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post #58131 of 107789
Thanks guys!
 
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BitoHeaven
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post #58132 of 107789
That's a beauty of a PSU ya got there! I'm jelly! thumb.gif
post #58133 of 107789
Finally getting there... ran into a hiccup w/ fittings and apparently primochill revolvers are too big to do SLI so ordered a quick overnight back of SLI connectors (extendables ) other than that if it arrives tomorrow I"ll be ready to leak test.

Samus is staying in here as well as adding the baby metroid and possibly something else and have to do some work for scenery w/o destroying the look.


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post #58134 of 107789
Looking good but I'm still not getting the two reservoirs? You could eliminate both of those long acrylic tubes by just running the top rad back to the top of the tube res and then going out from the bottom of the res...
post #58135 of 107789
He has a bay res/pump combo. I think that pump may have an issue pumping coolant up that tube reservoir though.
post #58136 of 107789
Quote:
Originally Posted by geggeg View Post

He has a bay res/pump combo. I think that pump may have an issue pumping coolant up that tube reservoir though.

There was a big debate on this about 15 pages back or so but it came down to as long as I filled up the Tube res I should be fine.
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post #58137 of 107789
do u need 2 of each ( reservoir and pump) in order to work?
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post #58138 of 107789
Quote:
Originally Posted by LunaP View Post

Finally getting there... ran into a hiccup w/ fittings and apparently primochill revolvers are too big to do SLI so ordered a quick overnight back of SLI connectors (extendables ) other than that if it arrives tomorrow I"ll be ready to leak test.

Samus is staying in here as well as adding the baby metroid and possibly something else and have to do some work for scenery w/o destroying the look.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Looks good LunaP...thumb.gif

I wanted to use revolvers for my SLI connect, but I knew right off it wouldn't work with tri-SLI. I didn't want to use an EK bridge because I didn't want to cover the beauty of the RIV BE mobo... and the nice shiny black EK back plates... with a big EK block. I used 4 Bitspower Adjustable Aqua Link Pipe in parallel, and I think it looks great. Down side, it costs more than an EK SLI bridge.

Anyhow... mine has been been done since new years day... and I love it. I hated waiting so long for the RIV BE... but I think it was worth the wait. Can't wait to see your build up and running LunaP.smile.gif











    
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post #58139 of 107789
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

Those temps are Celsius (freezing is 0 degrees). not Fahrenheit (freezing is 32 degrees), and since none are negative, none are below freezing.

Is this a prank or are you on some kind of fault finding mission with statements like this running from thread to thread ?..... I am finding it somewhat surreal to see an OCN "regular" post a message indicating that they are somehow unaware that a "running CPU" will have higher temperature than the liquid used to cool it. If that were not true, then the term "coolant" would not be a very descriptive label would it ? My coolant is generally a good 40C below my CPU cores when it hits 75C under torture tests..... generally around 1-2C cooler when idling when fans spin down to 400rpm.

1. The statement you are finding fault with says "I hope thatz not a DW loop with water temps are below freezing

2. Your counter says that I'm wrong because no CPU temps are above freezing

Well water temps and CPU temps are two different things and it's generally accepted here on OCN that, laws of thermodynamics not being broken, the latter will always be higher than the former. But before getting to that, lets look at the his image carefully.

3. When I look at the image of his CPU temps I see this label entitled "Minimum" and when I look at it, it says that one CPU core temperature was at some point in time .... a time SINCE the program was loaded ..... 0C..... So when he took the screen shot, it was 1C, at some time previous while the program was running, it was a lil colder at 0C and at when it was shut off and not producing any heat, or even sleeping wouldn't it be colder still.

4. Can we agree then, that an actively running processor is going to be "warmer" than one in a turned off / or "sleeping" machine ? So if the warmed up CPU core is 0C" then before it warmed up, it must have been at a lower temperature.... if it was at a lower temperature than 0C the core must, by definition, have been "below freezing".

5. If ya can't agree to that, let's talk about what the subject of my post being "water temperature" not CPU temperature. If we can agree that the stuff in the loop is called a coolant..... we must also agree that the coolant .... must be "cooler" than the CPU if it's going to serve its function. If the CPU was at 0C and it was producing heat, then isn't the only reason it's not climbing higher because the coolant is of a lower temperature ? Is that not the whole idea of water cooling ? .... the coolant, being of a lower temperature than the CPU, functions to cool the CPU down ? So if the coolant must be cooler than the little heat factory we call the CPU cores, and the core was at 0C at some point, then must it not follow that the coolant must have been lower than 0C ?

6. Right now I am looking at an ambient of 20.1 ..... a "CPU In" coolant temp of 21.3 and a "CPU Out" temp of 21.7..... So I think it's a safe bet that my cores are no cooler than that 21.7 .....so if my box was in that same basement with a core temp of 0C, then I'd have to expect my coolant in to be -0.4 (21.7 - 21.4) while running and drop to ambient when shut down of at best -1.6. (21.7 - 20.1) . Those two numbers are below freezing.
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911 Carrera
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post #58140 of 107789
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunderman456 View Post

I undersatnd that one can use a paper clip to the green and any black wire to power jump the PSU to fill up water loop with coolant for first time.

Except, all the wires on my EVGA 1300w are black. So do I use the paper clip on Power Ok and Ground on the power connector?

I suggest not doing that ..... this is a much safer / easier solution that I picked up from the Singularity Computer guys over on youtube

AC to DC Adapter - 110V AC to 12V DC Converter w/ Standard 4 Pin (5000mA Max)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9106/bus-192/AC_to_DC_Adapter_-_110V_AC_to_12V_DC_Converter_w_Standard_4_Pin_5000mA_Max.html

used it w/ my 35x2 .... no yanking cables no worry or water droplets falling on live PSU.... best $20 I ever spent on puter doodads that don't wind up as part of the build.
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1 x Swiftech 35x2 w/ Heatsink and NB Fan EK -MultiOption RES X3 250 White Acetal Reservoir 5 x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED + 5 x PH-F140SP_BK E22 Rigid 10/12 Acrylic Tubing and Bitspower Ma... 
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911 Carrera
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Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
2 x SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB (2 x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cach... Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blue Ray Writer 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45-420 + 1 x Alphacool ... 
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1 x Swiftech 35x2 w/ Heatsink and NB Fan EK -MultiOption RES X3 250 White Acetal Reservoir 5 x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED + 5 x PH-F140SP_BK E22 Rigid 10/12 Acrylic Tubing and Bitspower Ma... 
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2 x Reeven Six Eyes Fan Controller Windows 7 64 Bit Professional OEM ASUS VG248QE Black 23" 144 Hz Monitor Logitech G19s 920-004985 
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Seasonic X-1250 Phanteks Enthoo Primo Ultimate Chassis Asus RoG GX950 Laser Mouse  Logitech Z5500 
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