Originally Posted by Faster_is_better
So about a 5-7C difference between all of the blocks. Not a huge difference, but I suppose if you are really tuning for every last ounce of OC it would matter. Thanks
Originally Posted by BWAS1000
Exactly why I don't want to buy a top of the line block. The Raystorm at 50USD looks enticing.
Depends..... if you have a self imposed max temp limit of say 75C and you hit 75C with a 4.6 Ghz OC .... on that worse block it would be 82C.....meaning ya 4.6 would be a no go.
I look at it this way ..... if ya spending $500 - 2500 on all ya water cooling stuff, so ya can drop 10-25C off air cooling .... Even at the 25C (GPU), it costs ya $20 per degree..... So spending another $20 to get 1 more degree is right in line with what ya doing. Now looking at CPU, you're down at the 10C level...... so a $500 loop costs ya $50 per degree ..... getting even one more degree for $20 to my mind is the proverbial "no brainer" looking at it from a cost per degree of cooling level.
Originally Posted by Seid Dark
What 30mm 360 rad should I buy? Is there other good options besides Alphacool ST30? I would pair it with XSPC RayStorm D5 Photon AX240 WaterCooling Kit.
The Alphacools have the best numbers from 1000 rpm on up. And the screw protectors can be a rad-saver.
Originally Posted by kpoeticg
That's how i've always understood it. The warm/hot water passes through the radiator, radiator's being cooled by fans, little water evaporates.
Water does evaporate in a closed loop, you oft see it recondensed as little droplets on the side of ya reservoir. But unless there is a leak, that water vapor can not escape the closed loop unless you have some type of air release. I have never added coolant to my system after the 1st week when all the fine lil tiny bubbles work their way out. There will be a certain amount of water absorption by the tubing but 1) that is easily addressed by using a low water absorption tubing like Tygon 2475 (0.01%) .... it will therefore absorb up to 0.1mm and 2) in my experience, I have not known it to continue once "saturation" is reached.
Originally Posted by HardwareDecoder
since im on the subject of fans, I'm just using the 1850 rpm or whatever the 1850 means fans that came with my original xspc kit, and some crappy cooler master regular old case fans for the front rad, what are the best fans for radiators? I'd like to buy 4.
Also what are good temps for 2x 290x in a loop?
Hard to say, definitively..... Martisnliquidlab was the definitive source for this info but it's been a while since he's done any testing so his database doesn't include the latest designs. In recent months the Phanteks Sp140s have become the darling of 140mm rad users. Where in the past 120mm dominated air coolers due to the tight fin spacing, now 140mm hold 4 of the top 5 positions on air cooler testing. SCythe and Noiseblocker are about to release new 140mm lines also.
At 120mm, the Gentle Typhoons are a perennial fav but I'd suggest reviewing Martins Data as there haven't been very many 120mm new designs at all.
Be aware of what kind of noise the fan makes..... To my mind, if I can hear it, it's unacceptable. At 1850 you are definitely gonna hear it..... After 850 rpm on 140mm, you start to "notice" them ..... and when I say notice, I mean like "annoying". I'll put up with 1200 rom during stress testing bit when working or gaming, I don't wanna heat anything.
I have twin 780's running at a 25% OC with a 4770k .... At 1200 rpm, the 780s are at 39C under Furmark with an 8.4C Delta T. Under normal speed control curve, the temps rise to 44C with fans topping out at about 650 rpm. That's on a 280 + 420 with just 5 Phanteks fans in push. The 290x's won't OC that high as they are aggressively OC'd outta the box..... but even with 7-10% over the ultra setting my guess is ya might pull 325 watts .... I calculated / guessed 296 for the 780s.
Originally Posted by Anoxy
So I guess I never really gave it any thought...to drain my loop should I just let it passively come out through my drain port, or would I need to do the 24-pin trick again and use my pump to push it out?
I assume passive so I don't risk my pump running dry, but I just wanted to make sure.
Gravity works...... but you need to let air in in order not to get vapor lock from the negative pressure created by liquid leaving ..... something needs to rplace it and you don't want that to be from the drain ....thinl chug lug chug lug plop plop from pouting from milk / soda bottle. So remove, or at least loosen, on of the rad plugs (or res top plug) up top and let air get in and it will empty in less than a minuteEdited by JackNaylorPE - 3/6/14 at 6:31am