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OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery - Page 5011

post #50101 of 107026
Quote:
Originally Posted by B3L13V3R View Post

[/SPOILER]

Yeah.. I don't get why you guys are doing something different than those that are seeing HUGE results. headscratch.gif

Those pics are enough for me. Once I have the rest of the build figured out here, all these blocks are getting the treatment lowfat mentioned.

there are multiple rivers to get to the same sea.

i guess i just like to take the complicated route. tongue.gif
[ WOMD ] Rainuke
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[ WOMD ] Rainuke
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post #50102 of 107026
@Derick, do you know if ek is still pursuing the compression hard acrylic fittings?

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 100
post #50103 of 107026
guys, i need ur help. im thinking about giving in to ivy bridge e and getting at least 3 290x gpus. idk know the exact tdp for each when overclocked, but lets speculate that a ivy bridge e and 3 amd 290x gpus have a total draw of 1600w of heat. how much rad space would suffice to dissipate this setup while being silent? lets say, fans running no more than 1200rpm? thoughts?
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post #50104 of 107026
Quote:
Originally Posted by Egami View Post

To polish or not to polish...


Polish 100%
REAPER
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REAPER
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post #50105 of 107026
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killa Cam View Post

guys, i need ur help. im thinking about giving in to ivy bridge e and getting at least 3 290x gpus. idk know the exact tdp for each when overclocked, but lets speculate that a ivy bridge e and 3 amd 290x gpus have a total draw of 1600w of heat. how much rad space would suffice to dissipate this setup while being silent? lets say, fans running no more than 1200rpm? thoughts?

A pair of 480 rads? HWLabs SR-1 or UT60?
post #50106 of 107026
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat View Post

You shouldn't need a dremel. I don't think it will save time. The polishing part doesn't take long if you are using the right stuff. Wet sand up to 2000 grit, no need for higher. The wet sanding is the most important part. It should be clear by the time you are done sanding. Then use PlastX to give it a glass like clarity.


Turned out real nice. I might try and source some 2000 grit or higher to polish my case. Highest I can find is 1200 grit and is no where near fine enough.
    
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post #50107 of 107026
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestache View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat View Post

You shouldn't need a dremel. I don't think it will save time. The polishing part doesn't take long if you are using the right stuff. Wet sand up to 2000 grit, no need for higher. The wet sanding is the most important part. It should be clear by the time you are done sanding. Then use PlastX to give it a glass like clarity.


Turned out real nice. I might try and source some 2000 grit or higher to polish my case. Highest I can find is 1200 grit and is no where near fine enough.

http://amzn.com/B0002MSY90
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post #50108 of 107026
I use that same paper for ensuring water pump & thermostat housings are smooth and clean on vehicles I work on (before installing new components). So that's more than enough to polish up an acrylic block/cover.
Edited by DarthBaggins - 9/28/13 at 11:42pm
   
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post #50109 of 107026
To get it so clear, do you guys sand and polish the inside part of waterblocks aswell? I mean the part in contact with the copper.
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post #50110 of 107026
i would go for an MoRa
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