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post #74371 of 106456
Got a couple quick questions

1. Would a dual 180mm rad be enough for a 4790k, chipset , and either two 980s? (or a 990 if one is made)

2. Would a single DDC pump have enough flow for CPU, Chipset, Ram, and 1-2 GPUs?

3. Is a DDC pump like the D5 is the aspect of it can be mounting in any position except upside down?
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post #74372 of 106456
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
@tp I am not too worried about reliability as I am in the last year of warranty on both my Drives and I'm really not interested in cooling them with a fan since my mod is gonna kibosh alot of the airflow going to the 5.25 bay. I do intend to go with a mini ITX setup to build my own NAS box but that's a future project and my drives will need to be cooled better than at ambient temp. Especially in the Summers. If I had something hold them inside a flow path(HDD cage is gone afaic) then I wouldn't even sweat including them in the loop. wink.gif
For sure but man that thing would look like a BOSS with Hardline instead of flexible tubing. Yeah I know... but I been BIT an hard by the Hardline bug. cool.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Yeah, nothing beats the clean look of Hardline tubing. Maybe one day I'll try it again too.

I just got done leak testing and wiring my machine. I just need to re-do the wiring for my lights.


post #74373 of 106456
Lookin good LBH. thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qu1ckset View Post

Got a couple quick questions

1. Would a dual 180mm rad be enough for a 4790k, chipset , and either two 980s? (or a 990 if one is made)

2. Would a single DDC pump have enough flow for CPU, Chipset, Ram, and 1-2 GPUs?

3. Is a DDC pump like the D5 is the aspect of it can be mounting in any position except upside down?

1. Pretty sure that would do the job.

2. Should, but paired with the dual 180 I am not sure that it would be up to the task since I don't know the kind of restrictions you're working with. Others who do run DDC and a dual 180 should have better knowledge than me. Heck I run dual DDC for my lowly 360, CPU and MB blocks. tongue.gif

3. Yes DDC can be mounted in any position except upside down. smile.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #74374 of 106456
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Because it isn't actually the fan speed that it's correlating to directly . . . . . RPM is only a fan specific, inferential correlation.

It's the actual CFM thru the rad that the temp correlates to, and it doesn't matter which fan you have, . . . X CFM = Y temp

If Fan A was the tester's fan, and gives you 50CFM thru the rad at 1200 rpm,

Getting the same 50 CFM thru the rad from Fan B may only need 900 rpm so that 1200 rpm would actually give ~65, . . . while Fan C needs 1600 rpm and Fan D needs 1800 rpm to get the 50CFM, then they'd only be getting 35 to 40 CFM at 1200 rpm

Fan B would give better results than the tester's fan, while C & D would have given worse.


Testing using the same components gets you relative information, but doesn't yield a particularly reliable way to extrapolate that to different components.

Relative testing can certainly help the tester evaluate what works best from the selection of options he has to work with, but it's poorly translatable beyond that . . . . .

That was the whole crux of the conversation.

Darlene

Any one who picks a fan wholly based on RPM is like this guy

as for measuring air flow by velocity rather than volume probably didn't study physics

Yes you are right you will need something like a mass air flow meter and from my experience with ultra sonic/mag flow meters the lead into the meter will need to at very bare minimum 5x the diameter of the pipe and 10x diameter behind to prevent turbulence giving inaccurate readings. in some installation guides they will even recommend up to 20x in front and 50x behind.

and don.t be confused with car mass air flow meter installations as they are calibrated to computer and O2 sensor
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post #74375 of 106456
Quote:
Originally Posted by feznz View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Because it isn't actually the fan speed that it's correlating to directly . . . . . RPM is only a fan specific, inferential correlation.

It's the actual CFM thru the rad that the temp correlates to, and it doesn't matter which fan you have, . . . X CFM = Y temp

If Fan A was the tester's fan, and gives you 50CFM thru the rad at 1200 rpm,

Getting the same 50 CFM thru the rad from Fan B may only need 900 rpm so that 1200 rpm would actually give ~65, . . . while Fan C needs 1600 rpm and Fan D needs 1800 rpm to get the 50CFM, then they'd only be getting 35 to 40 CFM at 1200 rpm

Fan B would give better results than the tester's fan, while C & D would have given worse.


Testing using the same components gets you relative information, but doesn't yield a particularly reliable way to extrapolate that to different components.

Relative testing can certainly help the tester evaluate what works best from the selection of options he has to work with, but it's poorly translatable beyond that . . . . .

That was the whole crux of the conversation.

Darlene

Any one who picks a fan wholly based on RPM is like this guy

as for measuring air flow by velocity rather than volume probably didn't study physics

Yes you are right you will need something like a mass air flow meter and from my experience with ultra sonic/mag flow meters the lead into the meter will need to at very bare minimum 5x the diameter of the pipe and 10x diameter behind to prevent turbulence giving inaccurate readings. in some installation guides they will even recommend up to 20x in front and 50x behind.

and don.t be confused with car mass air flow meter installations as they are calibrated to computer and O2 sensor


Actually, if you know the velocity and several other factors, you can determine the CFM.

Modern technology is pretty amazing, there are a lot of instruments of more than sufficient accuracy, available at prices that an enthusiast can manage, that were unimaginable not that many years ago.

I just ordered one of these today so that I can get real CFM numbers to do some more testing:

http://www.amazonsupply.com/amprobe-tma10a-anemometer-flexible-precision/dp/B0028YQI3Y

Darlene
post #74376 of 106456
So tubing in and pump has been running for hours now and no leaks thumb.gif



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post #74377 of 106456
Quote:
Originally Posted by WeirdHarold View Post

So tubing in and pump has been running for hours now and no leaks thumb.gif




That purple n green looks nice thumb.gif
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post #74378 of 106456
Hey everyone smile.gif I asked this a while ago, but got no response unfortunately redface.gif

Currently I've got a 360mm and a 560mm Black Ice SR-1 radiator in my rig. I'm running a 3930K (4.4GHz, 1.36-1.376V) along with dual Radeon 290Xs (1050/1320, stock volts). While folding, the CPU will hit 73C on the hottest core, and the 290Xs will top out at 55C on the top card with an ambient of around 23.3C in my room. I'm wanting to try to push my CPU even further than I have it already, but the only way I can see to lower my temps without making my rig super loud is to stick another rad in it... I've got space for a thin 480mm radiator in the top for exhaust, would that make a decent sized dent in my temps?

I'm also suspicious that I've got a bad mount on my CPU. I need to tear it down and drain it to swap a few loop parts, so I'll try remounting and looking for better temps. Also, would it be worth it going from a normal EK Supremacy to a Supremacy EVO?

Thanks thumb.gif

-Zepp
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post #74379 of 106456
Quote:
Originally Posted by ledzepp3 View Post

Hey everyone smile.gif I asked this a while ago, but got no response unfortunately redface.gif

Currently I've got a 360mm and a 560mm Black Ice SR-1 radiator in my rig. I'm running a 3930K (4.4GHz, 1.36-1.376V) along with dual Radeon 290Xs (1050/1320, stock volts). While folding, the CPU will hit 73C on the hottest core, and the 290Xs will top out at 55C on the top card with an ambient of around 23.3C in my room. I'm wanting to try to push my CPU even further than I have it already, but the only way I can see to lower my temps without making my rig super loud is to stick another rad in it... I've got space for a thin 480mm radiator in the top for exhaust, would that make a decent sized dent in my temps?

I'm also suspicious that I've got a bad mount on my CPU. I need to tear it down and drain it to swap a few loop parts, so I'll try remounting and looking for better temps. Also, would it be worth it going from a normal EK Supremacy to a Supremacy EVO?

Thanks thumb.gif

-Zepp

With that much rad space, I'd say your first step should be to check the mount. The 480 wouldn't hurt, but I don't think you'd need it. Dunno about the Supremacy vs EVO comparison, though. Haven't been following along much.
Dani
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Dani
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post #74380 of 106456
Quote:
Originally Posted by ledzepp3 View Post

Hey everyone smile.gif I asked this a while ago, but got no response unfortunately redface.gif

Currently I've got a 360mm and a 560mm Black Ice SR-1 radiator in my rig. I'm running a 3930K (4.4GHz, 1.36-1.376V) along with dual Radeon 290Xs (1050/1320, stock volts). While folding, the CPU will hit 73C on the hottest core, and the 290Xs will top out at 55C on the top card with an ambient of around 23.3C in my room. I'm wanting to try to push my CPU even further than I have it already, but the only way I can see to lower my temps without making my rig super loud is to stick another rad in it... I've got space for a thin 480mm radiator in the top for exhaust, would that make a decent sized dent in my temps?

I'm also suspicious that I've got a bad mount on my CPU. I need to tear it down and drain it to swap a few loop parts, so I'll try remounting and looking for better temps. Also, would it be worth it going from a normal EK Supremacy to a Supremacy EVO?

Thanks thumb.gif

-Zepp

Well I look at it like this when looking at CPU blocks...

If I'm gonna spend $80+ on a new CPU block the reasons are:
  1. Broken
  2. At least a 5 deg performance gain
  3. Changing color/look of my loop

I have an RoG board and have the EK Supreme. It's an outstanding block. It fits my color scheme quite well although I would like one of the new Epogee blocks with the RoG logo. But if I am gonna spend that kind of change, it has to be worth it. Epogee is a solid block but the performance gain is negligible and looks are great an all but not worth $80 unless I inherit a BC bank. The new Clean CSQ blocks are interesting but I'm relatively sure that the gains with those aren't currently worth it.

Which leads me to...

Building another system. Now THERE is where I will spend my $80+. Then it comes right down to who has the better performance an if Epogee is that then it goes in the current system and if I can get a new/slightly used Supreme top that matches my choice of colors for the new system, it's all good in Ceadderland. thumb.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
AMD Phenom II X6 1100T Crosshair IV Formula Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 
RAMRAMRAMHard Drive
Corsair Dominator G. Skill Ripjaws X G. Skill x2 HITACHI 1TB Deskstars 1TB RAID0 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
ASUS DRW-24B1ST  Swiftech 6950/6870 GPU Heatsink Swiftech 6950/6870 GPU Heatsink Monsoon 1/2"x5/8" PETG White Hardline tubing. 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Monsoon Economy Hardline fittings EK Dual DDC V2 top Swiftech Pump DDC-1T (2) Liquid Fusion V Double helix Reservoir 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Yate Loon 120x20 (D12SM-12C) Medium Speed Silen... EK Supreme HF Classified EK Thermosphere GPU Block EK Thermosphere GPU Block 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Win7 64 bit Ultimate OEM Asus VH222H Black HDMI Widescreen Logitech the OCZ went buhbye adios. Don't know ... Corsair CMPSU HX 850w Modular 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
HAF 932 Logitech g9x COOLER MASTER Weapon of Choice: M4 Duramesh Pad Logitech X-240 2.1 speakers 
OtherOther
Sunbeam Rheosmart 3 Creative X-Fi 
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