Originally Posted by Gunderman456
Since this is my first watercooling set-up, you have to excuse me.Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I already asked about how compression fittings should be tightened to the actual hardware. The answer was hand tightening. This is sound advice since the O rubber ring will catch and prevent leaks, so no need to use a tool to tighten. It was too late for me though since I had used a wrench to tighten which caused metal flaking, which is scary. I cleaned the metal shavings as best as I could but I'm hoping that none of these shavings got onto the PCBs. I was also worried that I may have damaged the threads on the CPU and GPU blocks. I had to revisit these in some instances and change the status of the compression fittings and I can safely say that the threads did not suffer any damage. I subsequently used my hand to tighten these, although a bit paranoid, I did use a wrench/face towel to complete a 1/2 twist for additional security which did not cause any metal shavings.
Additionally, someone else also confirmed that one should tighten by hand the compression fittings over the hoses. Again, yesterday while I was connecting the hoses to the compression fittings to get that perfect seal, I could not manage enough hand torque to tighten all the way. Again I was forced to use a wrench. Of course this also caused more metal shavings that I had to clean. Now looking at the watercooling pics in this thread, I see that in many instances there are gaps between the compression fittings over the hoses since they were not always screwed all the way.
I may have the most seal proof custom loop, but will be a pain talking apart for cleaning in the future.
My question being - is it ok to not have a perfect seal between the compression fittings when securing the hoses?
Hand tight is all that's needed. I would never
put a wrench on one when tightening it, and if I ever had a compression screwed all the way down tight I'd know that something was wrong, most likely I had the wrong thickness of hose in it. It's not supposed to screw down completely. If you put them on too tight you risk damaging the hose inside and causing a leak, if you don't also damage the compression fitting or whatever it is screwed into. That's especially true for any fittings screwed into acrylic or acetal.
I have had to use a wrench before to remove some compressions that had been on there a while and wouldn't budge. Took apart one of my brother's builds and every one of them was like that, so I ground the ridges on the jaws of a pair of pliers almost smooth and wrapped them in electrical tape (later on I put some heatshrink on them) so that they wouldn't damage the compression collars in the process.
Also, as I did mention yesterday on this topic, I've personally found that ...
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter Coated palm work gloves
are worth their weight in gold imho when assembling a build (or working on anything really, like replacing a faucet or a car battery or ...). They don't cost much, are comfortable and don't get in the way even when working with tiny parts, keep fingerprints off everything, and totally save your fingers from turning into hamburger from twisting and tightening compressions, etc.
I've gotten so used to using them that my hands feel naked without them whenever I'm working on pretty much anything. I literally keep new pairs here, there, and everywhere.
Tip: Wear them small-sized / tight-fitting for your hands.
I've found I get a lot better grip grabbing & turning compressions, especially in tight places, when wearing coated work gloves.