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post #58221 of 106104
Quote:
Originally Posted by friskiest View Post

Opened her up, and it appears to rub off with some force thumb.gif
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Any tips for polishing up nickel?

Thanks.

Awesome thumb.gif

Use some plain ol' distilled (hot if possible). I know there's nickel polish out there but I can't remember a name of the top of my head. I hear, but not 100% sure, silver polish also works on nickel. Btw, Brasso, is not for nickel, but they do have a version for it (but I can't figure out the name headscratch.gif).
post #58222 of 106104
I have found thermal paste works nice on copper, not sure about nickel though.
post #58223 of 106104
Quote:
Originally Posted by friskiest View Post

Opened her up, and it appears to rub off with some force thumb.gif




Any tips for polishing up nickel?

Thanks.

I would get some of this stuff.

It works wonders on brass, and is supposed to be safe on copper, nickel, silver, bronze, you name it.

But, to be safest go with distilled, that way there's no risk of leaving different residue behind.
Edited by Mr357 - 1/10/14 at 7:30pm
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post #58224 of 106104
Thanks guys.

Will go for distilled and elbow grease biggrin.gif
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post #58225 of 106104
Hey guys I was looking into some quick disconnects to make my rig easier to swap out components. Learned the hardway this month having to drain out my system 3 times just to swap out parts... This is my current configuration is this with 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tubing:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I was thinking of getting

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20107/koo-369/Koolance_QD3_Quick_Disconnect_No-Spill_Coupling_Male_Threaded_G_14_BSPP_-_Black_QD3-MG4-BK.html

to directly connect to the EK bridge separating my GPUs from the loop and one to my nozzle to make a easy drain valve. Would one of these work connected to my 360 rad on top as well? If so I could connect it on the right side so I can separate my CPU block as well from the loop. What are your opinions on this?

Oh and this was the female connection I was going to get to go along with that threaded ones

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21946/koo-389/Koolance_QD3_Quick_Disconnect_No-Spill_Coupling_Female_Compression_for_13mm_x_19mm_12in_x_34in_-_Black_QD3-FS13X19-BK.html
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post #58226 of 106104
My first ever loop. Sorry for the bad lighting. It was late at night so I needed flash.

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post #58227 of 106104
Wow.. acrylic is great so far but...
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post #58228 of 106104
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post

My first ever loop. Sorry for the bad lighting. It was late at night so I needed flash.

I was trying to figure out why you had three hoses going into the res until I realized it was a trick of the angle on this shot.
post #58229 of 106104
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 View Post

Well since your pump is up there with the bay res you will have to shut the pump off every time the water level in the bay res gets close to empty. But since you have all those massive rads and the extra tube res to fill, I would fill that tube res all the way to the top and let the water level in all the tubing get close to the bay-res level, then start filling and pumping the bay res. Otherwise you're going to be at it for a while, get comfortable and I hope you ordered some take-out because you ain't goin nowhere for a bit. thumb.gif

I second this. The bay res you have isn't that big, and you have to shut it off when the level is at half because the pump output is in the middle. It'll take you like 50 shut down/refills to get that thing filled up.
 
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post #58230 of 106104
Quote:
Originally Posted by LunaP View Post

Wow.. acrylic is great so far but...

Haha, my next build WILL be acrylic (or nickel plated copper) and it will look awesome like all of you guys's builds do! The only thing I fear is the PITA factor. Having to redo any tube bending and cutting anytime I want to add or change hardware seems like a, well, PITA! wink.gif
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