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post #58781 of 106724
Quote:
Originally Posted by NASzi View Post

G 1/4 & 1/4" NPT are so similar, i'd say buy this http://www.amazon.com/Parker-Brass-Pipe-Fitting-Hollow/dp/B000FN1ABA, put some teflon tape on it and screw it in, i guarantee it won't leak, it's not like there's any pressure in the reservoir

What you're looking for is called a hollow hex plug.

The difference between NPT & G 1/4 (1/4" BSPP, British Standard Pipe Parallel) is that NPT is a tapered thread that seals on the threads and has 18 threads per inch, the G 1/4 is a straight thread with 19 thread per inch, the seal is made by an O-Ring.

Your best bet would be to find a Plastic Hollow Hex plug as the threads would give a little, less chance of damaging the threads on your reservoir. But trust me, if you just buy the NPT, put about 2-3 layers of Teflon on it and screw it in slowly, you will be able to tell if there is a problem, if it gets really really hard to tighten, don't tighten anymore, it will mess up the threds.

You can also purchase this...http://www.amazon.com/Tefen-Nylon-Pipe-Fitting-Black/dp/B006OO90I4/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1389818333&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=hollow+hex+plug+british and cut the head off, cut a slit in it for a flat head screw driver and use this, it stands no chance of messing up the threads on your reservoir.

If you're asking how I know so much about these fittings, I work for a Fluid Power company called Pneumatic and Hydraulic, everything I sell has threads on it, I also sell thousands of different fittings with different thread types.

www.pneumaticandhydraulic.com

I just tried screwing some 1/4 NPT threaded schrader valves into g1/4 brass fittings and they wouldn't even go in but a single turn before starting to seize up / crossthread. They were so not leak-tight yet that I could blow air through it like a whistle, but had to use pliers to get them apart.

1/4 BSP is 19 TPI (threads per inch) and 1/4 NPT is 18 TPI. I think you would risk destroying the threads in that acetal if you try to screw in anything 1/4 NPT threaded into it.
post #58782 of 106724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belial View Post

Is there any sort of G1/4 cap fitting (you know, for unused reservoir ports and stuff) that would fit flush with the port? I dont like the stock cap fittings that stick out a bit on reservoirs.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

see sticking out i want to eliminate that. just need one ;/


If you use a flat top res, or it has a flat on the inside where the threads are, just put the stop plug on the inside and a screw driver slot in the threaded end so you can loosen it a little bit from the outside to bleed.

D.
post #58783 of 106724
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post

Updated images of my loop:



Good looking rig.
post #58784 of 106724
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 View Post

What has better cooling potential with a high RPM fan(s) like the Corsair SP120 High Performance? A 240mm ST30 rad or a 120mm UT60 rad?

Bigger rad of course. A bigger fan will always cool better, but a bigger rad will always cool better too, and it doesnt change depending on what fan you use. Unless maybe you mean like, High Fan Small Rad vs Small fan Big Rad, in which case a fan doesnt contribute that much, only 2-3C at most, so it's not a big deal.

A 240mm rad will have more cooling potential. If you are going on about deeper rads, deepness doesn't make a big contribution to temps. Surface area, not deepness. The difference between a 'fat' rad is like the same of just adding a single fan. As always, high static pressure is best for a fan. If I'm understanding your question right. Martins tested thick vs thin rads.
Quote:
The holes in the res are just 1/4 BSPP threads straight through. They are parallel threaded, not tapered like NPT threads. There would be no way for a flush-mounted fitting not to leak. The o-rings on all three of those fittings seal against the flat outside of the cap. I don't think what you are wanting is going to be possible.

Well, it doesnt need to be water proof necessarily since it'll be on the top of the res, but okay, i'm sure no one makes what' i'm asking for for said reason. dang.

I mean I'd be okay with putting the fitting on the inside. I mean right, why dont they have that? Then the top is just a smooth, level surface.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NASzi View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Belial View Post

Is there any sort of G1/4 cap fitting (you know, for unused reservoir ports and stuff) that would fit flush with the port? I dont like the stock cap fittings that stick out a bit on reservoirs.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

see sticking out i want to eliminate that. just need one ;/

G 1/4 & 1/4" NPT are so similar, i'd say buy this http://www.amazon.com/Parker-Brass-Pipe-Fitting-Hollow/dp/B000FN1ABA, put some teflon tape on it and screw it in, i guarantee it won't leak, it's not like there's any pressure in the reservoir

What you're looking for is called a hollow hex plug.

The difference between NPT & G 1/4 (1/4" BSPP, British Standard Pipe Parallel) is that NPT is a tapered thread that seals on the threads and has 18 threads per inch, the G 1/4 is a straight thread with 19 thread per inch, the seal is made by an O-Ring.

Your best bet would be to find a Plastic Hollow Hex plug as the threads would give a little, less chance of damaging the threads on your reservoir. But trust me, if you just buy the NPT, put about 2-3 layers of Teflon on it and screw it in slowly, you will be able to tell if there is a problem, if it gets really really hard to tighten, don't tighten anymore, it will mess up the threds.

You can also purchase this...http://www.amazon.com/Tefen-Nylon-Pipe-Fitting-Black/dp/B006OO90I4/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1389818333&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=hollow+hex+plug+british and cut the head off, cut a slit in it for a flat head screw driver and use this, it stands no chance of messing up the threads on your reservoir.

If you're asking how I know so much about these fittings, I work for a Fluid Power company called Pneumatic and Hydraulic, everything I sell has threads on it, I also sell thousands of different fittings with different thread types.

www.pneumaticandhydraulic.com

Thanks everyone for the input on fittings. I'll go with darlene's suggestion first (just put in a fitting the other way from the inside, simply). If that doesnt work, I'll try to find a plastic hollow hex plug NPT that won't hurt the threads.
Edited by Belial - 1/15/14 at 1:02pm
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post #58785 of 106724
Interesting, I just pulled out two of my 120mm rads because I want to sell them and replace them with radiators that match my others. However, despite removing 240mm of cooling surface, my load (folding) temps are pretty much exactly the same. I might be wasting my time and money here. I think I'll just skip getting more rads and get myself that nice fan controller and call it a day...

I had to use an odd assortment of fittings to get an operational loop because I'm out of tubing so I had to connect together what I already had, lol.

post #58786 of 106724
So still kinda new to AC rads; only had an ST30 so far. Just got a single UT45 and apparently there is not a bleed port on this model? Six ports on one side and all can be used like any other I figure then?
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post #58787 of 106724
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCModderMike View Post

Good looking rig.

Thank you. I tried my best. Although the Chassis is large, working on the loop is incredibly difficult at times. Added to this, it's my first loop. smile.gif
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post #58788 of 106724
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrigleyvillain View Post

So still kinda new to AC rads; only had an ST30 so far. Just got a single UT45 and apparently there is not a bleed port on this model? Six ports on one side and all can be used like any other I figure then?

Only Alphacool's UT60 and Monstas have a fill/bleed port on the opposite end. The exception being their 180mm-series XT45 rads do have the extra port).
post #58789 of 106724
Thanks +rep. So I have six options, cool...need to use on on the left and one on the right though?
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post #58790 of 106724
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrigleyvillain View Post

Thanks +rep. So I have six options, cool...need to use on on the left and one on the right though?

Correct. In a typical rad, like those Alphacools, flow goes in one long U-shape down one side of the rad to the other end, and then back up the other.

Computer water cooling radiator flow path

^ That should help show why the drain / fill port shouldn't ever be incorporated as part of a loop, as would only get half of the flow through the rad. ie: half the cooling performance. If you need ports on either end then you want a crossflow rad where the flow goes in a long S-shape and inlet/outlet ports end up on opposite ends.

You can pretty much see what I'm talking about in the cutaway pictures below of an Alphacool rad, with the inlet/outlet ports cut away in the images on the right, and the end-chamber cut away pics on the left. You can see how the flow goes down one side of the rad to the end, and then comes back up the other side in a long U-shape flow pattern. It's the same basic design with all computer watercooling rads with the exception of crossflows.

Alphacool cutaway view
Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 1/15/14 at 1:27pm
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