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post #51821 of 107129
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyphon View Post


Just because it comes with a 3-pin fan header doesn't mean you should connect it to the mobo fan header.

I'd move it off the mobo header asap and get it connected straight to the PSU. As IT Diva said, the mobo isn't intended to deliver that much current and you will probably burn out the poor regulator chip in relatively short order
I planned to connect the pump to controller (already on it's way) But still some question: if the chip burns do I lose all 3pin headers or just that where pump is connected to? If im running the pump @ 70% (8.4v) does that mean that it needs over 2 amps?
Edited by RickRockerr - 10/30/13 at 2:07pm
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post #51822 of 107129
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickRockerr View Post

I planned to connect the pump to controller (already on it's way) But still some question: if the chip burns do I lose all 3pin headers or just that where pump is connected to? If im running the pump @ 70% (8.4v) does that mean that it needs over 2 amps?

It would depend on how many outputs the same chip has whether or not it'd burn out the 1 output or multiple.

Most fans draw less than 0.1A (AP-15 are like 0.085 and Noiseblockers are like 0.08 for reference)
Edited by cyphon - 10/30/13 at 2:30pm
post #51823 of 107129
Connecting a 4 pin to a 3 pin header would not be a good idea. This is due to the fact that most of them actually use voltage regulation to control the speed of the devices connected to them. You’ll need to find a fan controller that specifies that it uses PWM without any kind of voltage modulation. A PWM controlled device that is being controlled via voltage regulation won’t last long and will probably create some clicking noises as well.
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post #51824 of 107129
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiLd FyeR View Post

Connecting a 4 pin to a 3 pin header would not be a good idea. This is due to the fact that most of them actually use voltage regulation to control the speed of the devices connected to them. You’ll need to find a fan controller that specifies that it uses PWM without any kind of voltage modulation. A PWM controlled device that is being controlled via voltage regulation won’t last long and will probably create some clicking noises as well.

I can verify this. We've seen this happen with our PWM controlled pumps when they're used with voltage regulation. They start to make clicking noises and they die much quicker than if they were used with a proper PWM controller or motherboard header. For this reason we recommend connecting them directly to the CPU fan header on your motherboard because those are the ones that are guaranteed to actually offer PWM control. Most of the other headers on your motherboard only offer voltage regulation. This is even if they have four pins on the header. The only PWM fan controller out there right now that offers true PWM control is the Aquaero.
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post #51825 of 107129
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiLd FyeR View Post

Connecting a 4 pin to a 3 pin header would not be a good idea. This is due to the fact that most of them actually use voltage regulation to control the speed of the devices connected to them. You’ll need to find a fan controller that specifies that it uses PWM without any kind of voltage modulation. A PWM controlled device that is being controlled via voltage regulation won’t last long and will probably create some clicking noises as well.


Be wary not to confuse the issue . . . .

There is no 4 pin, PWM device in use here. . . . It is Not a 35X, it's just a vanilla 18W DDC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by WiLd FyeR View Post

Connecting a 4 pin to a 3 pin header would not be a good idea. This is due to the fact that most of them actually use voltage regulation to control the speed of the devices connected to them. You’ll need to find a fan controller that specifies that it uses PWM without any kind of voltage modulation. A PWM controlled device that is being controlled via voltage regulation won’t last long and will probably create some clicking noises as well.

I can verify this. We've seen this happen with our PWM controlled pumps when they're used with voltage regulation. They start to make clicking noises and they die much quicker than if they were used with a proper PWM controller or motherboard header. For this reason we recommend connecting them directly to the CPU fan header on your motherboard because those are the ones that are guaranteed to actually offer PWM control. Most of the other headers on your motherboard only offer voltage regulation. This is even if they have four pins on the header. The only PWM fan controller out there right now that offers true PWM control is the Aquaero.

This is good info, but could be confusing to the case at hand.


The DDC pump should ideally be on a fan controller channel with a 30W or greater rating to be sure it operates conservatively and has headroom for startup loading.


Darlene
post #51826 of 107129
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Be wary not to confuse the issue . . . .

There is no 4 pin, PWM device in use here. . . . It is Not a 35X, it's just a vanilla 18W DDC.
This is good info, but could be confusing to the case at hand.


The DDC pump should ideally be on a fan controller channel with a 30W or greater rating to be sure it operates conservatively and has headroom for startup loading.


Darlene

Very good point Darlene. Thank you for including that because I obviously forgot to mention it in my post. Being that this isn't a PWM pump the information that I gave really doesn't apply. For those that have a PWM controllable pump though, you might want to consider how you're going to power it.
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post #51827 of 107129
So something like an MCP35X goes to Molex + CPU fan header, correct?
post #51828 of 107129
Quote:
Originally Posted by geggeg View Post

So something like an MCP35X goes to Molex + CPU fan header, correct?

Yes. The Molex gives it power and the fan header is for the RPM Feedback and PWM Signal
    
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post #51829 of 107129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoggy View Post









Yes, there is Hawaii inside coolsmiley02.gif



Im so happy that i did not open my new nickel block from you guys as yet


-look out for it in the post

-mine does not have Hawaii in it

-manufacturers fault i fear.

Time for a RMA Shog tongue.gif
post #51830 of 107129
They haven't even released that block yet =P

It's up on their site but it hasn't been released yet. And the Nickel version's coming out like 2 weeks after the copper version according to Shoggy. That's the 290x block
    
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CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Alphacool ST30 240 3 x Phobya NB E-Loops (1600RPM) Alphacool UT60 120 (White Edition) 7 x Gentle Typhoon AP-00 (2150) 
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3 x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 6 x Phobya G1/4 Inline Temp Sensor Coupler (2 P... Aquacomputer G1/4 High Flow Meter Swiftech MCP35x 
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CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Alphacool ST30 240 3 x Phobya NB E-Loops (1600RPM) Alphacool UT60 120 (White Edition) 7 x Gentle Typhoon AP-00 (2150) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
3 x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 6 x Phobya G1/4 Inline Temp Sensor Coupler (2 P... Aquacomputer G1/4 High Flow Meter Swiftech MCP35x 
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