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post #34421 of 105811
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Thanks bud thumb.gif
Would it be an easy tap to just go straight from the M3 holes to the M4 tap? I looked at a tap chart and the pilot hole recommended is 3.3 (vs. 3mm for the M3 hole).


I've tapped many a holes in my time (get your mind out of the gutter OCN) and you should be fine with just going into the M3 holes. If the steel were a lower gauge(thicker) I would say you would have to redrill. If you do redrill the holes be sure to put a stop on your bit so it doesn't grab the metal and send it through the tubes. That would be bad. Be sure to tap by hand and take your time going in and out so you don't hit the tubes. The first part of the tap should be tapered. To be honest, you could probably tap the holes with just the screw itself, but to be sure I would use a tap. The taps don't go bad as long as you use it right and I am sure you would use it in the future. I have a kit that has multiple size as that was the cheaper option for me at the time( commercial door installer).
post #34422 of 105811
Quote:
Originally Posted by teamrushpntball View Post

I doubt that would make a difference, but if you do have difficulty you could always drill the hole out ever so slightly.

Tnx thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by vaporizer View Post

I've tapped many a holes in my time (get your mind out of the gutter OCN) and you should be fine with just going into the M3 holes. If the steel were a lower gauge(thicker) I would say you would have to redrill. If you do redrill the holes be sure to put a stop on your bit so it doesn't grab the metal and send it through the tubes. That would be bad. Be sure to tap by hand and take your time going in and out so you don't hit the tubes. The first part of the tap should be tapered. To be honest, you could probably tap the holes with just the screw itself, but to be sure I would use a tap. The taps don't go bad as long as you use it right and I am sure you would use it in the future. I have a kit that has multiple size as that was the cheaper option for me at the time( commercial door installer).

Thanks guys thumb.gif

Since I'm planning on selling these 360s later one, I'll put it off for now until i get my 480s. I can buy a cheap tap set at Harbor Freight and just practice on a dead (punctured) rad.

Nice idea to tap with an M4 screw. will save me the purchase of a tap set if that works.


anyways, I have a g-1/4 tap and bit for it. I just haven't gotten around to use it. I had planned to make a clear acrylic bridge for my old ek blocks but I never got around to do that. Might use it when i switch to some bay reservoirs smile.gif


+1(s)
post #34423 of 105811
thank you very much cibi am new to the forum, I try to translate Spanish to English jajajajaja.
I mean a 70 percent,I read some.
I came to learn more, learn more every day and I like to learn from all of you.
I live in connecticut usa, sorry I have to learn English jajajaj

thank you very much to all
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post #34424 of 105811
Quote:
Originally Posted by manosanta13 View Post

thank you very much cibi am new to the forum, I try to translate Spanish to English jajajajaja.
I mean a 70 percent,I read some.
I came to learn more, learn more every day and I like to learn from all of you.
I live in connecticut usa, sorry I have to learn English jajajaj
thank you very much to all

Holy GAWD !! what is that ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Rl5svAlMuM

I read your parts list, the vid appears to show 5 reservoirs, tho I know there's 4. such an IL MONSTRO !!
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post #34425 of 105811
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Tnx thumb.gif
Thanks guys thumb.gif
Since I'm planning on selling these 360s later one, I'll put it off for now until i get my 480s. I can buy a cheap tap set at Harbor Freight and just practice on a dead (punctured) rad.
Nice idea to tap with an M4 screw. will save me the purchase of a tap set if that works.
anyways, I have a g-1/4 tap and bit for it. I just haven't gotten around to use it. I had planned to make a clear acrylic bridge for my old ek blocks but I never got around to do that. Might use it when i switch to some bay reservoirs smile.gif
+1(s)

Only one last bit of advise. Just make sure your tap threads match your screws. 1/4-20 is a pretty common thread pattern but there are other 1/4-XX patterns. Thanks for the rep
post #34426 of 105811
So im thinking of getting 6 GT 1850s for my ex360. Yay or nay? Is there a better fan for the EX rad?
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post #34427 of 105811
Quote:
Originally Posted by vaporizer View Post

Only one last bit of advise. Just make sure your tap threads match your screws. 1/4-20 is a pretty common thread pattern but there are other 1/4-XX patterns. Thanks for the rep

Yes, I bought a bpp 1/4". I have yet to use it since I can't find a large enough wrench for it. Might just use my drill (or impact drill).
post #34428 of 105811
I figured that someone would have brought it up by now, but since they haven't . . . .

Be carefull with going larger on rad holes . . .

The reason is that if you look at how most holes are made, they are pushed thru, and the metal rolls up and out around the hole on the back side.

This is what the threads are actually in, this little rim of metal, otherwise. the threads would only be as long as the sheet metal is thick, which wouldn't hold squat.

When you put in a bigger screw, you pretty much remove that little rim of metal that has all the threading in it, and are left with only the thin sheetmetal of the rad frame without much holding power.

If you just "have" to put something bigger in place of 3mm hardware (and I hate 3mm too) . . Go with 4mm. It's just about the size of 6-32, but has much finer threads, which work much better in the thin metal which is what you'll have to work with.


Darlene
post #34429 of 105811
Quote:
Originally Posted by vaporizer View Post

Only one last bit of advise. Just make sure your tap threads match your screws. 1/4-20 is a pretty common thread pattern but there are other 1/4-XX patterns. Thanks for the rep


Werm said G-1/4 . . .that's the thread size for most WC fittings also called british parallel pipe thread (bpp)

It uses an 11.8mm bit, so not likely to get that confused with a 1/4" american thread size, lol

Darlene
post #34430 of 105811
i found when tapping my radiators, the best way was the legitimate way - using an actual tapper. and a hand crank tapper at that. i'd never risk using a drill myself. too much risk in over powering the drill and punching through the fins and such. that tapper i posted a couple pages back was 15 bucks at home depot, and the tap bit itself was like 4 bucks. not bad, and considering 6-32 is a super common size - at least for me, i decided to keep it. lol i honestly thought about using the tapper, and then returning it back to home depot. it's a neat little tool. and it's the right way of going about it imo.

just my 2cents.gif
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