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post #31441 of 105802
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickles View Post

Call it ghetto, but I am using dryer sheets on top of my switch biggrin.gif

And the best smelling computer award goes to....drum roll... Rickles.

Dryer Sheets, or your hardware store should carry bulk material to make screen doors. Get the finest mesh they have and it should work pretty well.
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post #31442 of 105802
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuganater View Post

That is tubing, not crystal links.
Any tips how to get the tubing that straight? my tubing stays bend-y shape in a straight flow since it's shipped as a circle like state
tried to blow dry or any minor heating up but still cant get it that straight
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post #31443 of 105802
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokrik View Post

Any tips how to get the tubing that straight? my tubing stays bend-y shape in a straight flow since it's shipped as a circle like state
tried to blow dry or any minor heating up but still cant get it that straight

I seem to recall a member mentioning he boils his and them dips them in cold water afterwards to train them into position.
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post #31444 of 105802
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokrik View Post

Any tips how to get the tubing that straight? my tubing stays bend-y shape in a straight flow since it's shipped as a circle like state
tried to blow dry or any minor heating up but still cant get it that straight

Maybe it's hard Acrylic tubing ?

Crystal links are a rip off from what I've understood. K.3nny got 2meters of acrylic tube for 10€. A crystal link is over 5€.

Here's his worklog and where I found out about acrylic tubing.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1323562/c-bonized-dangerden-acrylictubes
Edited by steelkevin - 11/7/12 at 7:28am
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post #31445 of 105802
it looks like 7/16 on a 1/2 barb.
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post #31446 of 105802
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by steelkevin View Post

Here you go: http://www.overclock.net/t/1324663/making-a-side-panel-window
Thanks for the video (I actually just realized I had that exact video hidden in my bookmarks from a while ago Oo), I'll check it out (again ? not sure I had the first time).
About the reservoir thing. These are what I'm talking about:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/multioption-res-x2/1.html
http://www.aquatuning.fr/product_info.php/info/p14113_Alphacool-riser-tube-1-4--pour-Coolplex-25-50-100mm.html
The second is probably exactly what I've got.
Ok so risers (that's apparently what they're called) help for bleeding and allow the top to be used as inlet (which I'll never do*).
So in my case, adding it to the Reservoir's inlet (not the pumps) which is at the bottom right next to the outlet which feeds the pump, would be useless ?
*Here's what I'd answered someone regarding why I wouldn't use the top as inlet (I haven't took the time to read it, was a while back): Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
The res has no thread up top. Otherwise that was the initial plan. I was going to get an EK Threaded top and have the rad that way.
But I figured having water come through the top of a cylinder reservoir was actually stupid so I wasn't going to spend money for something that would've been a nuisance more than anything else.
Let me explain myself, Having water come through the top of the reservoir would make it impossible to open it and fill it. That would make the first filling a real nuisance. Now add to that the fact the res would no longer be an "air trap", instead of the air going in the top of the res after bleeding it would go straight in the top rad thus making it nearly impossible to bleed if possible at all.
For those reasons, having a res set up that way is insane and I'd never do it.

No,its perfect on the inlet to the res,it jets the bubbles and air to the surface before the pump has a chance to grab them.
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post #31447 of 105802
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewHighScore View Post

it looks like 7/16 on a 1/2 barb.

My bad, I just can't stop thinking about the acrylic tube since I found out about it. Seems like the perfect solution.
I didn't even know what he was talking about but I figured since he thought it was crystal link sit had to be acrylic tube.
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

No,its perfect on the inlet to the res,it jets the bubbles and air to the surface before the pump has a chance to grab them.
That makes sense. The person who'd pm'ed me didn't answer after that. So I had no idea if I was thinking right or not.
That's actually a relief. I really found my tube routing to look messy party because of no wanting to use the top inlet. I guess I could just use the port ride above the one going from the rad to reservoir top as fill port if I used the top inlet.
Yeah, I'll do that with my next reservoir.
Edited by steelkevin - 11/7/12 at 7:43am
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post #31448 of 105802
I've had a bit of a re-arrange.. I found with the Koolance reservoir connected directly to the pump top (includung using the koolance anti cyclone), flow and pressure seemed low and the pump seemed to scavenge from the loop instead of the reservoir. So I changed back to my old Phobya Balancer 150 and all seems well again - I can see fluid moving in res, temps have improved by approx 2 - 3 degrees and pressure appears to be what it should.
...and as a bonus, the 2nd inlet on the pump made an ideal place to fit my drain thumb.gif

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post #31449 of 105802
I could probably google or search the forum for this but;
I dont want the 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tube as i think its to thick. But can someone recommend some red tubing that can handle a little tight bending?
post #31450 of 105802
I like a 3/8 5/8 for that , not as huge as the 3/4 stuff but does very well in tight turns , I have it running behind my mobo on a switch 810 build and no kinks !
    
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