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post #31031 of 107781
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Or Dual DDC-1Ts'?
I think it's all relative really.. It depends on how big your loop is and how many restrictions by what you can afford and whether your billfold can weather the storm.
Two DDC 1T with EK Dual DDC v2 top alone is about $115. That's the cheapest you're gonna get off with.
Dual 35x and same top you're looking at $165 or more
Dual D5 and EK Dual D5 top you're looking at better than $200
And that's before you add dress up kits for any of them.
But really at this point only Dual D5 is more for blingage factor imho. They are reliable but they damned well better be at the higher price and lets face it we're water coolers price really isn't a concern. Not even to guys like me who had to piecemeal everything together. Some of us get lucky with good friends to help out, some of us pay whatever the cost will be and chalk it up as eye candy.
My personal thought here is go cheapest because 2 pumps should handle most anything you throw at them. If they can't you have a blockage somewhars in the loop. biggrin.gif lol
~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Cheers for the reply Ceaddarman. Will be originally be cooling a 3820 (Waiting for IB-E), dual 7970's (with a mind of going triple 8970's when they ship), with 480 and 360 rads, so will I need two pumps to maintain a decent flowrate?
post #31032 of 107781
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickles View Post

Both, the bore is the inside. Bore of the fitting and / or bore of the thread. Is the paint coming off the only the outside of the threads or inside the fitting as well??
Lots more pics pls.

This ^^

I thought it looked like the bores were peeling myself.
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post #31033 of 107781
one of the first shots of my loop:



full build here (in progress but getting close!): Compact Splash
 
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post #31034 of 107781
Quote:
Originally Posted by s0up2up View Post

Cheers for the reply Ceaddarman. Will be originally be cooling a 3820 (Waiting for IB-E), dual 7970's (with a mind of going triple 8970's when they ship), with 480 and 360 rads, so will I need two pumps to maintain a decent flowrate?

In my sig is a link to what you can roughly expect from pumps.
post #31035 of 107781
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arm3nian View Post


My new loop, I like it much better than my previous. I mounted the pump on the motherboard back cover, since it is easily removable and screw-up proof. I drilled 2 holes, put 2 motherboard screws in and used 2 standoffs as a nut to tighten it from the back LOL.
Anyways, it goes res>pump>cpu>rad>gpu>rad>res. I will take a higher quality photo with my camera once im done, I used my phone for this as it is beta stage.
Is there any particular way to bleed with a bay res? When I start my pump there is a flushing sound, I am guessing that is the air. How should I bleed it, tilt the case back and forth? Also, how should I play with the pump speed, goes from 1-5. And should I leave the res cap on when bleeding? One more thing, how will I know when there is no air left, or at least most of it is gone. Thanks before hand.

hey man. firstly it looks like the tube coming from ur res to ur pump goes up before it gets to the pump. you want that tube to be at least level, if not angled down toward the pump, so the res is feeding the pump via gravity. this will ensure the pump have fluid in it and will help with bleeding. Also, *** are you doing with a bay res in that case?!? you have all that room man get a massive tube res and have it direct feeding your pump!!! youll get rid of all that tubing between pump and res and itll look cleaner and work alot better.
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post #31036 of 107781
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arm3nian View Post


My new loop, I like it much better than my previous. I mounted the pump on the motherboard back cover, since it is easily removable and screw-up proof. I drilled 2 holes, put 2 motherboard screws in and used 2 standoffs as a nut to tighten it from the back LOL.
Anyways, it goes res>pump>cpu>rad>gpu>rad>res. I will take a higher quality photo with my camera once im done, I used my phone for this as it is beta stage.
Is there any particular way to bleed with a bay res? When I start my pump there is a flushing sound, I am guessing that is the air. How should I bleed it, tilt the case back and forth? Also, how should I play with the pump speed, goes from 1-5. And should I leave the res cap on when bleeding? One more thing, how will I know when there is no air left, or at least most of it is gone. Thanks before hand.

 

More room than you know what to do with LOL

 

I would a gree that the pump should be feed by gravity.

 

I don't understand why you would run striaght from your pump to your cpu. Your loop would run cooler longer if you went from the Pump - Rad - GPU - Rad - CPU - Res - Pump. Right now your taking the heat from your pump ad dumping into your CPU block.

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post #31037 of 107781
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hooded View Post

More room than you know what to do with LOL

I would a gree that the pump should be feed by gravity.

I don't understand why you would run striaght from your pump to your cpu. Your loop would run cooler longer if you went from the Pump - Rad - GPU - Rad - CPU - Res - Pump. Right now your taking the heat from your pump ad dumping into your CPU block.

I am pretty sure it has been stated a million times around here that loop order does not affect temps.
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post #31038 of 107781

Guys I have another question. I have the return line from the last radgoing to the top of my cylinder res. Now my dilema is this when I shut it offI hear the rads gurgeling as the water runs down the line and into the res and air replaces the water. Every time I start my rig up it takes a few seconds for the air to be pushed back out of it. Is that dangerous for my pump? Should I turn my res around and just run the return to the bottom of the res or can I just fill the res fully to the top so there is no air at all in it? Any help with this be apreciated. Thanks in advance to anyone that helps also.

 

Here's a pic of my build so you can get an idea what I'm talking about. (I know the top half of my psu cover isn't on. That's because I'm still doing some work on it and rather wait till I'm somewhat done to reinstall it)

 

20121029_103351.jpg

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post #31039 of 107781
Quote:
Originally Posted by s0up2up View Post

Cheers for the reply Ceaddarman. Will be originally be cooling a 3820 (Waiting for IB-E), dual 7970's (with a mind of going triple 8970's when they ship), with 480 and 360 rads, so will I need two pumps to maintain a decent flowrate?

Yesterday I was cleaning my stuff out so I got all my hardware and linked it up on my bed. I had two EK Supreme HFs with restrictive plates in them and 3 large radiators. Loads of flow from my dual 355's and when you fire up the second pump you can really see the difference in flow rate.

You'll be fine with two DDC's.
post #31040 of 107781
Quote:
Originally Posted by s0up2up View Post

Cheers for the reply Ceaddarman. Will be originally be cooling a 3820 (Waiting for IB-E), dual 7970's (with a mind of going triple 8970's when they ship), with 480 and 360 rads, so will I need two pumps to maintain a decent flowrate?

I ran an XSPC raystrom and three full cover 7970 blocks in series with a single 355. Worked just fine.
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i5 3570k Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H MSI TF3 7950 Tri-fire Samsung 30nm 4x4GB 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Intel 320 160GB and a few samsung platters Windows7 x64 Catleap Q270 Rosewill mechanical 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair AX850 Xigmatek Elysium Razer Deathadder Puretrak talent 
Audio
Xonar Essence STX 
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Reply
My System
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 3570k Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H MSI TF3 7950 Tri-fire Samsung 30nm 4x4GB 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Intel 320 160GB and a few samsung platters Windows7 x64 Catleap Q270 Rosewill mechanical 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair AX850 Xigmatek Elysium Razer Deathadder Puretrak talent 
Audio
Xonar Essence STX 
  hide details  
Reply
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