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post #36671 of 106735
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Since someone likes to be negative at every opportunity regarding my stretched case build, I don't bring it up much here, but since this thread is about water cooling and pics, I wanted to show the lighted res mod I came up with that is equally applicable for any bitspower res that has a similarly sized CCFL tube available.


Essentially, I'm putting a 1/2" OD acrylic tube down the center of the res, using a multi link w/ male thread at the end with the single centered G1/4 threaded end cap, and a female threaded multi link with a plug made to hold an LED at the end with the tri ported end cap. The recess for the LED is important.

My resevoirs are the 400mm ones, that I'm planning to set up in a horizontal position, but this mod would work just as well with vertical resevoirs, or shorter ones.

Make the tube between 24 mm and 25 mm shorter than the nominal length of the res. Mine are 375 mm to fit the 400 mm res. A 250 res would use a 225 mm tube length.

Using a plug in the multi link at the end of the light tube that has a recess for an LED is important because there is a locating pin installed into the center of the tri-ported end cap to support the free end of the light tube.

I use a short piece of 6-32 stainless steel cut from a socket head cap screw for the locating pin that screws into the drilled and tapped end cap.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
To give an idea of what it looks like, here's a pic of the first of the three with just distilled water:




And here it is with Mayhems Aurora, and the additional "Jet Tube" mod in testing:




Now there's a couple ways to use Bitspower multi link fittings with 1/2" acrylic tube:

The usual way is to use a rotary tool and sanding drum, and to slightly reduce the OD of the tube untill it fits in the fitting.

I opted for a different method, that is a LOT tighter and Much less likely to blowout or leak, but it takes longer, and requires a drill press and vise, and a bench belt sander helps a lot.


I bore the fittings out to accept the 1/2" tubing while keeping the original O rings, which makes for a fit like a baseball in a garden hose.

I then have to bevel and polish the acrylic tube ends to be able to force them back in the fittings so the O rings hold the tube captive.


Boring the fittings can be done on a drill press with a good setup. I found that doing it in 3 incremental steps works best with a minimal amout of de-burring of the o ring grooves required. Start with 15/32", then 31/64", and finally, 1/2". Be sure to use fresh sharp drills for best results.

I put some extensions in my drill press vise to get the fittings in position, and it allows for swappping out each one as it's drilled for the next one. By using an additional male to male, I can swap to the female threaded multilinks without changing my setup.


Here's my setup drilling out the multi links:




Here they are freshly drilled, but haven't had the grooves deburred yet:




Here's all the parts layed out:




Close up of the end caps and multi links with the grooves deburred, but no o rings installed yet, and the locating pins in the tri ported end caps:




Tube end bevelled and polished to be able to get it into the fitting:




Here's the o rings reinstalled back into the multi link fittings:




Partially assembled:



Fully assembled with CCFL in the tube:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

And finally, with the CCFLs on, and with the pumps that go with them:






Hope you like my mod, and are encouraged to try it for yourself,

Darlene

Im not a fan of your stretched case but i am a fan of homebrew engineering. Nice work,a very good workaround and a good result.

I use those only those res for my own builds,cant beat them.
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post #36672 of 106735
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post




At some point I'll likely switch to pastels, but I'll surely be taking tons of nice pics when it's ready for prime time, and Aurora just sets it off.

Who knows, maybe NZXT will want to buy it and tote it around to the shows . . . . a D Wood pedestal with powered running gear inside with wheels so it could be driven like a giant RC car . . . Could it get any more insane than that!

Darlene

then it would, quite literally, be a stretch limo thumb.gif
post #36673 of 106735
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Im not a fan of your stretched case but i am a fan of homebrew engineering. Nice work,a very good workaround and a good result.

I use those only those res for my own builds,cant beat them.

Thank you very much.

We don't always see aesthetics the same way, but we do usually agree on the engineering and skills demonstrated in a mod, or build.


Darlene
post #36674 of 106735
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Im not a fan of your stretched case but i am a fan of homebrew engineering. Nice work,a very good workaround and a good result.

I use those only those res for my own builds,cant beat them.

Thank you very much.

We don't always see aesthetics the same way, but we do usually agree on the engineering and skills demonstrated in a mod, or build.


Darlene

Indeed we do.
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post #36675 of 106735
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

It didnt corrode it at all,that was plasticizer.

Oh ok, just trying to help smile.gif
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post #36676 of 106735
Just got my first water cooling running.



post #36677 of 106735


 
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post #36678 of 106735
Very nice desk setup you have there cibi. Very minimalist. I like it
post #36679 of 106735
wheee.gif Those old lines are just for leak testing lol. Cause i do not want to cut what is left of my good ones..



Edited by Hokies83 - 2/2/13 at 7:15pm
    
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post #36680 of 106735
Quote:
Originally Posted by dumbazz View Post

I like it.Neet. VRMs and Northbridge if your board is warming up.

Ty... I will not be taking the voltage above 1.45 so I guess the VRM's will be ok as they're military grade lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by morencyam View Post

I have a Sabertooth x58 as well and the NB does seem to get pretty toasty. There was never a block made specifically for this board, but I think a few of the Koolance universal blocks fit. Never tried myself as i really don't like the look of them too much

I noticed that the X58 NB gets pretty hot since I first got the board... much hotter than my old P6T SE which had a much smaller heatsink. When I have the side panel on the HAF the 200mm fan keeps temps in check.

Thanks for the info about the Koolance blocks... will look into it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PinzaC55 View Post

Looks good (particularly lit up) but when I built my WC loop in my HAF-X (I used to have a HAF 932 but sold it because the HAF-X has more space and a black interior) I wanted the tubes to be as inconspicuous as possible so I rotated the pump through 90 degrees so the the inlet faced front and put a 90 degree elbow on the pump then ran the tube along the bottom of the case then through another 90 degree elbow up to the Reservoir then up to the radiator.Somebody said it was a bad idea to have 2 extra joints because it restricts coolant flow but I don't think it has much if any effect.


Ty... I also don't like the gray metal interior of the 932 which has been bugging me for a while now... but with the UV lighting I've just added makes the interior look painted purple as the light floods the whole case interior (very pleased with the finished look).

Very nice build btw and as you said I doubt a couple of 90s would restrict much if at all. I watched a youtube vid before my WC kit arrived done by singularity computers and he had something like 10-15 90 degree fittings installed. It looked wicked but I couldn't help thinking that flow might be restricted. When he filled the loop it seemed to take quite a while to take the coolant out of the res and that was with 2 very good pumps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GO_DnAggLI&list=SPBA1C77A8DA73EB44
 
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