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post #30821 of 106735
Since the outlet of the XSPC d5 dual bay is on the top after any substantial amount of air is bled through the fillport of that res, you are almost instantly at a water level below your output port. If you have a top mounted rad this makes it even more of a pain as you have to not only pump water up, you have to convince the air up in that rad to come back down. This means you need to consistently maintain a water level above the outlet port. The easiest way around this is ensuring your res is the highest point of your loop, which is not something I recomend doing with the cap off, but that is what makes it such a slow and painful process....

By filling a 250 ml tube res and then filling the ~300 ml bay res I then have more then enough to fill my tubes and the bay res. I have both ports of the 250 ml tube res on the bottom, this allows me to remove a cap from the tube res and let air out of my loop. If I used a top port on the tube I would be back to square 1, as I would also have maintain a water level high enough to fill the 250 ml res. BUT by using bottom ports I have ensured that by the time both my reservoirs and whatever water makes it into the tube is filled is a greater volume than the air trapped in my upper rad and tubes(that can't be fed by gravity).

You can control the water level in the tube res by choosing when to cap it. If I wanted it completely full I would simply uncap it and gravity would fill it, deceptively fast when using a hex key left handed frown.gif I left mine with a small gap and then finished by topping the bay res to "recommended" level.

Hope this helps if not thumb.gif cause you know more about it than I did when I started out.

Also sorry if it seems like a wall of text.
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post #30822 of 106735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickles View Post

Since the outlet of the XSPC d5 dual bay is on the top after any substantial amount of air is bled through the fillport of that res, you are almost instantly at a water level below your output port. If you have a top mounted rad this makes it even more of a pain as you have to not only pump water up, you have to convince the air up in that rad to come back down. This means you need to consistently maintain a water level above the outlet port.
That's just not true. The outlet port is indeed on the top, but the port from res -> pump is towards the bottom.
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post #30823 of 106735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arm3nian View Post


I have these fittings http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_614&products_id=22626
And this tubing http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_292&products_id=23370
How much of a gap should there be between the ring and the fitting? Thanks

There should be 1/8" gap or just under that. Not ¼" as stated by morencyam

If you tube is ½" id and ¾" od then then the wall thickness is 1/8".Because there is a wall thinkness on each side of the tube.

 

1/8 + 1/2 + 1/8 = 3/4

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post #30824 of 106735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hooded View Post

There should be 1/8" gap or just under that. Not ¼" as stated by morencyam
If you tube is ½" id and ¾" od then then the wall thickness is 1/8".Because there is a wall thinkness on each side of the tube.

1/8 + 1/2 + 1/8 = 3/4
doh.gif my mistake. I always forget to compensate for the second wall. Thanks for pointing that out Hooded thumb.gif
post #30825 of 106735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michalius View Post

That's just not true. The outlet port is indeed on the top, but the port from res -> pump is towards the bottom.



My pump sucks too much air like that, thus bringing me back to more problems.
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post #30826 of 106735
Quote:
Originally Posted by jassilamba View Post

Switch 810 is what I would recommend, as you can fit even fit a 360 (35mm thickness) without any issues top and full thickness 240 in the bottom in push pull. And all that without cutting or changing anything.

i never doubted the 810's excellence in WC or anything, i am just doubting it would fir because: A) its the non SE (aka FINGER PRINTS!!!) one, and B) lacks some style (a bit plain) IMO for the task. other than that i agree that its the best choice out there. (also, i think you could mount a Monsta 80mm rad with only pull in it)
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post #30827 of 106735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickles View Post


My pump sucks too much air like that, thus bringing me back to more problems.
What you don't understand is that there are two chambers. One is the actual reservor, the other is the pump area. The outlet from reservoir to pump area is towards the bottom third of the reservoir. It doesn't matter if the water level is below the PUMP outlet, the only thing that matters is the reservoir to pump outlet, which is different than what you are illustrating.
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post #30828 of 106735
Quote:
Originally Posted by RKTGX95 View Post

i never doubted the 810's excellence in WC or anything, i am just doubting it would fir because: A) its the non SE (aka FINGER PRINTS!!!) one, and B) lacks some style (a bit plain) IMO for the task. other than that i agree that its the best choice out there. (also, i think you could mount a Monsta 80mm rad with only pull in it)

Yah, the Switch 810 has 90mm of space till you hit that first rom bay plate. The Phantom 820 has only 70mm space between the top of the case rad mount and the mobo top, as referenced by OC3D at the 22-23min mark.
Edited by socketus - 11/1/12 at 12:47pm
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post #30829 of 106735
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Talking of which,its Leaktest day!!!
Qei51.jpg
A little more tweaking of the tube to do and some touch-ups on the fittings also.

please tell me what fittings did you use! I LOVE the black finish on them
post #30830 of 106735
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Talking of which,its Leaktest day!!!
Qei51.jpg
A little more tweaking of the tube to do and some touch-ups on the fittings also.

where is the detail on how you mounted the triple rad? (WE NEED TO SEE IT, FOR THE SAKE OF WC)
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