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post #35391 of 105801
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcuestag View Post

Hey guys, do you think 540mm worth of rad space is enough to cool down 2x GTX680 and i7 3930k @ 4.6GHz? While gaming the CPU never breaks above 70ºC and the GPU's never break above ~48ºC with a heavy overclock, this is with both cards at 99% usage. If I just run Prime 95 on the CPU and idle the cards it never reaches above 65ºC. In Folding@Home however, since everything is at 100% usage, it does get a bit toasty, cards go as high as 56ºC on hot nights and CPU goes as high as 78ºC.

I did try adding an extra 120mm rad I had laying around, but it didn't really do anything, so I guess this 540mm rad is still more than enough for my loop?

PS: If it helps, my 3930k is a poor clocker, needs 1.4v for 4.6GHz, but I can't complain since I got it VERY cheap from a friend. tongue.gif

Hey kcuestag.

In my opinion, the best way to verify if you have enough rad space is not with your CPU or GPUs temperatures. You have to compare your room (or case) ambient temperature and check the delta between the water temperature. At a point, you will add more and more rad space, but water temp can never be UNDER ambient temp. I call that a saturate / professionnal loop wink.gif

If your Ambient: 26'C
and water Temp: 41'C

^This is very average rad space. (Delta = 15'C frown.gif )


If your Ambient: 26'C
and water Temp: 30'C

^This is very good watercooling Loop. (Delta = 4'C biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif )


More INFO! (Click to show)

http://www.overclockers.com/guide-deltat-water-cooling/

Delta T (DT) and Why it’s so Important to Understand it

DT is the foundation of your water cooling loop. The better your DT, the cooler your chips are. In water cooling, DT is simply the difference between the ambient air temperature and the water temperature on the outgoing side of the radiator. Room temperature vs. water temperature: that’s it. You can’t remove all the heat – no system is 100% efficient, nor can you go below ambient room temperature.

When you boot up a powered off, water-cooled PC, the water and your CPU are at room temperature. When you boot the PC up, the chip gets hot very fast. The water moves over the chip, it begins to remove heat, the heat goes to the radiator, and some of the heat is removed. Not all of it can be removed. You have to know a lot of thermodynamics theory deeply (more than me) to know exactly why. The water begins to warm up slowly, and in time it reaches a balance: an equilibrium. Heat is made and heat removed, the loop is stabilized and temperatures will not change.

If you change the room temperature, the load on the loop or your fan speed, the loop needs to readjust. This is when we like to measure our cooling ability – usually 30 minutes at a stable load is long enough to begin to measure. If you increase your cooling capability, the water will get cooler.

Water temperatures in a stabilized loop, amazingly, are very similar anywhere in the loop. There is only a 2-3°C maximum difference between the radiator out temperature and the CPU out temperature; this has been verified by Skinnee. Remember, the water can’t remove all the heat, some is transferred to the air. Your radiator size, efficiency and fans play a big part in this. Look at it this way – it’s a system built on many parts and within the laws of physics. Every part affects the other.

Let’s Talk About What a “Good” DT is

A CPU loop needs a good DT. Under 10°C is just fine, getting closer to 5°C is very nice and important if you want big overclocks. Getting under 5°C is just overdoing it, unless you’re very extreme, need it for benching or just want a challenge. On an average CPU loop shoot for under 10°C and adjust your overclocks to be fine under the temperatures suggested by the CPU and GPU manufacturers.

A GPU loop used to be fine with a 15° to 20°C DT. If you’re a big GPU overclocker, then shoot for 15°C or lower. The Voltage Regulator Modules (VRM) on these new cards can be affected by temps. If you’ve got a GTX 280 like me, don’t worry about it, it’s the 5970 and the GTX480 and other really hot cards that can have this issue. A lower DT might be needed for a GPU loop if you’re a big overclocker – thats up to you as you design your setup.


.
Edited by KaRLiToS - 1/13/13 at 9:33am
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post #35392 of 105801
post #35393 of 105801
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcuestag View Post

Hey guys, do you think 540mm worth of rad space is enough to cool down 2x GTX680 and i7 3930k @ 4.6GHz? While gaming the CPU never breaks above 70ºC and the GPU's never break above ~48ºC with a heavy overclock, this is with both cards at 99% usage. If I just run Prime 95 on the CPU and idle the cards it never reaches above 65ºC. In Folding@Home however, since everything is at 100% usage, it does get a bit toasty, cards go as high as 56ºC on hot nights and CPU goes as high as 78ºC.

I did try adding an extra 120mm rad I had laying around, but it didn't really do anything, so I guess this 540mm rad is still more than enough for my loop?

PS: If it helps, my 3930k is a poor clocker, needs 1.4v for 4.6GHz, but I can't complain since I got it VERY cheap from a friend. tongue.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by KaRLiToS View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by kcuestag View Post

Hey guys, do you think 540mm worth of rad space is enough to cool down 2x GTX680 and i7 3930k @ 4.6GHz? While gaming the CPU never breaks above 70ºC and the GPU's never break above ~48ºC with a heavy overclock, this is with both cards at 99% usage. If I just run Prime 95 on the CPU and idle the cards it never reaches above 65ºC. In Folding@Home however, since everything is at 100% usage, it does get a bit toasty, cards go as high as 56ºC on hot nights and CPU goes as high as 78ºC.

I did try adding an extra 120mm rad I had laying around, but it didn't really do anything, so I guess this 540mm rad is still more than enough for my loop?

PS: If it helps, my 3930k is a poor clocker, needs 1.4v for 4.6GHz, but I can't complain since I got it VERY cheap from a friend. tongue.gif

Hey kcuestag.

In my opinion, the best way to verify if you have enough rad space is not with your CPU or GPUs temperatures. You have to compare your room (or case) ambient temperature and check the delta between the water temperature. At a point, you will add more and more rad space, but water temp can never be UNDER ambient temp. I call that a saturate / professionnal loop wink.gif

If your Ambient: 26'C
and water Temp: 41'C

^This is very average rad space. (Delta = 15'C frown.gif )


If your Ambient: 26'C
and water Temp: 30'C

^This is very good watercooling Loop. (Delta = 4'C biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif )


More INFO! (Click to show)

http://www.overclockers.com/guide-deltat-water-cooling/

Delta T (DT) and Why it’s so Important to Understand it

DT is the foundation of your water cooling loop. The better your DT, the cooler your chips are. In water cooling, DT is simply the difference between the ambient air temperature and the water temperature on the outgoing side of the radiator. Room temperature vs. water temperature: that’s it. You can’t remove all the heat – no system is 100% efficient, nor can you go below ambient room temperature.

When you boot up a powered off, water-cooled PC, the water and your CPU are at room temperature. When you boot the PC up, the chip gets hot very fast. The water moves over the chip, it begins to remove heat, the heat goes to the radiator, and some of the heat is removed. Not all of it can be removed. You have to know a lot of thermodynamics theory deeply (more than me) to know exactly why. The water begins to warm up slowly, and in time it reaches a balance: an equilibrium. Heat is made and heat removed, the loop is stabilized and temperatures will not change.

If you change the room temperature, the load on the loop or your fan speed, the loop needs to readjust. This is when we like to measure our cooling ability – usually 30 minutes at a stable load is long enough to begin to measure. If you increase your cooling capability, the water will get cooler.

Water temperatures in a stabilized loop, amazingly, are very similar anywhere in the loop. There is only a 2-3°C maximum difference between the radiator out temperature and the CPU out temperature; this has been verified by Skinnee. Remember, the water can’t remove all the heat, some is transferred to the air. Your radiator size, efficiency and fans play a big part in this. Look at it this way – it’s a system built on many parts and within the laws of physics. Every part affects the other.

Let’s Talk About What a “Good” DT is

A CPU loop needs a good DT. Under 10°C is just fine, getting closer to 5°C is very nice and important if you want big overclocks. Getting under 5°C is just overdoing it, unless you’re very extreme, need it for benching or just want a challenge. On an average CPU loop shoot for under 10°C and adjust your overclocks to be fine under the temperatures suggested by the CPU and GPU manufacturers.

A GPU loop used to be fine with a 15° to 20°C DT. If you’re a big GPU overclocker, then shoot for 15°C or lower. The Voltage Regulator Modules (VRM) on these new cards can be affected by temps. If you’ve got a GTX 280 like me, don’t worry about it, it’s the 5970 and the GTX480 and other really hot cards that can have this issue. A lower DT might be needed for a GPU loop if you’re a big overclocker – thats up to you as you design your setup.


.

You should post these kind of questions in their own thread kcuestag rather than here but Katlitos has given you a very exacting answer,right on the money.
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post #35394 of 105801
Thanks B-Neg. thumb.gif
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RIVE Koolance Waterblock (VRM and PCH) Feser X-Changer 360 Feser X-Changer 240 Feser X-Changer 480 
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WaterCool MoRA3 Pro with Gentle Typhoon 3 x MCP 655 pumps (With EK top...all serial) 2 x EK FC 1080ti Blocks Windows 7 Ultimate x64 
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post #35395 of 105801
Quote:
Originally Posted by slippyturtle View Post

This is my first post, but I've been a long time lurker. I just wanted to thank those that have contributed to this thread and forum, the info has been invaluable. I couldn't have built this first watercooled rig without the info and ideas I have gotten here. I just finished leak testing and getting everything back together today, and I love it.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)






Great looking loop and build. thumb.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by nyeman View Post

My 3rd WC build using the same case (XPS 730 - love it) and first time post. Saw tubes in the toilet and wonder if that's possible to use. biggrin.gif Checked if anyone did it already to get some ideas and saw a post by Rognin (completely an amazing build!!!). Used TechFlex metal braided sleeves but never went too far with mine just used barbs instead of which he did -> compression fitting (crazy!!! thumb.gif).
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)








My baby (left) wants to be in the pic. biggrin.gif
Very unique. Love the old school XPS. biggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaca View Post

Hi to all comunity OCN.

This is my contribution to OCN and all of you guys!
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)









Hope you enjoy this build like i does thumb.gif
Wow! Decked out with Di-Noc....love it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by minicooper1 View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Those white BP fittings are so smexy.
post #35396 of 105801
Wish I had a way of measuring the water temperature, I did have a display I bought from Aquatuning but I ended up cutting the cable by mistake. lachen.gif
    
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post #35397 of 105801
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcuestag View Post

Wish I had a way of measuring the water temperature, I did have a display I bought from Aquatuning but I ended up cutting the cable by mistake. lachen.gif
Do you have a Lamptron controller with temp sensors? Any 2pin sensor works with them.

Or you could,you know,drop a thermometer in the fluid,its doenst have to be a sensor.....
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post #35398 of 105801
Ok this will work out as my loop order? smile.gif Sorry if this wrong thread smile.gif
post #35399 of 105801
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr one View Post

Ok this will work out as my loop order? smile.gif Sorry if this wrong thread smile.gif

No.

Res before pump.
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post #35400 of 105801
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcuestag View Post

Wish I had a way of measuring the water temperature, I did have a display I bought from Aquatuning but I ended up cutting the cable by mistake. lachen.gif


This is my temperature sensor, you just need a T-Block and a temp sensor

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_618&products_id=24839




http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24759




I also added some spacers not to affect the flow with the sensor pin (as you can see in the pic) (This is my external back radiator)



Edited by KaRLiToS - 1/13/13 at 10:08am
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WaterCool MoRA3 Pro with Gentle Typhoon 3 x MCP 655 pumps (With EK top...all serial) 2 x EK FC 1080ti Blocks Windows 7 Ultimate x64 
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Asus ROG Swift PG348Q (3440x1440 @100hz) CrossOver 27Q Led-P Logitech G15 EVGA SuperNova 1600T2 (Titanium) 
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Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
3 TB Seagate OCZ Vertex 4 256GB Crucial M4 128GB ADATA SX900 128GB 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
RIVE Koolance Waterblock (VRM and PCH) Feser X-Changer 360 Feser X-Changer 240 Feser X-Changer 480 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
WaterCool MoRA3 Pro with Gentle Typhoon 3 x MCP 655 pumps (With EK top...all serial) 2 x EK FC 1080ti Blocks Windows 7 Ultimate x64 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Asus ROG Swift PG348Q (3440x1440 @100hz) CrossOver 27Q Led-P Logitech G15 EVGA SuperNova 1600T2 (Titanium) 
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