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post #58281 of 106453
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 View Post

Honestly bud I think you need to just mount a D5 under that Photon res and call it a day.
This. Do away with the bay res completely. It only complicates things.
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post #58282 of 106453
Quote:
Originally Posted by LunaP View Post

Appreciate it and I used a lesser method for air testing prior, it just never dawned on me w/ the pump since everything that's come from FCPU seems to be professionally installed.

Either way I may end up having to get a completely new bay res as I've no idea how they sealed this pump in there but no matter what video or instruction I watch it shows you can easily unscrew the red part, and I feel like my wrist is about to snap if I apply anymore pressure as its NOT coming off... I can see further in w/ the flashlight and it does look like in 1 section the o-ring came out about 1mm for about 3mm in diameter before going back in.

Nothing smells burnt, the bayres itself works and lights up, just the pump never made a click or turned on so I may just have never had it hooked up properly to begin with.

If anyone has had any experience using these and knows how to remove the back part that surrounds the pump I'd greatly appreciate your methods on how to unscrew this thing.

Don't know if you have this or not.
http://www.dangerden.com/images/stories/instructions/reservoirs/mon_premium_d5_instructions.pdf

If you can't unthread it,I hope FCPU didn't cross thread the pump on.Anyway,good luck.
post #58283 of 106453
Luna it looks like there's a little set screw on that pump housing. Remove/loosen the set screw and it should unscrew easily. But contact FCPU first.
post #58284 of 106453
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 View Post

Luna it looks like there's a little set screw on that pump housing. Remove/loosen the set screw and it should unscrew easily. But contact FCPU first.

Where are you referring to , the 2 tiny screws that hold on the backplate for putting wires in ? That one's already off.

Other than that I already contacted FCPU first thing this morning, and from what they said the PWM pumps are pretty resilient in case of water getting in, and luckily this shipped w/ 2 O-Rings.


I'll try to find this other screw you're mentioning though, but I refuse to ditch this pump, I appreciate the aesthetics / setup's people are trying to push me at but ultimately it's my build and I want to run it the way I designed it before moving on to something else. Regardless of switching out the pump I'd still get hit on for having a pump @ the bottom and have to re-run things all over again.

Waiting on a response from Joe since he's the guru for this stuff. If anything I'll just order the same res/pump combo today and send this one back monday.

Gonna get a dish towel and wrap it around it for more torque.
Edited by LunaP - 1/11/14 at 11:14am
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post #58285 of 106453
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by LunaP View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by LunaP View Post

Wow.. acrylic is great so far but...

Sorry for some reason the pics didn't upload, had to upload to my email and load them from my comp vs phone. Acrylic is sealed shut but wth, its leaking from the PUMP???????






About a week or two ago, I posted a "how to" on how to make a budget air leak down setup for well under $100, even if you ordered everything new from McMaster.

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/56480#post_21458126

You may want to go back and peruse that post before you find any more leaks the hard / expensive way.

The air tester costs less than that pump you probably just fried, and that's not even considering the hassle of having to disassemble stuff to swap it out.


I can not for the life of me, understand how guys can spend thousands and thousands of dollars on a hi end build, and then put it all at risk by filling it with water without knowing if it's going to leak big time or not.


If it doesn't hold air, it won't hold water.

If you find that it leaks after you get it all assembled, just start isolating and testing smaller segments until you drill down to the problem.


Hope you didn't end up with too much damage,

Darlene


Exactly this.

Air>Water for testing.

If you have a slow leak then use some diluted dish soap and a q-tip,run it round any joins and leaks form bubbles. Easy.
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post #58286 of 106453
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Exactly this.

Air>Water for testing.

If you have a slow leak then use some diluted dish soap and a q-tip,run it round any joins and leaks form bubbles. Easy.

This is a no brainer.Exactly what plumbers do before they fill.

Luna,look at the pdf link I posted it explains everything about your pump/res what to do & not do.
post #58287 of 106453
Quote:
Originally Posted by waveaddict View Post

This is a no brainer.Exactly what plumbers do before they fill.

Luna,look at the pdf link I posted it explains everything about your pump/res what to do & not do.

This diagram is where I noticed the set screw, check the diagram.
post #58288 of 106453
Quote:
Originally Posted by waveaddict View Post

This is a no brainer.Exactly what plumbers do before they fill.

Luna,look at the pdf link I posted it explains everything about your pump/res what to do & not do.

No brainer for some not all, As I stated I ran an air test prior... this is why we're here to learn we see and follow what other people do so that's how things end up how they are at times, not everything gets covered I get it.

I have the same manual it has nothing that covers this. I have nothing I can wrap around it to budge it, so I'm going to guess its cross threaded or they used some sort of machine/tool to really pump it inside.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 View Post

This diagram is where I noticed the set screw, check the diagram.

since there are multiple diagrams I'll assume you're referring to the end cap which is off in the last photo I posted. Other than that I'm not seeing any other screws that would relate to it. Appreciate it though.
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post #58289 of 106453
Quote:
Originally Posted by LunaP View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 View Post

Luna it looks like there's a little set screw on that pump housing. Remove/loosen the set screw and it should unscrew easily. But contact FCPU first.

Where are you referring to , the 2 tiny screws that hold on the backplate for putting wires in ? That one's already off.

Other than that I already contacted FCPU first thing this morning, and from what they said the PWM pumps are pretty resilient in case of water getting in, and luckily this shipped w/ 2 O-Rings.


I'll try to find this other screw you're mentioning though, but I refuse to ditch this pump, I appreciate the aesthetics / setup's people are trying to push me at but ultimately it's my build and I want to run it the way I designed it before moving on to something else. Regardless of switching out the pump I'd still get hit on for having a pump @ the bottom and have to re-run things all over again.

Waiting on a response from Joe since he's the guru for this stuff. If anything I'll just order the same res/pump combo today and send this one back monday.

Gonna get a dish towel and wrap it around it for more torque.


My guess is that they cross threaded the damn thing, which put more pressure on one side of the pump flange, that then squirreled the o ring out of place on the opposite side because there isn't any clamping force against the flange to hold it against the delrin.


Luna, take a good pic from the side so you can see if the motor sleeve is slightly cockeyed where it screws into the res.

If it's crossed or over tightened to where it ripped the delrin, you may need a rubber strap wrench to undo it.

Also, the evenness of the gap around the motor and sleeve, when viewed from the rear, could be an indication of cross threading if it's not exactly the same all around.


Darlene
Edited by IT Diva - 1/11/14 at 11:39am
post #58290 of 106453
Quote:
Originally Posted by LunaP View Post

No brainer for some not all, As I stated I ran an air test prior... this is why we're here to learn we see and follow what other people do so that's how things end up how they are at times, not everything gets covered I get it.

I have the same manual it has nothing that covers this. I have nothing I can wrap around it to budge it, so I'm going to guess its cross threaded or they used some sort of machine/tool to really pump it inside.
since there are multiple diagrams I'll assume you're referring to the end cap which is off in the last photo I posted. Other than that I'm not seeing any other screws that would relate to it. Appreciate it though.

No tool/machine should be used to install or remove a pump to a pump body,only hand thread.If FCPU installed the pump incorrectly,send it back.
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