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OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery - Page 3317

post #33161 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Unless you're willing to accept a lot of entrained air in the cooling loop water, (which hurts efficiency) you need to run a tube internally in the res on the incoming line so that the incoming water exits below the surface of the res water.
That waterfall effect has a rather negative consequence as far as cooling goes because it's constantly aerating the water.
Add a tube and a bit higher res level, and you'll get better temps, if that's you goal.
Darlene
yeah maybe because the waterfall effect, i'll try later to add tube and see if that make my temp better

Quote:
Originally Posted by jokrik View Post

Your temp seems to be a bit too high, how long has it been since you first start up you loop
Took me 2 days to completely remove all the bubbles from the top rad. But i didnt see any drastic change in my temp at ambient 23 i get 33 idle and around 55-57 on load, thats 1x360 and 1x240 cooling 2gpu and cpu, and im using 2 ddc pump which adds more heat to my loop.
Have you peeled off the plastic cover on your cpu waterblock? Some people forgot to peel it off, or have you ever taken apart the cpu block for cleaning? Some people did not put it back properly resulting in bad temps

it has been only one day since i start up this loop
well i taken apart the cpu block before to clean it, i'll check it later


here's the several suspect why my temp is so high:
- waterfall effect on res?
- cpu block didin't put it back properly?
- ambient temp? (around 30-33)



anyway on my previous cpu, 955 BE which has 4.2GHz clock, the temp on full load is around 48-50 with the same setup expect the res
here's my old post http://www.overclock.net/t/1077899/worklog-project-r-e-d#post_14436898
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post #33162 of 106449
I feel like I'd like to have you as my neighbor haha
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post #33163 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewHighScore View Post

Super cool idea! Can you paint stuff in there too?
I would imagine you could but the filter inside it a couple hundred bucks. Paint will make it hard to clean that filter. It makes a great air exchanger. Smoke filled room gone in seconds....really. I use to fix computers for next to nothing just to have something to do. Most if not all computers are filled with nasty dust. When the lady said I could have it that was the first thing I thought of. Took me about a year to set up my shop and install it.
Here is something else I have in my shop. Another friend gave me this.



In the late 1800's before the electric cash register they made them from wood. Made in Nashua NH at Nashua Cash Register. It still has the stamp on it.
It has a set of keys on the bottom that you can change the combination to anything you want. If you pull the wrong keys and pull the draw in ring s a bell to let the store keeper know someone is trying to rip him off. What do you think of that.
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post #33164 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by NostraD View Post

I hate to be the one to rain on the Durelene party (I was hopeful too), but it has been a few months now since I installed mine and it has started to cloud. I didn't notice until I tore my rig down yesterday to sleeve some cables. I am running distilled, Mayhems Deep Blue and a kill coil.
The first two pieces are a few months old. The third piece is an unused scrap of the same.

On an upside, it's very inexpensive - .45c - .69c/ft at Sidewinder depending on the size. So replacing it isn't going to break the bank, it's just a PIA.
Pics after the sleeving and new Durelene were installed. Also rerouted tubing with some behind mobo tray. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Really sweet looking. Its too bad you could not get rid of the coiled wires from in between those video cards. I can only imagine what better temps you would get with the extra air flow thru those huge water blocks. Thats only my opinion. I myself need a new case with room in the back for wires.
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post #33165 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by golfergolfer View Post

Has there been any plasticizer leakage in it? and what color did you get? I am planning on the clear as I want to use some dye...
I agree with this! My last usage of primochill looked like there was (as described by another member) cream cheese inside it.
Wow thats great thumb.gif guess i got the new stuff frown.gif
frown.gif I want duralene too heard it is the best...
So I should have no problems using it then? There are no reports of anyone using it who had any plasticizer problems or clouding?

That's one of the tube's I keep hearing holds.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NostraD View Post

I hate to be the one to rain on the Durelene party (I was hopeful too), but it has been a few months now since I installed mine and it has started to cloud. I didn't notice until I tore my rig down yesterday to sleeve some cables. I am running distilled, Mayhems Deep Blue and a kill coil.
The first two pieces are a few months old. The third piece is an unused scrap of the same.

On an upside, it's very inexpensive - .45c - .69c/ft at Sidewinder depending on the size. So replacing it isn't going to break the bank, it's just a PIA.
Pics after the sleeving and new Durelene were installed. Also rerouted tubing with some behind mobo tray. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





I'm crossing my fingers but from your post it may last longer than primochill. Mine is caking up the plasticizing and it sucks frown.gif
post #33166 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewHighScore View Post

I'm using feser 3/8 5/8th from dazmode and I have no plasticizer issues with my mayhems pastel. I have only been up and running for a short time though. I feel like a little over a month only.

Well a month is a month and hopefully it will continue to be ok thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by NostraD View Post

I hate to be the one to rain on the Durelene party (I was hopeful too), but it has been a few months now since I installed mine and it has started to cloud. I didn't notice until I tore my rig down yesterday to sleeve some cables. I am running distilled, Mayhems Deep Blue and a kill coil.
The first two pieces are a few months old. The third piece is an unused scrap of the same. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

On an upside, it's very inexpensive - .45c - .69c/ft at Sidewinder depending on the size. So replacing it isn't going to break the bank, it's just a PIA.
Pics after the sleeving and new Durelene were installed. Also rerouted tubing with some behind mobo tray. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Ahh this really sucks I was hopeful for this to have 0 problems...
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

That's one of the tube's I keep hearing holds.

Well I guess that there is no tubing out there that will have 0 problems... I guess I might have to replace the tubing every few months by the sound of it :/ Just to make sure no cream cheese grows on the inside.

Thanks for your help everyone cheers.gif
    
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post #33167 of 106449
Just Finished my build for my woman biggrin.gif

i just noticed the 2 hanging sata cables haha


post #33168 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qu1ckset View Post

Hey guys im using Masterkleer Purple UV tubing, only company that makes this color, but these tubes have the plasticizer issue, i can see the white coating in my tubes (rigs taken apart at the moment) and when i removed my rez i had to wipe the plastic clean.
Will this hurt my rig? will it affect temps? will it damage my radiators, blocks or pumps?
i want to keep using this tubing because the plasticizer isnt noticeable when everything is put together, and masterkleer is the only company with th color i want, but if this issue is damaging i dont want to continue using it....

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post #33169 of 106449
Hey i dont mean to be impolite, but there is a thread that addresses the tubing issue-try there for your queries wink.gif

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery
post #33170 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiGiCiDAL View Post

1) Maybe a stupid question, but wouldn't it just be cheaper, easier, and safer to simply replace your tubing rather than come up with ways to clean all the 'gunk' out of your loop on a regular basis? Not to mention even with a filter you still could have chunks getting caught in your blocks and not making it to the filter at all. thinking.gif
2) Don't know if you've considered the alternatives, but I would highly recommend checking out the Amahi project. I ditched my MS Home Sever when they dropped drive pooling and I love it for storing backups as well as storing/streaming all my BDs, DVDs, CDs, etc... and it's fast and comparatively stable (Fedora vs NT).
3) I understand that you're basically looking to undertake a 'project' rather than looking for a quick solution - so on that end I say GO FOR IT! (Provided you take tons of pictures and keep us in the loop - pun intended). However, as far as moving your drives outside your case... you could just get an eSata external cage and mod it (or leave it for that matter) to match the colors/style of your case. Might discover in the long run it wound up being cheaper too... biggrin.gif I've seen THESE come up on ebay from time to time for less than $100 before.

Thanks so much for the info!
1) It would indeed be safer to replace my tubing beforehand, absolutely; however, "easier" is not necessarily the case as I would have to redo the tubing regardless, and it would not be any cheaper as I already have the ten feet of PrimoFlex Pro LRT that I ordered from Jab-Tech (I think) way back when. I have been going SO SLOW at finishing my build as I keep running into small bumps that end up being "big" bumps due to my schedule with classes and such (plus, girlfriend does not like when she comes over and I spend 8 hours working on PC, and I am sure many can relate!). That said, I am running the tubing for the last time today actually (although I wish I had been able to get more feedback on which way to run my loop :/ ).
Also, the filter idea was just an idea, throwing it out into the ether to see if it was feasible, and apparantly the ether (i.e. you) spit it back out as NOT feasible, so now I know smile.gif I still think it would be valuable for "final flushing" once the loop is assembled and ready for leak testing, but it is also an extra step that literally everyone has done fine without thus far, so I am probably just being overly-anal about it haha.
2) Very interesting! I am going to do some more reading up on this as it seems like it has a ton of potential benefits for my application. The only problem is that I, sadly, do not know Linux outside of the Android OS (and I call myself a geek *hangs head*), so I have been leaning towards a Windows-based OS simply out of familiarity/comfort-level/initial-ease-of-use/etc. That said, I am always willing to learn anything new!
The one thing that I would "question" would be Amahi's use in a system that would on occasion serve as a "backup gaming PC", i.e. for when a friend is over (instead of lugging his or her rig to my house) or when I want to play on my 55" LED-LCD 120hz television with 5.1/7.2/11.3 channel surround sound (multiple speaker setups; for games, I love my Cerwin-Vega VE-12's for the FR/FL Mains; not the most "Hi-Fi" but they just love to be fed hundreds of watts of power and for action-y games like most FPS's, they are perfect, and literally shake the entire house when something explodes; they overpower all of my subs except for my Pioneer dual-12" 2000W units lol).
I am trying to make as "Multipurpose" of a machine as possible, one that will be able to run F@H 24/7, work as a home file/media/backup server at the same time, AND be used as a "gaming" PC in the aforementioned scenarios. I know that the more things you ask a single machine to do, the less it excels at each individual task, but until I have ~$5-10k to really build a true home server (going to get into the whole "Home Automation" thing, see how far it has come since '08-'09), I think that I can fab something together that will be at least "acceptable". Plus, I have always wanted to try my hand at "building" my own case ("building" because it would just be some cutting, welding, and painting to make a double-wide out of two already-existing cases, as I understand it), and I have more than enough unused OEM cases to go around. In fact, I am also thinking of turning one into a test-bench of sorts by basically "turning it inside out" as well as adding a few things myself smile.gif
3) Haha, I will definitely be sure to take a ton of pictures! I have been trying to work on my photography skills (I'm not exactly a great photographer; more of an "audiographer" if you will, as I have been doing recording/mixing/editing for local musicians for years, learning as I go), and this would be a good way to practice. I just need to get a hold of my girlfriend's brother's Canon D5 Mark III or even his T4i, as both allow for very easy High-Dynamic Range photography compared to my D3100 or D5100, as they let you composite HDR photos right in the camera (burst mode will take 5 shots, each at a different exposure; not manual fiddling around and much much easier to do without a tripod). Especially since he has a few very nice Macro Lenses, and I have none (I especially love the EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM lens as it gives very "cinematic"-feeling photos, but GAH if I broke it), although the AF-S DX NIKKOR 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR that I have, in addition to a 55-180 (?) NIKKOR lens, does a pretty good job, it just can't get the super-fine high-contrast high-detail photos like his D5mk3 with the the EF 16-35 can. Plus, the photos I have taken with that combo (the D5 Mark III + 16-35mm f/2.8L II lens) while learning HDR photography came out incredibly well even before Post, and I want to have the chance to take some "professional"-looking high-dynamic range pics of my rig once it's finished, as well as some long-exposure pics because I think they look awesome when done properly (of water-cooled PC's, as the water looks like a "laser-like blur" if properly lit).
Anyway... Warning: WalloText (Click to show)
I am very much into the whole "keep computer parts out of the landfills" thing, so I am trying to reuse as much stuff as possible that I have lying around. That was a big factor in deciding to go ahead and begin planning for this project. While 3-5yr old computer stuff is "ancient" for many of the uses we at OCN would look to use them for, they are often more than capable of doing just about everything aside from playing the newest games, doing well with HD/HD+(2k/4k/etc) Video Editing, very high resolution photo editing, and so forth. However, a C2D E8600 overclocked to FSB400-450 x10-11multi (4.4-4.5Ghz), with 4x2GB DDR2-800 4-4-4-10 DIMMs (DDR2-800/900/1200/1350 @ 4-4-4-12/5-5-5-12/4-5-5-11/etc), hopefully in an Asus P5Q-Premium Motherboard (if I can find one), equipped with a decent LSI/Adaptec/Areca PCIe2.0x8 8-16x Internal-Port SAS/SATA Hardware RAID Controller Card (with a BBU + anywhere from 1GB DDR2-533 to 4GB DDR3-1333 ECC RAM Cache) and a halfway-decent Intel 2x10GbE NIC (as an adjunct to the onboard 4x1GbE ports), rocking a Creative X-Fi Ti HD or Asus XONAR Essence ST/STX (or Xonar DG/DGX) sound card, and sporting a pair or more of GTX280s/GTX460s/GTX470s/GTX480s or even a mix of GTX2xx/4xx cards in SLI with an 8800GTS(G80 or G92 so 640MB or 512MB)/GT/GTX or 9800GT/GTX/GTX+/GTX2 to help Fold but work as PhysX card on occasion (friends and I LOVE BL and now that BL2 is out, I have a feeling I will start to be having a lot of people over, a lot of the time). Add a Blu-Ray Reader (maybe burner) and a DVD-R/W drive for playing/ripping BR discs and DVD's as well as copying DVDs/CD's, of course. THEN, put the OS on a pair of striped SSD's (or just one), and fill the rest up with as many Hard Drives as I can pack in/afford, running the MB ports in JBOD to free up the CPU, while keeping a gigantic RAID100/10/50/60 array on the RAID controller, or possibly even add in a PERC6/i to allow for a second independent array; that would allow for a completely independent and gigantic RAID0 across 8 discs, say WD RE4 1-2TB HDD's or even 8x 300-450GB Seagate Cheetah 15k7 SAS 15,000rpm HDD's (if I can get them from my friend, as he often has dozens of extras; the place he works changes their SAS drives every 6 months, which is crazy, but they sell him the old ones for ~$3-15ea depending on the size). That would allow for some major redundancy on one array, while giving throughput that absolutely saturates the LAN on the other.

The only problem I'm going to have is finding the water cooling stuff to go with these "older" parts... I want to have the CPU under water, the GPU's under water (full coverage blocks preferably, but depending on the GPU's it may be fine to have GPU-only), and also the Motherboard's VRMs/MOSFET area, Northbridge, and Southbridge as I know the P35/P45 chipsets can get hot, and that keeping the NB/SB as absolutely cold as possible vastly increases stability.
However, I would also want to try and water-cool the RAID Card(s), as they get hot as ****, and it would be pretty awesome. That's a bit of an under-taking, but I'm up for it.
The hard drives would simply be in a separate "chamber" from the main components, so 4x 120x38mm fans blowing air across them and sitting between the HDD racks and the case wall, as well as another 4x 120x38mm fans on the inside of the case mounted to the HDD racks "pulling" the air through, would be plenty of cooling I would think.
As for rads, I would be able to fit something like 2x 360's + 1x 280 + 1x 240 easily, but I might just go with something like a SuperNOVA 1260 or MORA 1080/1260, or maybe the newer Koolance 9x120 rad as it's a wicked 18fpi, possibly with ~5ft of tubing between it and the case (as well as QDC fittings), and have the rad located in one of the basement storage rooms or even behind the False Wall in my Home Theater area (which are all sound-proofed) so that I could use some seriously powerful fans and pumps yet hear nothing, while the computer is in an actual living space. If I could build a decent rad-stand or "RAD BOX", I could integrate the pumps and res all into one unit with the rad, and open up a ton of extra space in the case.
Anyway, kinda thinking out loud here, but thanks for the support smile.gif I apologize for the wordy post :S

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wizid View Post

I made this for my shop. I had a friend give me an August West soot sweeper. It blows out an enormous amount of air so I vented it out one of my basement window. I built a wooden box and mounted the suction end in the bottom of it. I place any computer in the box, put the plastic curtain down, Start the unit and blow all the dust out with a small vacuum. All the dust or most anyways gets sucked into the soot sweeper. I work on a lot of folks PC's and do not like breathing in their dust. It works the bomb diggity. Tell me what you all think....
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


That is an absolutely brilliant idea! applaud.gifapplaud.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by NostraD View Post

I hate to be the one to rain on the Durelene party (I was hopeful too), but it has been a few months now since I installed mine and it has started to cloud. I didn't notice until I tore my rig down yesterday to sleeve some cables. I am running distilled, Mayhems Deep Blue and a kill coil.
The first two pieces are a few months old. The third piece is an unused scrap of the same. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
On an upside, it's very inexpensive - .45c - .69c/ft at Sidewinder depending on the size. So replacing it isn't going to break the bank, it's just a PIA.
Pics after the sleeving and new Durelene were installed. Also rerouted tubing with some behind mobo tray.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



I must say, I absolutely love how your Switch turned out!! One of the VERY few I've seen that have kept the lower HDD bay, and removed the top one. Quite unique and very awesome thumb.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrakeZ View Post

yeah maybe because the waterfall effect, i'll try later to add tube and see if that make my temp better
it has been only one day since i start up this loop
well i taken apart the cpu block before to clean it, i'll check it later
here's the several suspect why my temp is so high:
- waterfall effect on res?
- cpu block didin't put it back properly?
- ambient temp? (around 30-33)
anyway on my previous cpu, 955 BE which has 4.2GHz clock, the temp on full load is around 48-50 with the same setup expect the res
here's my old post http://www.overclock.net/t/1077899/worklog-project-r-e-d#post_14436898

I would:
- Reseat Block
- Reapply TIM (try "tinting"; essentially applying TIM to both surfaces, rubbing it in, and then using a fine edge to scrape it off, which ensures that the TIM ends up in all the little crevices; then, just use a smaller amount of TIM when you mount the two to account for any convex/concave surfaces...it works quite well, especially with pastes like PK-1 that are thicker and don't need to cure)
- Ensure that your Radiators are fully bled, and same for the blocks (a water bubble in either could cause high temps!)
- Check that all fans are working properly
- Take temps using a digital thermometer or, better yet, an infrared thermometer as they will be MUCH more accurate than any software monitoring tools (if you are loaded with cash, get a laser thermometer, they are very awesome! lol)...
- CHECK DELTA-T!! If the d-T is within-normal-limits, then the issue is not likely to be with the water loop, and more likely with something else. This is one of the quickest ways to rule out the H2O equipment, IMO, but don't rely on just having a good delta-T as meaning that there is nothing wrong with the loop ("measure twice, cut once" kind of mentality!)
   
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EVGA GTX780Ti Classified K|ngp|n Edition @ 1483... 16GB G.Skill Ripjaws-Z @ DDR3-2248 9-10-9-26 1T Samsung 830 256GB SSD WD10EZEX 1TB HDD 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
WD10EALX 1TB HDD Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 1TB WD3200AAKS 320GB HDD WD5000HHTZ 10krpm 500GB VelociRaptor 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
LG/Hitachi Slim DVD-R/W Custom MB-Backside VRM-sinks (Copper) 3x NZXT RF-FX140LB 1-2krpm 98.3CFM Case Fans 2x Corsair SP120-PE Case Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Heatkiller GTX680 "Hole Edition" Block + Backplate XSPC Single-Bay Res (Single 5.25 bay) EK Multioption Res X2 - Advanced 150 DD "Fill-Port Res" + Fill-Port Fitting (Red) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
2x MCP35X + Heatsinks/80x15mm Fan XSPC EX420 Alphacool NeXXos UT60 240 6x Bgears Blasters 140mm 1800rpm Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
4x Koolance 120x25mm 2600rpm Fans Comp/Rotary Fittings (BP/XSPC/Monsoon) Primoflex Pro LRT - White (1/2x3/4) Windows 7 Professional 64bit  
MonitorMonitorMonitorMonitor
Dell P2210Hb 21.5" 1920x1080p Viewsonic VA2012WB 20.1" LCD 1680x1050 Dell U3014 Eizo 27" 1440p 10bit RGB-LED Backlit AH-IPS Panel 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
55" LG HDTV (their top 2014 model) Ducky Mechanical (Browns) NZXT HALE90 850W + 8 blown-up AX1200/i's NZXT Switch 810 (White) 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
R.A.T.3 + MX510 My Desk GRADO RS1i Headphones Grado PS1000 Headphones 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Bitfenix Hydra Pro Fan Controller 5ch 30W/ch Bitfenix Alchemy Individually-Sleeved Extension... NZXT Individually-Sleeved Front Panel Wires (Bl... Phobya Sleeved 1x3pin-to-4x3pin Fan Splitter 
OtherOtherOther
Sleeved Wires w Paracord myself (no Heatshrink) Custom Front and Top Panels w HexxMesh *In Prog... Working on Custom Pedestal Prototype 
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Z77 Bench-a-lot
(31 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3930K @ 4.92Ghz Asus Rampage 4 Extreme EVGA GTX670 FTW 2GB  EVGA GTX780Ti Classified K|ngp|n Edition @ 1483... 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveHard Drive
EVGA GTX780Ti Classified K|ngp|n Edition @ 1483... 16GB G.Skill Ripjaws-Z @ DDR3-2248 9-10-9-26 1T Samsung 830 256GB SSD WD10EZEX 1TB HDD 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
WD10EALX 1TB HDD Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 1TB WD3200AAKS 320GB HDD WD5000HHTZ 10krpm 500GB VelociRaptor 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
LG/Hitachi Slim DVD-R/W Custom MB-Backside VRM-sinks (Copper) 3x NZXT RF-FX140LB 1-2krpm 98.3CFM Case Fans 2x Corsair SP120-PE Case Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Heatkiller GTX680 "Hole Edition" Block + Backplate XSPC Single-Bay Res (Single 5.25 bay) EK Multioption Res X2 - Advanced 150 DD "Fill-Port Res" + Fill-Port Fitting (Red) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
2x MCP35X + Heatsinks/80x15mm Fan XSPC EX420 Alphacool NeXXos UT60 240 6x Bgears Blasters 140mm 1800rpm Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
4x Koolance 120x25mm 2600rpm Fans Comp/Rotary Fittings (BP/XSPC/Monsoon) Primoflex Pro LRT - White (1/2x3/4) Windows 7 Professional 64bit  
MonitorMonitorMonitorMonitor
Dell P2210Hb 21.5" 1920x1080p Viewsonic VA2012WB 20.1" LCD 1680x1050 Dell U3014 Eizo 27" 1440p 10bit RGB-LED Backlit AH-IPS Panel 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
55" LG HDTV (their top 2014 model) Ducky Mechanical (Browns) NZXT HALE90 850W + 8 blown-up AX1200/i's NZXT Switch 810 (White) 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
R.A.T.3 + MX510 My Desk GRADO RS1i Headphones Grado PS1000 Headphones 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Bitfenix Hydra Pro Fan Controller 5ch 30W/ch Bitfenix Alchemy Individually-Sleeved Extension... NZXT Individually-Sleeved Front Panel Wires (Bl... Phobya Sleeved 1x3pin-to-4x3pin Fan Splitter 
OtherOtherOther
Sleeved Wires w Paracord myself (no Heatshrink) Custom Front and Top Panels w HexxMesh *In Prog... Working on Custom Pedestal Prototype 
  hide details  
Reply
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