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post #57721 of 106459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post

Don't forget to tilt the machine on all different axis to help air escape the loop to the res.


Been doing that occasionally, it's been pumping for a few hours as well. I know I need to probably hook up my fan controller to the pump as well so I can have more flow control.
 
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post #57722 of 106459
The seconds res will result in a pressure drop as you should expect, however, it is likely a small enough one that it probably will not matter too much to your flow. However, the second res must be completely filled

That being said, I wouldn't use a second res unless there was a really good reason to. Better to not over complicate things thumb.gif
post #57723 of 106459
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

you dont have to apologize for your loop and what you do with your pc. its yours. too many people wanting to please others in this thread and in life.
Not trying to please anyone,just trying to understand lunaP's method.
Edited by waveaddict - 1/5/14 at 10:31pm
post #57724 of 106459
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post

Everything in ya PC radiates heat...... the chartes are designed around a basis of having a delta T of 10C AND 100% full power all the time.

But .... nothing, even torture tests pull 100% load on every component all the time. So for a loop with CPU, twin GFX cards, MoBo and pump all adding heat to the system, ya pick a % of that max load and try and coll that with the rads.... for an production / gaming box I'd say use 60% as a minimum......if just using 1 item like a CPU, I'd wanna be up to at least 85%. The rest will be radiator by the radiator shroud, reservoir, tubing, and everything else.

Alright thanks.

I will stick to a 240 rad for now then to save on the costs and work.
    
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post #57725 of 106459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamaican Reaper View Post

Quick question,is this done with the machine/rig being on or off...?

Do it gently with the machine on so it pumps the bubbles through to the res. Even if you can't see whether it is bled or not you should be able to hear it, once it stops making noise then you are good to go. But it'll still probably flush tiny bubbles through for a while, even after you've bled it.
post #57726 of 106459
Yeah figured it would have the occasional air bubble for a while, just glad I finally have it up and running under water, thumb.gif
 
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post #57727 of 106459
Well just took my first shot at acrylic bending. redface.gif Needless to say it was less than anything good. I'm getting kinda nervous about this now. lol
Time to watch some tutorials and whatnot. Sure am glad I bought extra tubing for screw ups!
post #57728 of 106459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pimphare View Post

Well just took my first shot at acrylic bending. redface.gif Needless to say it was less than anything good. I'm getting kinda nervous about this now. lol
Time to watch some tutorials and whatnot. Sure am glad I bought extra tubing for screw ups!


exactly what I did, bought double that what my "needs" are and in the end I ended up using almost all of it coz I had to experience it first hand to know exactly how it feels like when bending them, specially the bend I wanted to do connecting from the CPU to my pump/res isn't so easy to do.






Anyways I did update my rig from 7970 to 290X and had to update my tubing.. Got some updated pics up =]





http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1058261/2013-rig-updated-switched-from-hd7970-to-r9-290x#
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post #57729 of 106459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pimphare View Post

Well just took my first shot at acrylic bending. redface.gif Needless to say it was less than anything good. I'm getting kinda nervous about this now. lol
Time to watch some tutorials and whatnot. Sure am glad I bought extra tubing for screw ups!

It's tricky at first but you will get the hang of it and be a pro in no time thumb.gif
post #57730 of 106459
Quote:
Originally Posted by LunaP View Post

Sorry I honestly can't answer because I"m not knowledge of this type, I'm only going off of what I"ve been answered here and people have told me I should be fine w/ it. Hopefully someone will explain it further as one person said earlier that the pump should be in push not pull. So I'm going off that.
Well I was planning on filling it so I guess that works, people are gonna bash this alot but as long as this setup is allowed/works then hopefully someone will take a 2nd look and understand, I apologize if I"m offending anyone in the preliminary phases.


To all

I appreciate feedback just at the same time questions like " how would that even work, don't you know" vs " That might not work because of x and y or have you considered" since I'm still new to WC and appreciate the info I get, so far most answers if not all have been very helpful.

The order of your loop really doesn't make a difference, all that you should be aware of is that you have to be able to fill the bay-res directly.
Just filling your tube-res and start the pump will do nothing but damage the pump since it will be running dry,

Since you're using hard-tubing you definitely won't be able to slide the res a bit forward to fill it, so you need to find another way as to how to go about that.
If your res has multiple ports on the back (so more than just one in and one out) you could use the spare IN port to attatch a (soft) tube which you can elevate and in this way fill your bay-res. Once your loop is filled completely you can remove the tube and close off that port.
If your bay-res only has one IN port and one OUT you'd need to add a T-fitting on the IN-port so you can again attatch a tube. Be aware that you'd also need either a ball-valve or QDC since water will otherwise be gushing out again once you remove your fill-line. (this could also be a problem with the first option)

I could be missing something but I'm afraid these are your only two options to fill your bay-res and thus fill your loop.


Although.. If you have enough room between the top of your res and the top of your case you might be able to connect a tube to the fill-hole of the res. These are mostly not standard G1/4 holes so you might need to make your own..

It's tricky, but definitely do-able.


Oh right, there's a fourth option. I believe you have alphacool rads so plenty of possibilities to connect with those. You'd need to be able to shut off one of the lines of the rad (ball-valve) and connect a tank with distilled that can be slightly pressurized to one of the spare ports of your rad. (again a way to shutoff is needed, either QDC or ball-valve)
Only thing left to do then is open an end-fitting (on the non-rad size of the ball-valve) and start pumping in the water. It will pass through your whole look and fill every cavity with water.

Good luck!
Edited by Jetskyer - 1/6/14 at 1:18am
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