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post #58201 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyphon View Post

Yes. Your loop is still not filled. The water rushes back to the res because there is no longer pressure there. Just keep adding water and running the pump until the res level doesn't go down. Then fill it up to like 80-90% and run your leak test. As bubbles escape your blocks they go into the res, so the level will continue to go down until all air is out of the system. Once that happens and you are leak tested, fill the res back up to the 80-90% mark and you are good to go

Why not fill it to as close to 100% as you can?
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Tiny Dancer
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post #58202 of 106449
I revised my loop again. This time all radiator fans are set for filtered push intake. It's a shame to hide them (the fans) because I went to the trouble of painting them to match, but my temps are 3C better than before and I did get into watercooling for performance. It's just afterward I met you guys and got a little caught up in aesthetics. Keeping up with the Jones's I guess. Not complaining! But let me know what you think. I'll take some nice outdoor daylight pics tomorrow but I was excited to share so here's some cell phone pics with improper lighting!



Previous orientations (Click to show)


post #58203 of 106449
Hey guys finally ready to start leaktesting so I'm gonna start dumping in distilled into the front bay res.

Question on this. I'll d/c the PSU cables from the mobo and GPU's temporarily while I do this so it's just the pump running as well as lights, can I leave it on while I slowly pour water in or do I fill the res up a bit, turn it on for 2 seconds to have it suck out then turn it off then repeat?

Also for these XSPC tube resevoires since the label says not to open the top fill cap , can I still do so to fill it up a bit that way I get some steady flow in there? Or just fill the res bay turn it on let it go into the res etc.? Appreciate it.
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post #58204 of 106449
Well since your pump is up there with the bay res you will have to shut the pump off every time the water level in the bay res gets close to empty. But since you have all those massive rads and the extra tube res to fill, I would fill that tube res all the way to the top and let the water level in all the tubing get close to the bay-res level, then start filling and pumping the bay res. Otherwise you're going to be at it for a while, get comfortable and I hope you ordered some take-out because you ain't goin nowhere for a bit. thumb.gif
post #58205 of 106449
Hey guys, got something I'd appreciate some opinions on, which I also posted over in the EK Club, but thought I would ask here as well.

Should I be worried here? I'm telling myself not to be, but you never know - it could be the early stage of something horrible.

I got this block second hand, no idea what the previous owner ran in his loop.







Appreciate your input thumb.gif
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post #58206 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 View Post

Well since your pump is up there with the bay res you will have to shut the pump off every time the water level in the bay res gets close to empty. But since you have all those massive rads and the extra tube res to fill, I would fill that tube res all the way to the top and let the water level in all the tubing get close to the bay-res level, then start filling and pumping the bay res. Otherwise you're going to be at it for a while, get comfortable and I hope you ordered some take-out because you ain't goin nowhere for a bit. thumb.gif

Ha! Took me a few months to get this far what's overnight~ biggrin.gif

I take it its ok to fill up the tube res then from the top then just carefully reseal it using a quarter or something.

Anywhoo, got the cables hooked up, and updated my build log, here's the result thus far~ and yes the metroid is extending out from the wall and has an LED inside it, will be putting an LED inside Samus's weapon as well.
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Sylphiel
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post #58207 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by friskiest View Post

Hey guys, got something I'd appreciate some opinions on, which I also posted over in the EK Club, but thought I would ask here as well.

Should I be worried here? I'm telling myself not to be, but you never know - it could be the early stage of something horrible.

I got this block second hand, no idea what the previous owner ran in his loop.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





Appreciate your input thumb.gif

I can't tell you if it's truly bad for the sake of the block or not, but I can tell you that it looks like oxidation on copper [EDIT: I guess that's nickel plated copper?] that was once wet and is now dry. Perhaps a flushing and scrubbing is in order?

On a lighter note, the pattern of the water channel for that block looks like a little goldfish. I'm not sure why that amuses me but I think it's cute!
Edited by stickg1 - 1/10/14 at 6:44pm
post #58208 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by friskiest View Post

Hey guys, got something I'd appreciate some opinions on, which I also posted over in the EK Club, but thought I would ask here as well.

Should I be worried here? I'm telling myself not to be, but you never know - it could be the early stage of something horrible.

I got this block second hand, no idea what the previous owner ran in his loop. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Appreciate your input thumb.gif


That's the infamous EK nickel plate flaking issue they had on some their old blocks, I have some of the old ones like that also, it doesn't affect the performance of the block, but aesthetically it's ugly.

Three options:

1. Send back to EK to have it replaced, probably at your expense as it's second hand, and definitely out slide it's warranty period.

2. Take the block apart and find a local company that does Electroless Nickel playing and have it replated.

3. Do nothing and just use the thing like it is.

I'm on the fence myself, the blocks I have that are like that are for GTX580's, so I'll probably just use them as is and not worry about it.

Edit: looking closer, I'm not sure I was correct, it looks like it COULD be old coolant trapped between the block and the plexi top. And since that's a Titan block, it might be under warranty still. Sorry if I mislead you in any way.
Edited by Jimhans1 - 1/10/14 at 6:44pm
post #58209 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by LunaP View Post

Ha! Took me a few months to get this far what's overnight~ biggrin.gif

I take it its ok to fill up the tube res then from the top then just carefully reseal it using a quarter or something.

Anywhoo, got the cables hooked up, and updated my build log, here's the result thus far~ and yes the metroid is extending out from the wall and has an LED inside it, will be putting an LED inside Samus's weapon as well. 8< (Click to show)

Well lets fill this sucker up! I've been watching this build log for a while and the anticipation is killing me!
post #58210 of 106449
Anyone know what the Akasa viper voltage range is? I can't find any specs w/ the minimum and start voltages.
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