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post #36171 of 105801
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crooksy View Post

I think that I'm the only one who likes the look of the newer EK stuff. I have a feeling that my build won't be too popular!

Well, I didn't buy my parts based only on looks, but rather performance and results so I too have nearly all EK water blocks for both my CPUs (EK "Full Nickel") and GPUs (EK FTW+) in my build. My graphic card water blocks are not really visible with the way things are mounted so you can't see the bottom, only the side ports where the tubes are mainly. I will be posting once I am done a build log of a very LARGE Mountain Mods workstation so you can at least know they are there. smile.gif
post #36172 of 105801
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKHunt View Post

I updated my rig and changed cases and colorschemes (and mobos, and soundcards, and RAM) so I guess here's an update.

jwS8doN4x4CBk.jpg Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

jVX0ZQWEEj8OQ.jpg

jbtXNqUWBFY1o8.jpg
I think it will look better with shorter tubings.
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post #36173 of 105801
I'm have been tirelessly working on my build for the last 12 hours, I soldered my MDPC 3-pin connectors to the circuit boards I purchased yesterday and have covered them in 3M's Carbon Fiber DI-NOC! Now before I get ahead of myself here I have Mayhem Extreme Biocide, but don't I need something to prevent that greenish corrosion buildup in my radiators copper and brass construction!

I don't want to run premixed coolant because coolants increase temps, isn't there some sort of corrosion concentrate to add to the distilled water? I'm shocked that no one has developed a corrosion concentrate alongside the various types of Biocide, can anyone recommend such a corrosion concentrate that won't take up to much water volume within my loop?

My first ever soldering job on a PCB using my Hakko FX-888, not bad for a first timer!







Edited by Systemlord - 1/23/13 at 10:32pm
post #36174 of 105801
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

I'm have been tirelessly working on my build for the last 12 hours, I soldered my MDPC 3-pin connectors to the circuit boards I purchased yesterday and have covered them in 3M's Carbon Fiber DI-NOC! Now before I get ahead of myself here I have Mayhem Extreme Biocide, but don't I need something to prevent that greenish corrosion buildup in my radiators copper and brass construction!

I don't want to run premixed coolant because coolants increase temps, isn't there some sort of corrosion concentrate to add to the distilled water? I'm shocked that no one has developed a corrosion concentrate alongside the various types of Biocide, can anyone recommend such a corrosion concentrate that won't take up to much water volume within my loop?



Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


How do those work? Can you control the fan speed?

Jeffinslaw
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post #36175 of 105801
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffinslaw View Post

How do those work? Can you control the fan speed?

Jeffinslaw

I'll be running the 90* degree leads from the boards to my Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 Pro, 8 fans split into 2 fan channels 4 fans per radiators. The other board will power my case fan via my Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 Pro, the last two channels will monitor both my PMP-450's RPM. I also have a Flow 400 MPS flow meter that will read my loops GPM.
post #36176 of 105801
Hey guys currently working on working my way through the entire thread, but I'm only at post 4414, pretty damn amazed at what everyone has been posting.
post #36177 of 105801
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crooksy View Post

I'm not sure whether to go for red Masterkleer or clear Tygon tubing and let the dye in the Mayhems X1 give the colour instead, what do you guys reckon would look best and last over time?
i would go for tygon, masterkleer should take coloer from the coolant pretty fast, and tygon are so Nice to work with it bends so well
Edited by nostra - 1/24/13 at 12:25am
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post #36178 of 105801
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

I'm have been tirelessly working on my build for the last 12 hours, I soldered my MDPC 3-pin connectors to the circuit boards I purchased yesterday and have covered them in 3M's Carbon Fiber DI-NOC! Now before I get ahead of myself here I have Mayhem Extreme Biocide, but don't I need something to prevent that greenish corrosion buildup in my radiators copper and brass construction!

I don't want to run premixed coolant because coolants increase temps, isn't there some sort of corrosion concentrate to add to the distilled water? I'm shocked that no one has developed a corrosion concentrate alongside the various types of Biocide, can anyone recommend such a corrosion concentrate that won't take up to much water volume within my loop?

My first ever soldering job on a PCB using my Hakko FX-888, not bad for a first timer! [/B Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


0[/IMG]



You'll need to either break the tach signal trace after the first fan, or dissconnect the tach lead from the fan connector for all but the one you want to use as an RPM source..

The tach signal on fans is just basically 2 contact closures to ground (optical or magnetic) per revolution.

Whatever device you're using to monitor the RPM, pulls the tach line high thru a resistor, and then counts the times it's pulled low, (goes to ground).

If you connect multiple fans, it'll count a combined number of lows and attribute them to one fan and read wayyy high.


I use circuit boards to break out power to my fans, but I use ones I custom make so that I can use jumper blocks to select either one of the fan connectors on that board, or to get the tach signal from a second board that's designed to be cascaded from the first.


Below is a pic of the board with the traces visible thru it. The upper and lower halves of the board are identicle for the top row of fans and the bottom row of fans.

Assume the left most horizontal connections go to the controller, and the rightmost horizontal connectors go to a second board in a cascade, the jumpers are set to take the tach signal from the left most top and bottom fan connection.

If the jumpers are on the rear sets of pins, then the tach signal is derived from the rightmost horizontal connectors, which would normally be connected back to another board if you're using more than 6 fans per rad. . . although you could run one 480 / 560 fan set from one board.


The di-noc looks nice, but with the pins sticking up, do you have any clearance issues?

That's why I designed mine with all the connectors as "low profile"

Looks like we're both running a similar train of thought here.


Darlene




Edited by IT Diva - 1/24/13 at 1:04am
post #36179 of 105801
IT DIVA

your going to have to do a few things to make the case stronger this is what I did for my HAF X

Here it is in the case for final measurements before primer/ paint/ rivet






Edited by _REAPER_ - 1/24/13 at 1:21am
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post #36180 of 105801
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

You'll need to either break the tach signal trace after the first fan, or dissconnect the tach lead from the fan connector for all but the one you want to use as an RPM source..

The tach signal on fans is just basically 2 contact closures to ground (optical or magnetic) per revolution.

Whatever device you're using to monitor the RPM, pulls the tach line high thru a resistor, and then counts the times it's pulled low, (goes to ground).

If you connect multiple fans, it'll count a combined number of lows and attribute them to one fan and read wayyy high.


I use circuit boards to break out power to my fans, but I use ones I custom make so that I can use jumper blocks to select either one of the fan connectors on that board, or to get the tach signal from a second board that's designed to be cascaded from the first.


Below is a pic of the board with the traces visible thru it. The upper and lower halves of the board are identicle for the top row of fans and the bottom row of fans.

Assume the left most horizontal connections go to the controller, and the rightmost horizontal connectors go to a second board in a cascade, the jumpers are set to take the tach signal from the left most top and bottom fan connection.

If the jumpers are on the rear sets of pins, then the tach signal is derived from the rightmost horizontal connectors, which would normally be connected back to another board if you're using more than 6 fans per rad. . . although you could run one 480 / 560 fan set from one board.


The di-noc looks nice, but with the pins sticking up, do you have any clearance issues?

That's why I designed mine with all the connectors as "low profile"

Looks like we're both running a similar train of thought here.


Darlene


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I think I'll cut the signal pins on my power distribution boards except for the first one. I never thought about doing all of the 3-pin fan connectors low profile 90 degrees, there's no clearance issues as my STH10 has so much room behind the motherboard in the lower corner where it will be out of sight just an inch in front of the SSD cage just about the radiators. I really enjoyed wrapping those board holders with that di-noc, I love how well it sticks to anything strongly! That stuff will rip my whiskers off my face.

Tomorrow I'll work on all custom fan extensions as each individual cable needs to be different, Aqua Bus 4-pin cable will be of a custom length for my Flow 400 MPS sensor. Then I'll mount the second power distribution board in the lower front corner for case fans, the last two channels on my Aquaero Pro 5 to monitor my dual PMP-450's. Got alot of sleeving to do tomorrow!
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