small loop with MCP 350 right now and it is not too loud but my rig is sitting beside me so it is there but I was wondering if there is anything quieter out on the market. As I said it is a small loop with 2 GPU max, cpu, 240, and maybe a 120 rad, and the res so I dont need tons of performance nor and I looking for tons as my goal is to build a silent as possible rig. I have heard many good things about the MCP-655 however it might be too big for my size restrictions, but nonetheless it is still an option. I am not too sure what you mean by a good controller? Could you elaborate a tiny bit for me please? And I will take a look at the ddc 3.2 as well. Thanks for your help so far and I hope this narrows things down a bit thumb.gif
    
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post #29942 of 106076
RE: Pump Jingway 1200 pump. 12V 1.8A (AKA: EK-DCP 4.0 Pump and Danger Den DD-CPX-Pro) (circa 2009, but never used)
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

Do your self a favor if you like a quiet PC and stay away from that pump. I hated mine, even running it at it's lowest RPM it is loud and not a very pleasant noise.

NO joke, I wish I had avoided this pump, I can not quiet it down enough to make it worth the while of building the rest of the loop.
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post #29943 of 106076
Quote:
Originally Posted by NostraD View Post

Durelene made it from Sidewinder today, so I started working a loop and doing some leak testing:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



iPhone pics - all I had available thumb.gif

looking good. just installed the dura in my amd rig with the same cpu waterblock. i had to ground the block flat not sure if it made a difference. but the loop is holding up even at 4GHz unlocked - not bad for $20 thumbsupsmiley.png. i love the look of those fittings.
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post #29944 of 106076
Is starting to draw my own waterblock, and hope that you can help ... This is just a fast example, but hope you can see the idea ...



The block size are the same, but will 1 or 2 be best ? ... 1 is made with a 4mm mill, and go 6mm down (Maybe 8mm). 2 is made with a 1.5mm mill that can only go 4mm down, but got the center piece.

What "design" way should I go with ?
post #29945 of 106076
2 - It has more surface area.
post #29946 of 106076
Quote:
Originally Posted by ginger_nuts View Post

Mine I will be connecting mine to my Lamptron FC-2, 45w per channel baby thumbsupsmiley.png
She be right thumb.gif
Side question:
What is a second hand XSPC pump/res. 750 + Rasa block + XSPC tubing (2 meters, 6.5 ft) and 6x XSPC black chrome fittings worth?
All new here in Australia is approx. $142 + shipping
That will do it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Anyone that connects a pump to a mobo header is off their head anyway....
That pump is probably a new design,Laing are funny when it comes to licensing their products...i can't see them letting Koolance modify them to that extent.
I will let you know when mine appears,the first thing it will get is a strip down.
Great. Keep us posted.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hanoverfist View Post

Like B states here, you would have to be Nuts to Run this Pump or Any Pump on a Header off the Board. A Lamptron will be Running the Show with This One.
Sure, but you know how that goes....."it's got a 3 pin so I thought I would just plug it in...." lol.

I got the SM8 rig fired up yesterday, got Windows loaded on SSD RAID. Everything looking good until I noticed I had the HDMI plugged into the top card (setup is r-atx so second card is on top).
Anyway I plugged the cable into the other card, refired the machine, and, nothing. No video. Got to drain the loop, pull the tubing and see if I fubar'd a slot when I was fiddling with the Aqualink pipes between the cards. Got my fingers crossed, wasn't planning on a new board until Haswell. mad.gif
It's the card I've been running on another machine a few months, not the new one so I know I didn't muck up anything with the water block install. Basically the same cards with the same EK blocks so pretty much got to be the slot. Arrrrrgh.
Edited by mandrix - 10/21/12 at 3:47am
post #29947 of 106076
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fonne View Post

Is starting to draw my own waterblock, and hope that you can help ... This is just a fast example, but hope you can see the idea ...

The block size are the same, but will 1 or 2 be best ? ... 1 is made with a 4mm mill, and go 6mm down (Maybe 8mm). 2 is made with a 1.5mm mill that can only go 4mm down, but got the center piece.
What "design" way should I go with ?

Like mentioned above 2 will be better.

If there is any chance of making that middle piece in a swiggly line, that would yield better results and not increase the pressure drop much.

Circle's and curves have more surface area then 90 degree bends.
post #29948 of 106076
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fonne View Post

Is starting to draw my own waterblock, and hope that you can help ... This is just a fast example, but hope you can see the idea ...

The block size are the same, but will 1 or 2 be best ? ... 1 is made with a 4mm mill, and go 6mm down (Maybe 8mm). 2 is made with a 1.5mm mill that can only go 4mm down, but got the center piece.
What "design" way should I go with ?

Neither,you need to make it wider than the bore of the fitting to keep the flow up,you need to manufacture a sealing channel for the o-ring,you also need to look at the base thickness,mounts and how you are going to mount the top...

Block 2 is the worst out of the 2 there,that center fin has just crippled the flow rate..4mm is less than half of what you need and example 2 has around 2mm bore with that center fin,you need to flatten the bore out so you get the maximum surface area closest the heat source. Example 8mm x 3mm..the 8mm side being closest to the heatsource.

Maybe get a loop together before designing parts,it will get you a better feel for how it all works.
Edited by B NEGATIVE - 10/21/12 at 5:37am
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post #29949 of 106076
Hey Hey, Not been on here in months.

Well anyway just looked through the past 800 pages i missed and im impressed!

My new loop teaser with a home made attachment block for a DCII block:
20120616_202110.jpg
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post #29950 of 106076
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarnix View Post

Wow, your tubing looks so crystal clear... thumb.gif

Yeah, I'm loving this Durelene! It looks great! Of course you can't beat the price!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdr09 View Post

looking good. just installed the dura in my amd rig with the same cpu waterblock. i had to ground the block flat not sure if it made a difference. but the loop is holding up even at 4GHz unlocked - not bad for $20 thumbsupsmiley.png. i love the look of those fittings.

Thanks! I love this little block. I have tried a few others, but I like the aesthetic of this one. The temps are great, so I can't see any reason to change it. It goes really well with my new monsoon chrome fittings too wink.gif One of the blocks I haven't tried but would like to is the Koolance CPU-360 or 370. They have a similar aesthetic, but not as polished and shiny. This will work for now though. I just spent a few bucks with DWOOD for some custom pieces for this rig, so I am budgeted out atm. redface.gif
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