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post #64791 of 106463

    
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post #64792 of 106463
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimlaheysadrunk View Post

whats a kitty litter flusher if you dont mind me asking?

^ -- this ---v
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBaggins View Post

And my Tidy cat flushing system is set up lol

Quite a few others around here, including myself, and kpoeticg, and skupples, etc (just to name a few) have built similar flushing kits. I'm not convinced it was 'worth it', as the most debris seems to come out during the initial 'partial fill, shake-shake & drain', but on close up inspection some finer particulate does get caught up in the filter and it does provide some extra peace-of-mind.
post #64793 of 106463
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by skupples View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by kpoeticg View Post

Interesting. Well, if running 3 DDC's means that's gonna happen to one of em, then i already made the mistake by buying the 3rd. Guess we'll just have to see what happens. I doubt something that drastic would happen during a leaktest.

Definitely something to keep an eye (or ear) out for =)

Not that I don't believe it can't happen. I feel like it could definitely be an issue if running all of them @ 100%. I also feel like some one some where would have had this happen to them @ some point in time, and we would then have people linking empirical evidence when the topic comes up.
You would need a high speed camera,a crystal clear top and plenty of time on your hands to prove cavitation issues.
Essentially,you would need to record high speed footage thru the top and watch for bubbles forming on the leading edges of the impeller at high speed. How worthwhile that would be is open to interpretation,im not entirely sure that impellers cavitate like traditional props as the coolant is drawn thru the impeller and flung out rather than using screw kinetics of the normal prop


Impellers cavitate just like a prop or hydrofoil can cavitate.

Any time you have a shape moving thru the water, or water moving past a shape, that creates a lower pressure area on one side of it by accelerating the flow rate across it compared to the other side, you can have cavitation.

Cavitation is water being vaporized by frictional heating, and reduced pressure within a localized region, into vapor bubbles that when they collapse, allow water to fill the empty space at supersonic velocities.

The surface of an prop or impeller or hydrofoil that's experienced significant cavitation, looks like the lunar surface, full of pock marks and gouges.

Ongoing cavitation leaves permanent damage in it's wake.


For pumps, when cavitation occurs, it sounds like it has little rocks in it.


Darlene
I'm aware of how cavitation occurs,I was big into nuc boats as a kiddie,the difference for me is the confined space will enhance the pressure in the top. Pressure squashes cavitation nicely. I have yet to see cavitation damage in a CH pump which is much closer to the pumps we use than hydrofoils and sub screws. Airlocks also have the gravel truck sound.
I have seen speed screws from various nuc subs,they get really chewed up.
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post #64794 of 106463
Quote:
Originally Posted by kpoeticg View Post


Lmao

Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

^ -- this ---v
Quite a few others around here, including myself, and kpoeticg, and skupples, etc (just to name a few) have built similar flushing kits. I'm not convinced it was 'worth it', as the most debris seems to come out during the initial 'partial fill, shake-shake & drain', but on close up inspection some finer particulate does get caught up in the filter and it does provide some extra peace-of-mind.

Yeah I'm not sure how well the pump through filter method really worked but I can say I've had no issues with flow or debris in my loop.
 
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post #64795 of 106463
Quote:
Originally Posted by skupples View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Still trying to figure this bit out, as the EK syncs come with screws, and my XSPC top came with screws.

I'm trying to figure it out as well. So the Swiftech pump isn't tapped for M4 as standard? Instead it comes with self-tapping screw of an unknown specification.

Will I need to tap M4 myself to get the bolts included with the EK-DDC heatsink to fit in my MCP35X?
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post #64796 of 106463
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

I'm trying to figure it out as well. So the Swiftech pump isn't tapped for M4 as standard? Instead it comes with self-tapping screw of an unknown specification.

Will I need to tap M4 myself to get the bolts included with the EK-DDC heatsink to fit in my MCP35X?

Yes you will need to tap the threads yourself.
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post #64797 of 106463
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpetrach View Post

can you show pics of the after and any debris. I was thinking about doing this. just want to know if its worth it

Take a look at my S3 build log, I've got a similar setup, with pictures of all the debris that came out.
    
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post #64798 of 106463
post #64799 of 106463
Is it a big deal to tap acrylic? I had an idea bout tapping an extra g1/4 hole in my xspc bay res.
post #64800 of 106463
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

I'm trying to figure it out as well. So the Swiftech pump isn't tapped for M4 as standard? Instead it comes with self-tapping screw of an unknown specification.

Will I need to tap M4 myself to get the bolts included with the EK-DDC heatsink to fit in my MCP35X?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat View Post

Yes you will need to tap the threads yourself.

possibly not as my 35x2 top was tapped already. swiftech by the way, is an american company and im assuming those threads are imperial and 8-32 threaded. furthermore, the screws that come with the ek heatsink are too long. the difference between other aftermarket tops and the 35x top is huge. compare the thickness for yourself.

the anti-vibration screws i got from ek were about 1/4" (total) too long to the shoulder at least for the stock housing plus the 35x2 top. the 35x tops are not deep enough to allow the screw to fully thread into the top. about 1/8" of spacers/washers may have worked though. and im pretty sure swiftech taps for 8-32 while ek is m4.
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