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post #58791 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belial View Post

Bigger rad of course. A bigger fan will always cool better, but a bigger rad will always cool better too, and it doesnt change depending on what fan you use. Unless maybe you mean like, High Fan Small Rad vs Small fan Big Rad, in which case a fan doesnt contribute that much, only 2-3C at most, so it's not a big deal.

A 240mm rad will have more cooling potential. If you are going on about deeper rads, deepness doesn't make a big contribution to temps. Surface area, not deepness. The difference between a 'fat' rad is like the same of just adding a single fan. As always, high static pressure is best for a fan. If I'm understanding your question right. Martins tested thick vs thin rads.
Well, it doesnt need to be water proof necessarily since it'll be on the top of the res, but okay, i'm sure no one makes what' i'm asking for for said reason. dang.

I mean I'd be okay with putting the fitting on the inside. I mean right, why dont they have that? Then the top is just a smooth, level surface.
Thanks everyone for the input on fittings. I'll go with darlene's suggestion first (just put in a fitting the other way from the inside, simply). If that doesnt work, I'll try to find a plastic hollow hex plug NPT that won't hurt the threads.

the ek stop fittings that come with there reservoirs and blocks are very low profile. The fittings has a groove for the o-ring that makes it much more low profile. When using there products they go flush but it might work differently with different g1/4 threads.
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post #58792 of 106449
Excellent, thank you. FYI came from FCPU in really good shape. Fins are all fine. One weird roughish spot on side in the matte but not a scratch or scuff. Probably from the factory.
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post #58793 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaitWhat View Post

Does single GPU (and CPU) water cooling look any good?

I'm planning on putting a 780 ti underwater but all the good looking builds seem to have 2 or more GPUs

I too believe that it can look great with a smaller case. I have watercooled mine and I think it looks great, although I haven't officially joined the club here since I still want to make custom cables before I post pictures, but you can see them in by build log if you want.

Case Labs S3 or S5 are nice. The Corsair 350D is a nice case as well, but the thing about that case is that it has a tendency to turn everything you put inside of it red tongue.gif
 
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post #58794 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

I just tried screwing some 1/4 NPT threaded schrader valves into g1/4 brass fittings and they wouldn't even go in but a single turn before starting to seize up / crossthread. They were so not leak-tight yet that I could blow air through it like a whistle, but had to use pliers to get them apart.

1/4 BSP is 19 TPI (threads per inch) and 1/4 NPT is 18 TPI. I think you would risk destroying the threads in that acetal if you try to screw in anything 1/4 NPT threaded into it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NASzi View Post

G 1/4 & 1/4" NPT are so similar, i'd say buy this http://www.amazon.com/Parker-Brass-Pipe-Fitting-Hollow/dp/B000FN1ABA, put some teflon tape on it and screw it in, i guarantee it won't leak, it's not like there's any pressure in the reservoir

I cut the barbs off of a D5 pump top and threaded 1/4" NPT threads into it, then screwed G 1/4" fittings into the NPT Threads, worked like a charm, just saying smile.gif
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post #58795 of 106449

I threaded a PSI Guage, that i was told was G1/4 BSPP, into a rad. It definitely tore up the threads. I had to get a BP E-Extender and thread tape to workaround it. Stop plugs literally just push in all the way to the o-ring and drop right back out without touching threads.

 

So i'm assuming it was actually NPT. Maybe BSPP => NPT is safer than NPT => BSPP

    
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post #58796 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by NASzi View Post


I cut the barbs off of a D5 pump top and threaded 1/4" NPT threads into it, then screwed G 1/4" fittings into the NPT Threads, worked like a charm, just saying smile.gif

I guess it's a YMMV thing.

In my case you can see pretty clearly how far I was able to screw the NPT schrader valve in by the amount of teflon that got scraped off (the valves came coated with sealant) and if you look you can see I damaged the threads to both pieces by trying to tighten them up enough they would be leak-tight. I bought a bunch of the schrader valves and the fitting is one of many extras so I wasn't too worried about the threads on either, which is why I kept tightening them more than normal. I just wanted to get them together and not leak, but it never was going to happen.

NPT to BSP didn't work


Instead I bought a few Koolance G 1/4" Male to NPT 1/4" Female fittings and they seemed to do the trick. Darlene (IT Diva) warned me in a post earlier on this thread that the Koolance adapters I had just ordered at the time were junk, and she wasn't far off in my case. They screwed on in just fine, but it took me several tries using more and more teflon tape each time before I was able to get a leak-free seal.

All I've managed to do so far is put them in a test of what's only a partial loop (work-in-progress) and they held a steady ~8 lbs pressure overnight.

water cooling loop pressure-leak test 1.0
post #58797 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inelastic View Post

I too believe that it can look great with a smaller case. I have watercooled mine and I think it looks great, although I haven't officially joined the club here since I still want to make custom cables before I post pictures, but you can see them in by build log if you want.

Case Labs S3 or S5 are nice. The Corsair 350D is a nice case as well, but the thing about that case is that it has a tendency to turn everything you put inside of it red tongue.gif

I have a 750D so it's a bit bigger than the 350D tongue.gif

I agree it looks ace in a small case, however in quite a large case I'm not sure if it's gonna look silly sitting there by itself

May have to get adventurous with the tubing...

Is there any recommendations on clear tubing? I've previously used the XSPC stuff as started off with the D5 360 kit a year back and thought it seemed decent enough
post #58798 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by NASzi View Post


I cut the barbs off of a D5 pump top and threaded 1/4" NPT threads into it, then screwed G 1/4" fittings into the NPT Threads, worked like a charm, just saying smile.gif

I guess it's a YMMV thing.

In my case you can see pretty clearly how far I was able to screw the NPT schrader valve in by the amount of teflon that got scraped off (the valves came coated with sealant) and if you look you can see I damaged the threads to both pieces by trying to tighten them up enough they would be leak-tight. I bought a bunch of the schrader valves and the fitting is one of many extras so I wasn't too worried about the threads on either, which is why I kept tightening them more than normal. I just wanted to get them together and not leak, but it never was going to happen.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
NPT to BSP didn't work

Instead I bought a few Koolance G 1/4" Male to NPT 1/4" Female fittings and they seemed to do the trick. Darlene (IT Diva) warned me in a post earlier on this thread that the Koolance adapters I had just ordered at the time were junk, and she wasn't far off in my case. They screwed on in just fine, but it took me several tries using more and more teflon tape each time before I was able to get a leak-free seal.

All I've managed to do so far is put them in a test of what's only a partial loop (work-in-progress) and they held a steady ~8 lbs pressure overnight.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
water cooling loop pressure-leak test 1.0


The other option is to cut the first couple threads off the gage, but if you got yours to hold, you're lucky . . . Just keep an eye on it.

You'll go to test, and it'll leak down a couple pounds overnight, and you really have no way to know if it was a micro leak at the gage, or one you need to worry about.

It was my intense frustration with that fitting that Pi**ed me off enough to make the little manifold setup I've pictured in previous posts which works marvelously every time.


Darlene
Edited by IT Diva - 1/15/14 at 3:11pm
post #58799 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

The other option is to cut the first couple threads off the gage, but if you got yours to hold, you're lucky . . . Just keep an eye on it.

You'll go to test, and it'll leak down a couple pounds overnight, and you really have no way to know if it was a micro leak at the gage, or one you need to worry about.

It was my intense frustration with that fitting that Pi**ed me off enough to make the little manifold setup I've pictured in previous posts which works marvelously ever time.


Darlene

Yeah I'd already ordered these koolance adapter fittings so figured I'd give them a go. They're 'Plan A'.

If I do get any leaks, like I already did the first couple times I tried I found out there were leaks between the NPT threads and the Koolance adapters, I've found them so far by using a Q-tip with soapy water.

If this doesn't work out - I'm still at least a week away from completing this loop before I actually put it to use - then I've got your post with the mcmaster-carr parts list saved. but for now at least that's still 'Plan B'.
post #58800 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaitWhat View Post

I have a 750D so it's a bit bigger than the 350D tongue.gif

I agree it looks ace in a small case, however in quite a large case I'm not sure if it's gonna look silly sitting there by itself

May have to get adventurous with the tubing...

Is there any recommendations on clear tubing? I've previously used the XSPC stuff as started off with the D5 360 kit a year back and thought it seemed decent enough

Personally, I would go with Primochill Advanced LRT or even acrylic.

If you're worried about if it will look silly or not with a single gpu, perhaps you could do something to draw the attention away from it? Like remove the hdd cages and build a scale model of your computer setup in there.
 
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