Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery - Page 5828

post #58271 of 106076
I'm thinking if the water was dripping out the back of the pump housing then the PCB on the pump got wet. Then if powered up wet it might have been damaged. Otherwise, it will need a while to dry out.
post #58272 of 106076
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 View Post

That's perfect! I'll order it when I order some coolant or corrosion inhibitor.

Speaking of which, any recommendations? I use distilled water with Mayhem's Biocide Extreme and a couple drops of Mayhems Ocean Blue dye. But with all these corroded blocks I keep seeing I'm getting a bit paranoid that I need some more protection.


EDIT: Those XSPC temp sensors, can I get this one that doesn't come with the plug and add my own? This is the same as the one you linked correct? The plug is interchangable? It doesn't show a picture of the back of the device so I'm not sure. This one is the color I want though, I can't find one in yellow like the one you linked just a minute ago.
If the temp probe isn't removable and you want to use your own temp plug you can always cut the stock probe off the LCD display and solder your Bitspower temp plug on in it's place. I kind of did that with the temp probes that came with the Lamptron FCT. I had some inline water temperature fittings and they were too short to reach back to the fan controller so I took of the the probes that came with the fan controller and cut the probe off, and a 2-pin male connector and pluged the inline sensor into it
BlackOut
(13 items)
 
Living Room HTPC
(11 items)
 
Bedroom HTPC
(8 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i5 4670K Gigabyte Z97N-WiFi MSI R9 290X Gaming 4G  16gb Hyper X 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 830 256gb Raijintek EreBoss Core Edition  Win7 Ultimate x64 Samsung 2693HM  
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G710+ Mech w/ MX Browns Silverstone Strider Platinum 550 Raijintek Styx Logitech G700 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i3 2100 Intel DH61BEB3 mATX XFX 6670 2GB 8gb GSkill Ares DDR3-1600 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
SanDisk SSD Plus 120gb SSD Seagate Barracuda 2TB Arctic Freezer 11 LP Win7 Ultimate x64 
MonitorPowerCase
47" LED TV Corsair CX430 SilverStone Grandia GD05B HTPC  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 MSI G41TM-E43 GT 610 2GB Corsair DDR2 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
64GB Crucial C300 WD Green 500GB Coolermaster Hyper TX3 Win7 Ultimate x64 
  hide details  
Reply
BlackOut
(13 items)
 
Living Room HTPC
(11 items)
 
Bedroom HTPC
(8 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i5 4670K Gigabyte Z97N-WiFi MSI R9 290X Gaming 4G  16gb Hyper X 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 830 256gb Raijintek EreBoss Core Edition  Win7 Ultimate x64 Samsung 2693HM  
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G710+ Mech w/ MX Browns Silverstone Strider Platinum 550 Raijintek Styx Logitech G700 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i3 2100 Intel DH61BEB3 mATX XFX 6670 2GB 8gb GSkill Ares DDR3-1600 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
SanDisk SSD Plus 120gb SSD Seagate Barracuda 2TB Arctic Freezer 11 LP Win7 Ultimate x64 
MonitorPowerCase
47" LED TV Corsair CX430 SilverStone Grandia GD05B HTPC  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 MSI G41TM-E43 GT 610 2GB Corsair DDR2 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
64GB Crucial C300 WD Green 500GB Coolermaster Hyper TX3 Win7 Ultimate x64 
  hide details  
Reply
post #58273 of 106076
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 View Post

I like the chameleon paint job


After running this new revision of my loop with all fans set for intake, it actually somehow made my temps a little higher on the CPU. Perhaps because now instead of GPU -> rear 120mm rad -> CPU, it now goes directly from GPU to CPU. My temps are generated from both CPU and GPU Folding so both are active.

Unfortunately I would have to redo two entire runs to go back to the way I had it before, and I'm out of tubing. So it will have to stay like this for the time being.

If you changed tubing and loop order also when you switched the fans to intake then you invalidated the temp results also, since the loop is now different AND you moved the fans.

You should have left the loop the way it was and just switched the airflow direction of the fans to get a proper before and after on the temps.
post #58274 of 106076
Right, I basically just moved the rear 120 exhaust radiator to the floor of the case as an intake. Then switched the fans on the top 240 rad. I still like this order better aesthetically, even if the temps are up. I could always just turn the fans up, or just get over it. The temps are still well within reason. Just slightly higher.
post #58275 of 106076
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 

I like the chameleon paint job


After running this new revision of my loop with all fans set for intake, it actually somehow made my temps a little higher on the CPU. Perhaps because now instead of GPU -> rear 120mm rad -> CPU, it now goes directly from GPU to CPU. My temps are generated from both CPU and GPU Folding so both are active.

Unfortunately I would have to redo two entire runs to go back to the way I had it before, and I'm out of tubing. So it will have to stay like this for the time being.
If you changed tubing and loop order also when you switched the fans to intake then you invalidated the temp results also, since the loop is now different AND you moved the fans.

You should have left the loop the way it was and just switched the airflow direction of the fans to get a proper before and after on the temps.


Also, you need to have measured the ambient temps from before and now to validate any tests, since cooling is dependent on the ambients


Side note: With those SP120s, man, I really would put them as push exhaust as you had them...100% better aesthetically wink.gif
Edited by cyphon - 1/11/14 at 10:08am
post #58276 of 106076
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 View Post

I'm thinking if the water was dripping out the back of the pump housing then the PCB on the pump got wet. Then if powered up wet it might have been damaged. Otherwise, it will need a while to dry out.

hope not seeing as it looks like it was meant to have water around it + the cables were covered somewhat.

Finally pulled it down and using paper towels to keep any water from the top lines going out.

For the life of me I can't figure out how to remove the pump. In the videos I saw them screw the red part no but regardless of force I cna't get it to budge.

Sylphiel
(20 items)
 
Yuna
(18 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 Extreme 980X Gigabyte X58A-UD3R eVGA GTX TITAN Corsair 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Corsair  Corsair SSD Samsung BluRay R/W Corsair H90 
OSMonitorMonitorMonitor
Windows 7 Ultimate HP w2338h HP w2338h HP w2338h 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
HP w2338h Samsung 46" TV ROCCAT Antex 1200W Silver 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Cosmos Corsair m95 ALLSOP Onboard 
  hide details  
Reply
Sylphiel
(20 items)
 
Yuna
(18 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 Extreme 980X Gigabyte X58A-UD3R eVGA GTX TITAN Corsair 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Corsair  Corsair SSD Samsung BluRay R/W Corsair H90 
OSMonitorMonitorMonitor
Windows 7 Ultimate HP w2338h HP w2338h HP w2338h 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
HP w2338h Samsung 46" TV ROCCAT Antex 1200W Silver 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Cosmos Corsair m95 ALLSOP Onboard 
  hide details  
Reply
post #58277 of 106076
Quote:
Originally Posted by LunaP View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by LunaP View Post

Wow.. acrylic is great so far but...

Sorry for some reason the pics didn't upload, had to upload to my email and load them from my comp vs phone. Acrylic is sealed shut but wth, its leaking from the PUMP???????






About a week or two ago, I posted a "how to" on how to make a budget air leak down setup for well under $100, even if you ordered everything new from McMaster.

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/56480#post_21458126

You may want to go back and peruse that post before you find any more leaks the hard / expensive way.

The air tester costs less than that pump you probably just fried, and that's not even considering the hassle of having to disassemble stuff to swap it out.


I can not for the life of me, understand how guys can spend thousands and thousands of dollars on a hi end build, and then put it all at risk by filling it with water without knowing if it's going to leak big time or not.


If it doesn't hold air, it won't hold water.

If you find that it leaks after you get it all assembled, just start isolating and testing smaller segments until you drill down to the problem.


Hope you didn't end up with too much damage,

Darlene
post #58278 of 106076
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
About a week or two ago, I posted a "how to" on how to make a budget air leak down setup for well under $100, even if you ordered everything new from McMaster.

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/56480#post_21458126

You may want to go back and peruse that post before you find any more leaks the hard / expensive way.

The air tester costs less than that pump you probably just fried, and that's not even considering the hassle of having to disassemble stuff to swap it out.


I can not for the life of me, understand how guys can spend thousands and thousands of dollars on a hi end build, and then put it all at risk by filling it with water without knowing if it's going to leak big time or not.


If it doesn't hold air, it won't hold water.

If you find that it leaks after you get it all assembled, just start isolating and testing smaller segments until you drill down to the problem.

Hope you didn't end up with too much damage,

Darlene

Appreciate it and I used a lesser method for air testing prior, it just never dawned on me w/ the pump since everything that's come from FCPU seems to be professionally installed.

Either way I may end up having to get a completely new bay res as I've no idea how they sealed this pump in there but no matter what video or instruction I watch it shows you can easily unscrew the red part, and I feel like my wrist is about to snap if I apply anymore pressure as its NOT coming off... I can see further in w/ the flashlight and it does look like in 1 section the o-ring came out about 1mm for about 3mm in diameter before going back in.

Nothing smells burnt, the bayres itself works and lights up, just the pump never made a click or turned on so I may just have never had it hooked up properly to begin with.

If anyone has had any experience using these and knows how to remove the back part that surrounds the pump I'd greatly appreciate your methods on how to unscrew this thing.
Sylphiel
(20 items)
 
Yuna
(18 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 Extreme 980X Gigabyte X58A-UD3R eVGA GTX TITAN Corsair 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Corsair  Corsair SSD Samsung BluRay R/W Corsair H90 
OSMonitorMonitorMonitor
Windows 7 Ultimate HP w2338h HP w2338h HP w2338h 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
HP w2338h Samsung 46" TV ROCCAT Antex 1200W Silver 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Cosmos Corsair m95 ALLSOP Onboard 
  hide details  
Reply
Sylphiel
(20 items)
 
Yuna
(18 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 Extreme 980X Gigabyte X58A-UD3R eVGA GTX TITAN Corsair 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Corsair  Corsair SSD Samsung BluRay R/W Corsair H90 
OSMonitorMonitorMonitor
Windows 7 Ultimate HP w2338h HP w2338h HP w2338h 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
HP w2338h Samsung 46" TV ROCCAT Antex 1200W Silver 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Cosmos Corsair m95 ALLSOP Onboard 
  hide details  
Reply
post #58279 of 106076
I wouldn't even try to take it apart. If you haven't already I'd call FrozenCPU right away and let them know about the issue and see what they can do about it. Definitely call them instead of email so you get a response right away. Their number is on the top of every page. It's been my experience that they will remedy something like this post haste.
post #58280 of 106076
Quote:
Originally Posted by LunaP View Post

Appreciate it and I used a lesser method for air testing prior, it just never dawned on me w/ the pump since everything that's come from FCPU seems to be professionally installed.

Either way I may end up having to get a completely new bay res as I've no idea how they sealed this pump in there but no matter what video or instruction I watch it shows you can easily unscrew the red part, and I feel like my wrist is about to snap if I apply anymore pressure as its NOT coming off... I can see further in w/ the flashlight and it does look like in 1 section the o-ring came out about 1mm for about 3mm in diameter before going back in.

Nothing smells burnt, the bayres itself works and lights up, just the pump never made a click or turned on so I may just have never had it hooked up properly to begin with.

If anyone has had any experience using these and knows how to remove the back part that surrounds the pump I'd greatly appreciate your methods on how to unscrew this thing.


Honestly bud I think you need to just mount a D5 under that Photon res and call it a day.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Water Cooling
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery