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post #50351 of 102276
im tellin ya, he shaves with a lawnmower tongue.gif
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post #50352 of 102276
Quote:
Originally Posted by szeged View Post

im tellin ya, he shaves with a lawnmower tongue.gif

Haha hilarious
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post #50353 of 102276
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamaican Reaper View Post

After weeks of bothering you guys about bits and pieces do's and don'ts i have finally finished my build....Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who assisted me when i needed it....





Nice and clean thumb.gif


If I was going to add something, it would be a second pair of fans on the lower rad. . . . . . and maybe go to a taller res tube.


As something to watch for and be thinking about;

I could not tell for sure from the pic, but you want to make very sure that you have the tube that goes down inside the res screwed in under the top fitting from the CPU block, and that you keep the coolant level well above the outlet of that tube.


The reason is that gravity is working against you. . . .

The line from the top rad to the CPU block, and the tube from the CPU block to the res, are going to want to drain down into the res and you'll be left with air pockets in your tubing and CPU block at every start up.

The internal tube in the res is what prevents that as long as there's little air space and the tube outlets below the coolant level, . . . . . a taller res would be a bit more fail safe.


Darlene
Edited by IT Diva - 10/4/13 at 4:33am
post #50354 of 102276
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Nice and clean thumb.gif


If I was going to add something, it would be a second pair of fans on the lower rad. . . . . . and maybe go to a taller res tube.


As something to watch for and be thinking about;

I could not tell for sure from the pic, but you want to make very sure that you have the tube that goes down inside the res screwed in under the top fitting from the CPU block, and that you keep the coolant level well above the outlet of that tube.


The reason is that gravity is working against you. . . .

The line from the top rad to the CPU block, and the tube from the CPU block to the res, are going to want to drain down into the res and you'll be left with air pockets in your tubing and CPU block at every start up.

The internal tube in the res is what prevents that as long as there's little air space and the tube outlets below the coolant level, . . . . . a taller res would be a bit more fail safe.


Darlene
Thanks for the adivice,still new to this so whatever help i can get i'm grateful,also i had planned on getting a bigger res but the 250mm just seemed too huge and the 150 that i wanted just wasnt available at the shops here,so i just went with the 80 for now until the 150 comes back in stock,also will be adding 2 more fans to the bottom rad like you mentioned just need a fan controller thats better than what i've got now....Thx again for your time and advice....
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post #50355 of 102276
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamaican Reaper View Post

Thanks for the adivice,still new to this so whatever help i can get i'm grateful,also i had planned on getting a bigger res but the 250mm just seemed too huge and the 150 that i wanted just wasnt available at the shops here,so i just went with the 80 for now until the 150 comes back in stock,also will be adding 2 more fans to the bottom rad like you mentioned just need a fan controller thats better than what i've got now....Thx again for your time and advice....

Also the bottom RAD to PUMP tubing looks a bit kinked from this angle, is it?
     
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post #50356 of 102276
Quote:
Originally Posted by PedroC1999 View Post

Also the bottom RAD to PUMP tubing looks a bit kinked from this angle, is it?
It's just the turn i made,no kinks thought i had an extra fitting then realized i didn't so just used what i had to make the turn,but kink free so i'm happy....
Just Add Water
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Bitspower 150 mulit z and Fittings XSPC RayStorm CPU Waterblock for Intel 11 x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 Windows 7  
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Just Add Water
(24 items)
 
Wife's Rig....
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Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Samsung 830 (128GB) + 840 Evo (250GB) Seagate 1TB Lamptron FC5 V2 Fan Controller 2 x XSPC Razor GTX Titan / 780 Waterblock 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
1 x EX 360 / 1 x EX 240 Radiator XSPC D5 Vario Pump with Front Cover EK D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing Red 7/... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Bitspower 150 mulit z and Fittings XSPC RayStorm CPU Waterblock for Intel 11 x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 Windows 7  
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Qnix QX2710 Evolution II @ 102Hz microsoft wireless Corsair AX 860 Corsair 750D 
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post #50357 of 102276
I had the exact same kind of tubing run from my pump to my old 7970 block, he's fine smile.gif

-Zepp
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HardwareLabs BlackIce SR-1 360MM  HardwareLabs BlackIce SR-1 560MM  BItspower Black Mod Kit XSPC D5 Vario 
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Bitspower 150mm Reservoir (Acrylic base, clear ... (X14) Bitspower X47 Acrylic Fittings (Matte Bla... (X3) Bitspower Dual Rotary Snake Fittings (Matt... (X4) Bitspower 90* Angled Fittings (Matte Black) 
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post #50358 of 102276
Quote:
Originally Posted by Striker36 View Post

I got a box in the mail today wheee.gif

the first parts on my second adventure into water cooling!


now my only problem is that I have no idea what sort of fans work well with EX type radiators... I seem to remember seeing somewhere that high static pressure fans seem to work well with them. does that make since? it does in my head given the double fin nature of them causing lots of restriction......

THAT URS!?
post #50359 of 102276
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamaican Reaper View Post

After weeks of bothering you guys about bits and pieces do's and don'ts i have finally finished my build....Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who assisted me when i needed it....





Nice and clean thumb.gif


If I was going to add something, it would be a second pair of fans on the lower rad. . . . . . and maybe go to a taller res tube.


As something to watch for and be thinking about;

I could not tell for sure from the pic, but you want to make very sure that you have the tube that goes down inside the res screwed in under the top fitting from the CPU block, and that you keep the coolant level well above the outlet of that tube.


The reason is that gravity is working against you. . . .

The line from the top rad to the CPU block, and the tube from the CPU block to the res, are going to want to drain down into the res and you'll be left with air pockets in your tubing and CPU block at every start up.

The internal tube in the res is what prevents that as long as there's little air space and the tube outlets below the coolant level, . . . . . a taller res would be a bit more fail safe.


Darlene

Or make an "anti bubble tube" or whatever they are called in the res. I had one of those pump red combo and in the lid the thread should go all the way through and you can screw a fitting on the inside of the rest. Put a bard or a compression or what ever you have there and stick a short piece of tubing on it so it sticks bellow the top line of the water. This way you wount cause unneed turbulence and splashing in your loop. It will stop bubble and make it quieter.
post #50360 of 102276
Quote:
Originally Posted by animal0307 View Post

Or make an "anti bubble tube" or whatever they are called in the res. I had one of those pump red combo and in the lid the thread should go all the way through and you can screw a fitting on the inside of the rest. Put a bard or a compression or what ever you have there and stick a short piece of tubing on it so it sticks bellow the top line of the water. This way you wount cause unneed turbulence and splashing in your loop. It will stop bubble and make it quieter.


That's exactly what I was hoping to achieve! I've been trying to find out if it were possible. I see that EK reservoirs have this capability, but I'm probably going to go with a Koolance res/pump combo. Glad to finally hear that somebody has done this.
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