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OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery - Page 5792

post #57911 of 106726
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anoxy View Post

edit: I am dumb.

No, that's not true at all. Once the coolant starts to flow through it the restriction is reduced to nearly nothing. It will also depend on the size of the fittings that you're using on it though and whether or not you are using any elbows on it. Other than that though a reservoir adds practically no restriction to your loop. That's my understanding at least and I'm sure if I'm wrong someone will tell me different.
post #57912 of 106726
Yes, hence the "I am dumb" edit lol. I thought about what I said and it made no sense.
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post #57913 of 106726
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

No, that's not true at all. Once the coolant starts to flow through it the restriction is reduced to nearly nothing. It will also depend on the size of the fittings that you're using on it though and whether or not you are using any elbows on it. Other than that though a reservoir adds practically no restriction to your loop. That's my understanding at least and I'm sure if I'm wrong someone will tell me different.

Sounds about right. blocks/90s are the most restrictive. fittings/tubing, not so much. res, virtually immaterial.
 
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post #57914 of 106726
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post

The reason they do that on the high end gaming boards is so that they can make it compatible with people running high end machines with 3/4-way sli/xfire on a std ATX or EATX boards. Would you rather they put in SO-DIMM slots instead? Or just make all the boards XL-ATX?

The board doesn't necessarily need to have So-dimm slots or be XL-ATX for the added clearance to be made possible though. It would be a nice bonus it that was possible. But i'm sure most users like myself find ways of making it it work anyway. Sawing of portions of the dimm slots of a $350 mobo just to be able to install a $25 backplate is definitely not my kinda thing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

Yes, you can remove the D5 pump and use it with any other D5 pump top / res.

Thanks, good to know. If I do get the pump out however, will a pump top be all I need to get it mounted to the base of a 250ml Res? I'm a newbie at this, so please pardon my ignorance.
Edited by Dzuks - 1/8/14 at 6:18am
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post #57915 of 106726
Quote:
Originally Posted by D33G33 View Post

Hi everyone,

after your kind words here are some more photo's of my R4. Its nothing really special but what probably sets it apart is the dual 180mm radiator in the front which did take some work.

I'm a horrible photographer so please don't criticize too much smile.gif Also the acrylic tubing is quite flawed frown.gif None the less i'm really happy with it and hoping to get some decent clocks out of the GPU.

Full album HERE Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


















I'm really digging your build man!! Nicely executed! cheers.gif
The Koolance fan shroud is complimentary to the case. Is the side panel with the window stock or did you mod it with the nano graphics?
post #57916 of 106726
That R4 build looks great! Quick question what type of fittings did you use going into the bottom? Is that like a bulkhead type fitting? If so who makes it?
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post #57917 of 106726
Yes it looks fantastic.
Quote:
Originally Posted by geggeg View Post

Sidewinder already has prices usually lower than the others, so in a sense the whole website is on "discount"

Yeah Gary says he is "doing what he can to stay competitive". He is a really good guy and I am happy to support his small business (though I can say the same about most if not all of these vendors I've dealt with so far). Just him and his wife these days; used to have some staff he said.
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post #57918 of 106726
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pimphare View Post

I'm really digging your build man!! Nicely executed! cheers.gif
The Koolance fan shroud is complimentary to the case. Is the side panel with the window stock or did you mod it with the nano graphics?

Thanks i'm glad you like it smile.gif The Koolance rad shroud worked out OK, I would have preferred to not use it but there is no way I could have not used it as clearances were so tight. When doing up the top fittings to the front rad they actually rub on the top rad so there is literally 0 space. In stock form the Koolance would have looked odd, after repainting it though it matched perfectly! It was a stock side panel that I had to cut. Some delicate JigSaw and Dremel work followed by a lot of filing...

Quote:
Originally Posted by fa5terba11 View Post

That R4 build looks great! Quick question what type of fittings did you use going into the bottom? Is that like a bulkhead type fitting? If so who makes it?

Yep spot on so they are Primochill Ghost Revolver fittings into Bitspower Bulkhead fittings for the pass-through.
post #57919 of 106726
Would it be a poor choice to re-use a silver killcoil from my previous build?
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post #57920 of 106726
Quote:
Originally Posted by bern43 View Post

Dremel is your friend. Same problem with my Maximus Extreme VI. I had to grind away a portion of the plate by the ram clips and by the I/O panel. It was tight, but it worked. I'll post pics later.
isn't it easier just to cut off the ram clip?
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