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post #64691 of 107101
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Oh, nice! so these are actually imperial 1/2"??? Will keep an eye on this since a 10' length of 1/2" copper pipe (M type) is only $10 (though the tool is three to four times of that vs 3/8" pipe bender).
Yes Sir biggrin.gif
Rocket Science website and store

and more detailed info
Quote:
Product Description

G¼ thread fittings for 12.7mm (half inch) OD tubing.
Material: Brass
Finish: Silver Nickel Plating

In case you’re still not sure let me help – yes, you lucky sod, these fittings are for the type of copper pipe you can source in plumbing stores throughout Australian and the United States. Woohoo!

Edited by fast_fate - 3/24/14 at 7:06pm
post #64692 of 107101
Quote:
Originally Posted by fast_fate View Post

Yes Sir biggrin.gif
Rocket Science website and store

and more detailed info

Hmmm, $100 for a dozen...thinking.gif...ghost/revolver are ~$7 so its not too far off. Either way, which ever path you take, its gonna end up costing you about the same:

-1/2" copper, tool is like ~$40
-1/2" acrylic, forming tools $40-$70
-12mm copper/acrylic, tube is really expensive. 10' of 12mm copper, is like ~$100.



Sigh, well, I'll leave that in the back burner. Thanks for the info.
post #64693 of 107101
Last time I tried draining my loop I had a real hard time. Is there anything I can use to push the water through? Something like a small hand pump with a G1/4 in thread on the end of it. What if I just pop the tubing off and blow into it as to push the remaining water into the reservoir then using my valve I just drain it like normal. You guys can use my sig rig picture as reference. Thanks in advanced guys!
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post #64694 of 107101
I may go for copper in my next build actually. I have a bunch of experience working with 1/4 and 1/2" copper and SS tubing and I am pretty sure that I have a good 10-20' of both left as well as bending tools and such.
post #64695 of 107101
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragsters View Post

Last time I tried draining my loop I had a real hard time. Is there anything I can use to push the water through? Something like a small hand pump with a G1/4 in thread on the end of it. What if I just pop the tubing off and blow into it as to push the remaining water into the reservoir then using my valve I just drain it like normal. You guys can use my sig rig picture as reference. Thanks in advanced guys!

I end up disconnecting one of the lines and blowing air through it. Not high tech but works.
post #64696 of 107101
i farted into my fill port and the force shattered all the acrylic tubing


but it got the water out.
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post #64697 of 107101
I too blow into the loop to free up any coolant that ends up stuck in rads or blocks. This isn't technically proper as you introduce biological items into your sterile loop but if you are using a proper coolant (i.e. with biocides) it shouldn't matter Otherwise, however, the effectiveness of your loop design itself should get it 90-95% drained if properly executed.
post #64698 of 107101
I blow compressed air through the top rad ports. That's if I absolutely need the whole thing drained.
post #64699 of 107101
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragsters View Post

Last time I tried draining my loop I had a real hard time. Is there anything I can use to push the water through? Something like a small hand pump with a G1/4 in thread on the end of it. What if I just pop the tubing off and blow into it as to push the remaining water into the reservoir then using my valve I just drain it like normal. You guys can use my sig rig picture as reference. Thanks in advanced guys!

You can get what is called a drill pump, home depot should have them. It is literally a pump that hooks into your drill like a bit.
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post #64700 of 107101
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

I end up disconnecting one of the lines and blowing air through it. Not high tech but works.

I was thinking that but I also saw somewhere someone using a siringe looking thing to push the coolant out. I need that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by szeged View Post

i farted into my fill port and the force shattered all the acrylic tubing but it got the water out.

What else came out? tongue.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Majin SSJ Eric View Post

I too blow into the loop to free up any coolant that ends up stuck in rads or blocks. This isn't technically proper as you introduce biological items into your sterile loop but if you are using a proper coolant (i.e. with biocides) it shouldn't matter Otherwise, however, the effectiveness of your loop design itself should get it 90-95% drained if properly executed.

I'm afraid of the biological properties too. I thought my drain system was pretty good until I added my second radiator on top. Now its just really difficult to get most of the water out. Take a look at my sig rig picture to see if there is anything else I can try.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LaBestiaHumana View Post

I blow compressed air through the top rad ports. That's if I absolutely need the whole thing drained.

I would think doing this would cause water to go everywhere.
Edited by Ragsters - 3/24/14 at 8:29pm
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