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post #36661 of 106060
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCModderMike View Post

So you want to go with something like this?

I wouldn't even bother.
Would probably be better off doing something like I did if you want to go all out like that and run a 360 up top and a 360 in the front.

But if you have 3 hard drive it would be a real PIA. I had two SSDs which I was able to stick behind the motherboard tray, and them laid my one HDD down at the bottom behind the front radiator.
Did you mod any of the stuff there?
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post #36662 of 106060
Can i paint the water with temepera paint?
 
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post #36663 of 106060
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Janac View Post

Can i paint the water with temepera paint?

No.

It will clog badly,use a dye,paint wont hold in suspension.
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post #36664 of 106060
My first water cooling setup.. biggrin.gif Next I plan to upgrade GPU and put it under water.




Edited by chizijs - 2/2/13 at 11:44am
    
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post #36665 of 106060
Since someone likes to be negative at every opportunity regarding my stretched case build, I don't bring it up much here, but since this thread is about water cooling and pics, I wanted to show the lighted res mod I came up with that is equally applicable for any bitspower res that has a similarly sized CCFL tube available.


Essentially, I'm putting a 1/2" OD acrylic tube down the center of the res, using a multi link w/ male thread at the end with the single centered G1/4 threaded end cap, and a female threaded multi link with a plug made to hold an LED at the end with the tri ported end cap. The recess for the LED is important.

My resevoirs are the 400mm ones, that I'm planning to set up in a horizontal position, but this mod would work just as well with vertical resevoirs, or shorter ones.

Make the tube between 24 mm and 25 mm shorter than the nominal length of the res. Mine are 375 mm to fit the 400 mm res. A 250 res would use a 225 mm tube length.

Using a plug in the multi link at the end of the light tube that has a recess for an LED is important because there is a locating pin installed into the center of the tri-ported end cap to support the free end of the light tube.

I use a short piece of 6-32 stainless steel cut from a socket head cap screw for the locating pin that screws into the drilled and tapped end cap.


To give an idea of what it looks like, here's a pic of the first of the three with just distilled water:




And here it is with Mayhems Aurora, and the additional "Jet Tube" mod in testing:




Now there's a couple ways to use Bitspower multi link fittings with 1/2" acrylic tube:

The usual way is to use a rotary tool and sanding drum, and to slightly reduce the OD of the tube untill it fits in the fitting.

I opted for a different method, that is a LOT tighter and Much less likely to blowout or leak, but it takes longer, and requires a drill press and vise, and a bench belt sander helps a lot.


I bore the fittings out to accept the 1/2" tubing while keeping the original O rings, which makes for a fit like a baseball in a garden hose.

I then have to bevel and polish the acrylic tube ends to be able to force them back in the fittings so the O rings hold the tube captive.


Boring the fittings can be done on a drill press with a good setup. I found that doing it in 3 incremental steps works best with a minimal amout of de-burring of the o ring grooves required. Start with 15/32", then 31/64", and finally, 1/2". Be sure to use fresh sharp drills for best results.

I put some extensions in my drill press vise to get the fittings in position, and it allows for swappping out each one as it's drilled for the next one. By using an additional male to male, I can swap to the female threaded multilinks without changing my setup.


Here's my setup drilling out the multi links:




Here they are freshly drilled, but haven't had the grooves deburred yet:




Here's all the parts layed out:




Close up of the end caps and multi links with the grooves deburred, but no o rings installed yet, and the locating pins in the tri ported end caps:




Tube end bevelled and polished to be able to get it into the fitting:




Here's the o rings reinstalled back into the multi link fittings:




Partially assembled:




Fully assembled with CCFL in the tube:




And finally, with the CCFLs on, and with the pumps that go with them:






Hope you like my mod, and are encouraged to try it for yourself,

Darlene
Edited by IT Diva - 2/2/13 at 12:39pm
post #36666 of 106060
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atham View Post

Did you mod any of the stuff there?
I did.
post #36667 of 106060
Darlene:

that res is amazing. Really awesome.
Question about the build. Is this going to be an actual PC to use, or just more like a show build? I only ask because I recall Mayhems saying the aurora coolant was mainly for show builds
post #36668 of 106060
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Hope you like my mod, and are encouraged to try it for yourself,

Darlene

That looks brilliant, I'll most definitely be attempting that
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post #36669 of 106060
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyg0od33 View Post

Darlene:

that res is amazing. Really awesome.
Question about the build. Is this going to be an actual PC to use, or just more like a show build? I only ask because I recall Mayhems saying the aurora coolant was mainly for show builds


At some point I'll likely switch to pastels, but I'll surely be taking tons of nice pics when it's ready for prime time, and Aurora just sets it off.

Who knows, maybe NZXT will want to buy it and tote it around to the shows . . . . a D Wood pedestal with powered running gear inside with wheels so it could be driven like a giant RC car . . . Could it get any more insane than that!

Darlene
post #36670 of 106060
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Since someone likes to be negative at every opportunity regarding my stretched case build, I don't bring it up much here, but since this thread is about water cooling and pics, I wanted to show the lighted res mod I came up with that is equally applicable for any bitspower res that has a similarly sized CCFL tube available.


Essentially, I'm putting a 1/2" OD acrylic tube down the center of the res, using a multi link w/ male thread at the end with the single centered G1/4 threaded end cap, and a female threaded multi link with a plug made to hold an LED at the end with the tri ported end cap. The recess for the LED is important.

My resevoirs are the 400mm ones, that I'm planning to set up in a horizontal position, but this mod would work just as well with vertical resevoirs, or shorter ones.

Make the tube between 24 mm and 25 mm shorter than the nominal length of the res. Mine are 375 mm to fit the 400 mm res. A 250 res would use a 225 mm tube length.

Using a plug in the multi link at the end of the light tube that has a recess for an LED is important because there is a locating pin installed into the center of the tri-ported end cap to support the free end of the light tube.

I use a short piece of 6-32 stainless steel cut from a socket head cap screw for the locating pin that screws into the drilled and tapped end cap.


To give an idea of what it looks like, here's a pic of the first of the three with just distilled water:





Now there's a couple ways to use Bitspower multi link fittings with 1/2" acrylic tube:

The usual way is to use a rotary tool and sanding drum, and to slightly reduce the OD of the tube untill it fits in the fitting.

I opted for a different method, that is a LOT tighter and Much less likely to blowout or leak, but it takes longer, and requires a drill press and vise, and a bench belt sander helps a lot.


I bore the fittings out to accept the 1/2" tubing while keeping the original O rings, which makes for a fit like a baseball in a garden hose.

I then have to bevel and polish the acrylic tube ends to be able to force them back in the fittings so the O rings hold the tube captive.


Boring the fittings can be done on a drill press with a good setup. I found that doing it in 3 incremental steps works best with a minimal amout of de-burring of the o ring grooves required. Start with 15/32", then 31/64", and finally, 1/2". Be sure to use fresh sharp drills for best results.

I put some extensions in my drill press vise to get the fittings in position, and it allows for swappping out each one as it's drilled for the next one. By using an additional male to male, I can swap to the female threaded multilinks without changing my setup.


Hope you like my mod, and are encouraged to try it for yourself,

Darlene

I don't think i have the materials or skill necessary to do that ... will you have any for sale? I'd be very interested in the white one ...
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