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post #67971 of 106437
I second that, I use a koolance filter sometimes, and when I check it part way through the month, sometimes I'll see things in there you would have no idea where it came from lol
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post #67972 of 106437
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

No problem,just wash the components individually rather than build it then flush it,all you will do is spread any contaminants otherwise.

So I use the pump and each piece, one after the other to flush it correctly?
post #67973 of 106437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dortheleus View Post

So I use the pump and each piece, one after the other to flush it correctly?

You can just flush the Rads on their own by filling them up, giving them a shake and let the water back out. Repeat a few times. Be careful when using boiling water. Boiled water can leave a film of crap in the Rad if your kettle has not been cleaned and flushed.

Does anyone know what this is? (See the silver/grey inside the Rad)
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post #67974 of 106437
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dortheleus View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

No problem,just wash the components individually rather than build it then flush it,all you will do is spread any contaminants otherwise.

So I use the pump and each piece, one after the other to flush it correctly?

You dont need to use the pump at all.

This is my routine,had it for years...mixed copper and nickel....silver in some rigs with nickel....all the things people say no to. These are long term loops,12/18 months maintenance.

I have NEVER had a plating nor corrosion issue.

Rads.

1. Run the hot tap from your sink into 1 port of the rad,leave with the tap running for 5 minutes (enough time for a smoke)
2 .Drain the rad to half full and shake.
3. Repeat 1 and 2 twice.
4 Dunk the rad in a bucket of DI,half fill and shake.
5 .Drain in to the sink.
6 .Repeat 4 and 5
7. On the last rinse,hold a finger over one port and place the rad in to the bucket and blow down the other port,you are checking for watertightness,air means a leak
8 .Dry and fit.

Blocks.

1. Wash the block in a light detergent,you are aiming to remove the cutting fluids which can be oil based. Rinse with DI water.
2. If you are willing to strip the block then do so,look for machine swarf and debris in microchannels.
3. Dry,assemble and fit.

Tops and res.

1. Wash in a light detergent
2. Rinse with DI
3. Dry and fit.

If you want to check any stripped down and reassembled blocks for watertightness then submerge the block with 2 bits of tube attached and blow in to one side while the other is sealed....like you would test a bike innertube.
Thats it,all I have ever needed to do and its all I recommend. I have been doing this for a long time with zero problems.
People massively over complicate things that really are very simple.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dortheleus View Post

So I use the pump and each piece, one after the other to flush it correctly?

You can just flush the Rads on their own by filling them up, giving them a shake and let the water back out. Repeat a few times. Be careful when using boiling water. Boiled water can leave a film of crap in the Rad if your kettle has not been cleaned and flushed.

Does anyone know what this is? (See the silver/grey inside the Rad)

Solder from the tube union
Edited by B NEGATIVE - 5/16/14 at 10:34am
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post #67975 of 106437
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post

[...] Does anyone know what this is? (See the silver/grey inside the Rad) Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Reminds me of this recent topic, just not near as bad ...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1488282/phobya-1080-radiator-is-this-normal-or-it-is-a-manufacturing-issue/
post #67976 of 106437
My First WC Loop.....built a number o PC's over the last 7 yrs or so, but got so tired of the 15 "whooosh" from my GPU's, finally took the leap.
Thanks to all the advice I got from some Members over at HWC's and Daz.....certainly not crazy OC's but evrything is adequate for my single 1440p Dell wink.gif

CPU 3930K stable:
4.85 Ghz - 4.9 Ghz (Offset Mode +.095v , vcore under load 1.395 - 1.41v
GTX 780Ti's
Core +155 Mhz Memory + 266 Mhz

Ambient Temp 22c
CPU Max Temps LinX 65 - 72c / Gaming BF4 65c on one core the rest arounf high 50's
GPU Looping Heaven 30 min or an Hr BF4 settles at GPU #1 47c / GPU #2 45c - Both GU's seem to idle at whatever the ambient Temp is.

Cooling:
2 x EX360 (push / pull)
Photon 170 D5 Combo
EK Full WB's on Ti's
EK Supremacy CPU

I am going to be making some minor changes (not really necessary but looking for excuses to "play" ), intend to:
- Replace top EX 360 push / pull with RX 480 V3 push
- Add additional EX 240 below along with the existing EX 360 (both will be push only)

Essentially trying to improve cooling a tad more while eliminating push / pull, looking for a little quieter.

Cheers n thanks for stopping by.....really enjoy the info available on this Forum wink.gif









post #67977 of 106437
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post

I currently have it set to 3.5 and it is very quiet now. Anything higher presents issues.
[/SPOILER]
Thank you.

using that 90* fitting is probably causing cavitation at the higher speed. the res cant keep up with the pump flow because the fitting is limiting it. as i said earlier, use a double rotary 90* fitting, aka 2 45* fittings as a single elbow.
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post #67978 of 106437
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

using that 90* fitting is probably causing cavitation at the higher speed. the res cant keep up with the pump flow because the fitting is limiting it. as i said earlier, use a double rotary 90* fitting, aka 2 45* fittings as a single elbow.

I will look into your suggestion for the next time I break my loop down. Right now I'm running at speed 3.5 and finally the pump is silent from whining and vibrations. Anything faster causes issues. I would have thought that cavitation in general is caused by using angle fittings on the outlet? FYI, when I was filling the loop, it took the pump about 2 secons to suck all the fluid out of the Res at speed 4. Could this mean that the 90 fitting is not a limiting factor. That fluid shifted might quick!
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post #67979 of 106437
@DarthBaggins

I wasn't speaking for myself. I get my distilled water from Wally World, but there are few who live in less accessible locations that have reported here not being able to drive down to a local store and buying distilled water.
post #67980 of 106437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pimphare View Post

@DarthBaggins

I wasn't speaking for myself. I get my distilled water from Wally World, but there are few who live in less accessible locations that have reported here not being able to drive down to a local store and buying distilled water.
Not sure where the original post's author lives but Amazon would most likely have it in their area.
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