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post #66841 of 106733
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

I know this.

Acids are not recommended for rad cleaning,rad flux is water soluble.

That's weird, because even @Mayhem
Recommended a vinegar washing followed by a sodium bicarbonate rinsing, they even have brought out a specific cleaning kit along those lines.....

And?

The product is for his coolant,no one else has to use a cleaning kit for their coolants.


Niko from EK and Shoggy from AquaC have both commented in this thread warning against using acids on rads,who are you going to trust? A coolant seller that has had numerous issues with various watercooling products or the guys that make the products he has an issue with?
Stripping the oxidization from Copper only leaves it open to more attack,the oxide layer has the same properties as anodizing,it protects the substrate from attack and is very resilient. Or the solder interface bond line that is also easily attacked by acid?
Personally,I only recommend water,its what the manufacturers recommend and its what is safest for the kit that you spent your hard earned on.
Edited by B NEGATIVE - 5/1/14 at 1:26pm
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post #66842 of 106733
But haven't other coolants had issues with said component manufacturers, not disagreeing with you but ek's nickel plated products have kept me from purchasing water blocks for my gpu's since they don't carry a full cover in copper, but again I have yet to personally use Mayhems products either due to compatibility issues as well. Which is why I have stuck with distilled and a kill coil and had zero issues in the 6 months I've had my loop running and even added a new pump top, some new primo lines, and a rad. I think it comes down to thoroughly flushing the components (only used distilled and primo's sysprep and flushed for 5-8hrs).
Edited by DarthBaggins - 5/1/14 at 1:28pm
 
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post #66843 of 106733
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBaggins View Post

But haven't other coolants had issues with said component manufacturers, not disagreeing with you but ek's nickel plated products have kept me from purchasing water blocks for my gpu's since they don't carry a full cover in copper, but again I have yet to personally use Mayhems products either due to compatibility issues as well.

Nope,but in Mick defense,he has a much broader range of products to go wrong....

EK's nickel woes are behind them now,I have not seen a Nickel ermagherrrrrrrrrred thread for a long time now,if any EK fails were going around,RRT would of been all over it.

Just my 2c,wash your kit in whatever you feel comfortable with
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post #66844 of 106733
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Now that surprises me greatly,XSPC have been really good for that kind of thing,but plating damage where the substance has been sitting points directly at a corrosive and a pokey one at that,Nickel plate is pretty tough.. Rad flux is water soluble,im not surprised that it just wiped off but would it just wash off as easily?
Why the vinegar btw?
That being the case, it didn't wash off until I used the vinegar. I've always used vinegar to flush parts first as that's what I read awhile back when I got into this. Considering that I do test the Ph of the loop, I wouldn't think the acidic property of it would be a concern.

My chemist friend thinks it might be a result of the DI water leeching metals and then depositing them after a slight temperature change (reservoir is directly after both rads).

His other thought is that it might be salt deposits, but that doesn't seem likely.
Edited by Michalius - 5/1/14 at 1:37pm
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post #66845 of 106733
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michalius View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Now that surprises me greatly,XSPC have been really good for that kind of thing,but plating damage where the substance has been sitting points directly at a corrosive and a pokey one at that,Nickel plate is pretty tough.. Rad flux is water soluble,im not surprised that it just wiped off but would it just wash off as easily?
Why the vinegar btw?
That being the case, it didn't wash off until I used the vinegar. I've always used vinegar to flush parts first as that's what I read awhile back when I got into this. Considering that I do test the Ph of the loop, I wouldn't think the acidic property of it would be a concern.

My chemist friend thinks it might be a result of the DI water leeching metals and then depositing them after a slight temperature change (reservoir is directly after both rads).

Wouldnt explain the corrosive effect tho,how long exactly was sitting drying?
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post #66846 of 106733
The bit of nickel that is missing from the aqualis pipe was there when I initially drained it. It actually lined up perfectly with the water line in the res.

It's been dry for 1 week now though.

*edit*

And just so people know in this thread, I'm almost positive it's a result of something that *I* did. I'm not trying to find a fault with products, but rather with what I do to prepare and maintain my loop.

Here's what chemist friend had to say:
Quote:
Ya
Imo
That isn't copper oxidizing bro, that's organics, probably from machining. Grab gasoline or nail polish remover, rub on brown. If brown wipes better with these organic strippers, then it's an organic.

You should think of flushing with something organic
Alcohol is wekest and easily doable
Can do glyxols or acetone or paint stripper.
Then use alcohol after the harsh organic stripper to get rid of the organic stripper. Then water.
No amount of water is going to flush organic contaminants from machining
You are right about oxide layer protecting copper
Which is why you don't want to clean with acid s as you may dissolve that layer
They have specific flushes that create that layer btw
They prime copper tubes by running certain chemicals to create that layer

Edited by Michalius - 5/1/14 at 1:48pm
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post #66847 of 106733
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michalius View Post

The bit of nickel that is missing from the aqualis pipe was there when I initially drained it. It actually lined up perfectly with the water line in the res.

It's been dry for 1 week now though.

Something floating on the waterline,a film of something acidic.

Im sticking with rad flux and I want a sammich.
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post #66848 of 106733
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Something floating on the waterline,a film of something acidic.

Im sticking with rad flux and I want a sammich.
If you were local, I'd make you one for the help tongue.gif
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post #66849 of 106733
We have seen plenty of nickel death since the EN clean up. Most of them never run anti-corrosive in their loops. wth.gif though lots of them run silver!rolleyes.gif
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post #66850 of 106733
my new EVGA water loop

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