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OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery - Page 3320

post #33191 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

I would:
- Reseat Block
- Reapply TIM (try "tinting"; essentially applying TIM to both surfaces, rubbing it in, and then using a fine edge to scrape it off, which ensures that the TIM ends up in all the little crevices; then, just use a smaller amount of TIM when you mount the two to account for any convex/concave surfaces...it works quite well, especially with pastes like PK-1 that are thicker and don't need to cure)
- Ensure that your Radiators are fully bled, and same for the blocks (a water bubble in either could cause high temps!)
- Check that all fans are working properly
- Take temps using a digital thermometer or, better yet, an infrared thermometer as they will be MUCH more accurate than any software monitoring tools (if you are loaded with cash, get a laser thermometer, they are very awesome! lol)...
- CHECK DELTA-T!! If the d-T is within-normal-limits, then the issue is not likely to be with the water loop, and more likely with something else. This is one of the quickest ways to rule out the H2O equipment, IMO, but don't rely on just having a good delta-T as meaning that there is nothing wrong with the loop ("measure twice, cut once" kind of mentality!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDad62 View Post

Fill the res up more and see if that helps as well.

okay i'll try all the advice asap, thank you guys!
oh anyway is the tube affect too? cause i have used this tube for almost one year i think

Quote:
Originally Posted by eskamobob1 View Post

nice build drake smile.gif
and i finaly just got the rest of my parts yesterday (atleast the majority of what i need)... i should be gettin a build log up in the next few weeks (once i make my desk) biggrin.gif

thank you, i'll post more picture soon when i have my camera back biggrin.gif

good luck with your build anyway thumb.gif
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post #33192 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by d3adsy View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickles View Post

my computer shuts down (via coretemp) when the cpu reaches a blistering 70c
So there is no way do burn your system down if pump fails?
My motherboard allows me to make it shutdown at n°C, n being a user-defined max. I set it to 40, to test, and after loading IBT the pc just turned off. So yeah, if you want a safety, you generally can set one.
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post #33193 of 106449
Hi anybody knows if you can use the single G1/4 Thread on the back of the alphacool 480 as an inlet?
post #33194 of 106449
Here are some new pics from mine.





More and better Pics comming soon.
Edited by matan11 - 12/3/12 at 12:03pm
    
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post #33195 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorvin View Post

Hi anybody knows if you can use the single G1/4 Thread on the back of the alphacool 480 as an inlet?

You could but it would hinder the performance.
post #33196 of 106449
Qwerty
Edited by rusasus - 12/3/12 at 10:08am
post #33197 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by matan11 View Post

Here are some new pics from mine.



More an better Pics comming soon.
nice and clean build !

Here is mine

My first time water cooling build.


Core i7 930 4ghz
12 GB ram 1600mhz
powercolor 5870 cf
800w cm silent pro
Gigabyte X58A-UD3R

Danger Den DD-CPX Pro 12V 3 Pin Powered Pump - 237 GPH
XSPC EX240 Dual 120mm Low Profile Split Fin Radiator
XSPC 5.25" Bay Reservoir - Black
PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 1/2"ID 3/4"OD with 1/8" Wall
Danger Den MPC-CPU CPU Liquid Cooling Block


Clean eh?

Upgrading to 3770k and 7970 in a couple of months.

trying to resolve my motherboard/radiator issue, suggestions would be nice
post #33198 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimpleTech View Post

You could but it would hinder the performance.

This. Essentially you'd be making it a single pass radiator rather than a dual pass as far as I am aware. The single port side it a big chamber - so if you at least ran a Y on the other side (took an outlet from both sides and combined them after the radiator) you'd be maintaining the surface area - but you'd be halving the time the water spent in the rad itself... so you'd lose performance. I guess the upside is you'd also have less restriction - but it's not like that rad is going to be restrictive anyway and you'd generally want the water to take the longest to get through the rads so it can dump the heat there rather than carrying it to the next component in line.
Edited by DiGiCiDAL - 12/3/12 at 10:18am
post #33199 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiGiCiDAL View Post

This. Essentially you'd be making it a single pass radiator rather than a dual pass as far as I am aware. The single port side it a big chamber - so if you at least ran a Y on the other side (took an outlet from both sides and combined them after the radiator) you'd be maintaining the surface area - but you'd be halving the time the water spent in the rad itself... so you'd lose performance. I guess the upside is you'd also have less restriction - but it's not like that rad is going to be restrictive anyway and you'd generally want the water to take the longest to get through the rads so it can dump the heat there rather than carrying it to the next component in line.

Ok thanks for fast answer don't want to lose performance, so i'll skip it
post #33200 of 106449
Replied in your thread, but you'll need to cut the top of your case which will allow you to mount the radiator offset from the center, which will allow it to be physically over your motherboard without interfering.
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