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post #34431 of 106449
I bought the g1/4 tap to make a custom bridge for some ek blocks. i ended up selling the gpu(s) with the blocks and the bridge too. I still couldn't find a large enough wrench for the tap though, which makes me think I might have bought a machinery tap rather then a manual tap.


As far as tapping the rad, I'm more interested in "upgrading" the M3 screws on the Alphacool rads to M4. Since I don't plan to keep these current ones, I'll leave this project until i get my new rads.

I definitely prefer M4 or at leas #6-32 screws for the rad. M3 has too much wiggle room which is a pita to install on my case. When i had the SR1s and a DD case, the M4s went in smoothly.

Its a bit annoying (but understandable) that Alphacool uses M3 on their huge and heavy Monsta rads.
post #34432 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by lifeisshort117 View Post

i found when tapping my radiators, the best way was the legitimate way - using an actual tapper. and a hand crank tapper at that. i'd never risk using a drill myself. too much risk in over powering the drill and punching through the fins and such. that tapper i posted a couple pages back was 15 bucks at home depot, and the tap bit itself was like 4 bucks. not bad, and considering 6-32 is a super common size - at least for me, i decided to keep it. lol i honestly thought about using the tapper, and then returning it back to home depot. it's a neat little tool. and it's the right way of going about it imo.
just my 2cents.gif

your two cents is worth alot more then two cents as it will save alot of radiators
post #34433 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by lifeisshort117 View Post

i found when tapping my radiators, the best way was the legitimate way - using an actual tapper. and a hand crank tapper at that. i'd never risk using a drill myself. too much risk in over powering the drill and punching through the fins and such. that tapper i posted a couple pages back was 15 bucks at home depot, and the tap bit itself was like 4 bucks. not bad, and considering 6-32 is a super common size - at least for me, i decided to keep it. lol i honestly thought about using the tapper, and then returning it back to home depot. it's a neat little tool. and it's the right way of going about it imo.
just my 2cents.gif

Good lordy, I would never use a drill to tap a rad. I already killed a new and expensive rad a few years ago so Im very cautious with my radiators redface.gif. I would definitely use a manual tap for the rads.


I am scheming some custom made fittings like Ts and Xs for my loop. I have a g1/4 tap and i wouldn't hesitate using a drill press or a drill/impact-drill on some scrap acrylic I have. It should be interesting thumb.gif
post #34434 of 106449
Finally got my build together, now i just need to work on my lighting, not satisfied yet...

20121228_153225_zps29fcc784.jpg
20121228_155207_zps1eec43ee.jpg
20121228_183019_zps6eb9393c.jpg
20121228_185230_zpsbce3ca80.jpg
Devil's Lair
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Devil's Lair
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post #34435 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Good lordy, I would never use a drill to tap a rad. I already killed a new and expensive rad a few years ago so Im very cautious with my radiators redface.gif. I would definitely use a manual tap for the rads.
I am scheming some custom made fittings like Ts and Xs for my loop. I have a g1/4 tap and i wouldn't hesitate using a drill press or a drill/impact-drill on some scrap acrylic I have. It should be interesting thumb.gif

i was merely saying that to stray any other readers away from drilling tongue.gif i figured you knew what you were doing lol.

i really like the idea of making your own Ts and Xs. but my thought on that is since you have to drill all the way through the acrylic, then merely tap a 1/4" or 1/2" into the acrylic, the pre-existing hole you drilled would make it very easy to hand tap the g1/4 threads so they'd be more precise - acrylic isn't that tough wink.gif

is that tap bit you own have a square tip on the other end by chance? if so, there are hand tappers that are made by the same company that made the one i bought (Irwin). each hand tapper has adjustable sizing to accommodate several different bits - but bigger ones are also available for the really big tappers. i personally would go that route. that way you also come up with a hand tapper you could use in the future.
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Narada
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post #34436 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by lifeisshort117 View Post

i was merely saying that to stray any other readers away from drilling tongue.gif i figured you knew what you were doing lol.
i really like the idea of making your own Ts and Xs. but my thought on that is since you have to drill all the way through the acrylic, then merely tap a 1/4" or 1/2" into the acrylic, the pre-existing hole you drilled would make it very easy to hand tap the g1/4 threads so they'd be more precise - acrylic isn't that tough wink.gif
is that tap bit you own have a square tip on the other end by chance? if so, there are hand tappers that are made by the same company that made the one i bought (Irwin). each hand tapper has adjustable sizing to accommodate several different bits - but bigger ones are also available for the really big tappers. i personally would go that route. that way you also come up with a hand tapper you could use in the future.

This thing is big. I bought a few wrenches from Harbor Freight and Homes and they weren't big enough. That's why I haven't really looked at hand taping it. I'm sure its doable. Let me get a pic w/ he caliper on it smile.gif
Edited by wermad - 12/28/12 at 4:54pm
post #34437 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

I bought the g1/4 tap to make a custom bridge for some ek blocks. i ended up selling the gpu(s) with the blocks and the bridge too. I still couldn't find a large enough wrench for the tap though, which makes me think I might have bought a machinery tap rather then a manual tap.
As far as tapping the rad, I'm more interested in "upgrading" the M3 screws on the Alphacool rads to M4. Since I don't plan to keep these current ones, I'll leave this project until i get my new rads.
I definitely prefer M4 or at leas #6-32 screws for the rad. M3 has too much wiggle room which is a pita to install on my case. When i had the SR1s and a DD case, the M4s went in smoothly.
Its a bit annoying (but understandable) that Alphacool uses M3 on their huge and heavy Monsta rads.
The Alphacool M3 threads are crap, at least the two rads I have. I used #6-32 for the stripped ones since I always have those laying around. But if you are going to tap such a short area you will likely need a bottom tap. A starter tap for #6-32 wouldn't even begin to engage the threads so I just screwed the screws in and they hold fine, in spite of having been removed/reinstalled several times.
I couldn't find a bottom tap in either 6-32 or M4 anywhere in my area.

Off this topic and on to another one while I'm thinking about it, you guys that disassemble fans for painting might like to know there are some clips available that will fit GT AP15's from the hardware store. I don't know the exact size because I had to pick through a mess but I bought all the little "e clips" I could find to replace the ones that "got away" and they work fine.
post #34438 of 106449
post #34439 of 106449
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post #34440 of 106449
I am pretty sure I am going to sell my two RX 360s and pick up one of these, Watercool MO-RA3 Rad and throw my rig into something simple (thinking the Fractal R4). That way I can mount the rad to the back panel of the case with some quick disconnects for easy moving and draining.

A single D5 should be able to push that, a cpu and two gpu blocks right? ( I am about 78% sure it will be fine tongue.gif )
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