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post #58051 of 106436
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post

All this is true, but it would help a bit if more padding was included within the retail box.

They come in a bit of bubble wrap and a cardboard box. Which is about the same as the BI, EK, Swiftech, and XSPC rads I've owned.
post #58052 of 106436
Quote:
Originally Posted by LaBestiaHumana View Post

Yep, it's going right back to PerformancePCs. Can't beleive the box it was sent it.


That looks like someone threw the box off an airplane and jumped on it for good measure
post #58053 of 106436
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyphon View Post

That looks like someone threw the box off an airplane and jumped on it for good measure

Funny thing is that there is no damage on the boxes. It might have been dropped before it was packaged.
post #58054 of 106436
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunderman456 View Post

My question being - is it ok to not have a perfect seal between the compression fittings when securing the hoses?

Yes it is ok in my experience. I suppose some guys have strong enough fingers to tighten them all completely but I sure don't. And yes a wrench is a bad idea as you disovered if only cause it scuffs them (tape over the wrench can help but just makes it more difficult). Only use a wrench if you cant fully tighten the fitting itself into the component as has happened to me on occasion especially in tight spots.

I have never had a tube come off except a bit on one side because of too much bend and even then it did not actually leak.
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post #58055 of 106436
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunderman456 View Post

Since this is my first watercooling set-up, you have to excuse me.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I already asked about how compression fittings should be tightened to the actual hardware. The answer was hand tightening. This is sound advice since the O rubber ring will catch and prevent leaks, so no need to use a tool to tighten. It was too late for me though since I had used a wrench to tighten which caused metal flaking, which is scary. I cleaned the metal shavings as best as I could but I'm hoping that none of these shavings got onto the PCBs. I was also worried that I may have damaged the threads on the CPU and GPU blocks. I had to revisit these in some instances and change the status of the compression fittings and I can safely say that the threads did not suffer any damage. I subsequently used my hand to tighten these, although a bit paranoid, I did use a wrench/face towel to complete a 1/2 twist for additional security which did not cause any metal shavings.

Additionally, someone else also confirmed that one should tighten by hand the compression fittings over the hoses. Again, yesterday while I was connecting the hoses to the compression fittings to get that perfect seal, I could not manage enough hand torque to tighten all the way. Again I was forced to use a wrench. Of course this also caused more metal shavings that I had to clean. Now looking at the watercooling pics in this thread, I see that in many instances there are gaps between the compression fittings over the hoses since they were not always screwed all the way.


I may have the most seal proof custom loop, but will be a pain talking apart for cleaning in the future.

My question being - is it ok to not have a perfect seal between the compression fittings when securing the hoses?

Hand tight is all that's needed. I would never put a wrench on one when tightening it, and if I ever had a compression screwed all the way down tight I'd know that something was wrong, most likely I had the wrong thickness of hose in it. It's not supposed to screw down completely. If you put them on too tight you risk damaging the hose inside and causing a leak, if you don't also damage the compression fitting or whatever it is screwed into. That's especially true for any fittings screwed into acrylic or acetal.

I have had to use a wrench before to remove some compressions that had been on there a while and wouldn't budge. Took apart one of my brother's builds and every one of them was like that, so I ground the ridges on the jaws of a pair of pliers almost smooth and wrapped them in electrical tape (later on I put some heatshrink on them) so that they wouldn't damage the compression collars in the process.

Also, as I did mention yesterday on this topic, I've personally found that ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

Coated palm work gloves are worth their weight in gold imho when assembling a build (or working on anything really, like replacing a faucet or a car battery or ...). They don't cost much, are comfortable and don't get in the way even when working with tiny parts, keep fingerprints off everything, and totally save your fingers from turning into hamburger from twisting and tightening compressions, etc.

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

I've gotten so used to using them that my hands feel naked without them whenever I'm working on pretty much anything. I literally keep new pairs here, there, and everywhere.

Tip: Wear them small-sized / tight-fitting for your hands.

I've found I get a lot better grip grabbing & turning compressions, especially in tight places, when wearing coated work gloves.
post #58056 of 106436
yeah I tightened all my fittings to blocks at hand tight, as I am prone to over tightening things, lol. But remember when you bleed/flush you check for leaks either way too.

Those nitrile dipped gloves are great I go through a pair a month w/ my work since sometimes re-using latex/nitrile gloves can be a pain when in a hurry to put a customer's car back together. thumb.gif
 
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post #58057 of 106436
Cut the AC backplate to fit my RIVBE
So happy it worked out
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


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post #58058 of 106436
Looks great man! Glad you were able to save it!
post #58059 of 106436
I found this cheap bench saw to be very good for cutting acrylic tube. Built quality is obviously not it's forte, but it gets nice clean cuts, fast and easy. I thought Id share.

http://www.harborfreight.com/bench-top-cut-off-saw-42307.html


Edited by LaBestiaHumana - 1/8/14 at 7:45pm
post #58060 of 106436
Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzy1925 View Post

any 4 pin y- cable does the job or only the one you listed?

Bump for you..
sorry I'm not sure, I think it has different pitch than the normal 4-pin but someone more experienced should answer.
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