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post #74381 of 107321
Hey guys, few questions about the aquero 5 lt that I will be using for my build in the next few months:

•I should be fine hooking 8x 1850 GT's upto one channel and 3x 1450's to another right?

•I don't have a PWM pump but it does have a rpm readout, do i just connect this to any spare fan header?

•Can you setup warnings for the pump rpm failing/ dropping to a certain point, or do I need a flow meter?

•If I want to attach a heatsink to the fan chips (not one made by aquero) should I screw it on or use adhesive compound?

Though I would ask here first as I assume many people in the watercooling thread would have experience on these.
Any tips or info you would like to add would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
post #74382 of 107321
Quote:
Originally Posted by timerwin63 View Post

With that much rad space, I'd say your first step should be to check the mount. The 480 wouldn't hurt, but I don't think you'd need it. Dunno about the Supremacy vs EVO comparison, though. Haven't been following along much.
I'll definitely try the mount first to see if that helps. I don't think the orientation of the block would make a huge difference in temperatures, and I'd have to redo some of tubing setup around the CPU socket.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Well I look at it like this when looking at CPU blocks...

If I'm gonna spend $80+ on a new CPU block the reasons are:
  1. Broken
  2. At least a 5 deg performance gain
  3. Changing color/look of my loop

I have an RoG board and have the EK Supreme. It's an outstanding block. It fits my color scheme quite well although I would like one of the new Epogee blocks with the RoG logo. But if I am gonna spend that kind of change, it has to be worth it. Epogee is a solid block but the performance gain is negligible and looks are great an all but not worth $80 unless I inherit a BC bank. The new Clean CSQ blocks are interesting but I'm relatively sure that the gains with those aren't currently worth it.

Which leads me to...

Building another system. Now THERE is where I will spend my $80+. Then it comes right down to who has the better performance an if Epogee is that then it goes in the current system and if I can get a new/slightly used Supreme top that matches my choice of colors for the new system, it's all good in Ceadderland. thumb.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

I used to have an Apogee HD, it was a wicked sweet block biggrin.gif I really like EK products as well as Swiftech, but I wanna keep the entire block setup EK.

Thank you guys for the advice thumb.gif I'll do another mount within a few weeks when I clean out my fan filters, and report back if there's any changes smile.gif

-Zepp
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post #74383 of 107321






Got a new desk and added some lights. thumb.gif
     
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post #74384 of 107321
First run and it works fine.

First run!
post #74385 of 107321
Id put a little foam strip (that adhesive kind at home depot) around the edge of the back side of that radiator on the case side to seal up the edges so you get better suction through the radiator.
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post #74386 of 107321
Quote:
Originally Posted by ledzepp3 View Post

Hey everyone smile.gif I asked this a while ago, but got no response unfortunately redface.gif

Currently I've got a 360mm and a 560mm Black Ice SR-1 radiator in my rig. I'm running a 3930K (4.4GHz, 1.36-1.376V) along with dual Radeon 290Xs (1050/1320, stock volts). While folding, the CPU will hit 73C on the hottest core, and the 290Xs will top out at 55C on the top card with an ambient of around 23.3C in my room. I'm wanting to try to push my CPU even further than I have it already, but the only way I can see to lower my temps without making my rig super loud is to stick another rad in it... I've got space for a thin 480mm radiator in the top for exhaust, would that make a decent sized dent in my temps?

I'm also suspicious that I've got a bad mount on my CPU. I need to tear it down and drain it to swap a few loop parts, so I'll try remounting and looking for better temps. Also, would it be worth it going from a normal EK Supremacy to a Supremacy EVO?

Thanks thumb.gif

-Zepp

Without knowing your coolant temps or your individual processors IHS->Core temp delta we cannot say whether or not more rad space will help you.

Like stated, I would first look at your mount since your GPU temps are not bad so your rads seem to be enough.
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post #74387 of 107321
post #74388 of 107321




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post #74389 of 107321
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jameswalt1 View Post





Beautiful James :) :thumb:

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post #74390 of 107321
I'ld like to comment on the rad testing discussion a few pages back (sorry, been a bit distracted at home and just catching up)

Heat dissipation that a rad is capable of can be a rather tricky thing to determine, and as I have discovered requires quite a specific testing environment.
Using a running system for the heat/power load just isn't doable because so much heat is lost into the air from the components that the actual load on the rad is unknown.
You need
  • a custom test environment where the heat source can be controlled - an aquarium heater is the tool for this. (safety must be bypassed though for a constant load)
  • everything must be fully insulated to avoid heat loss into the air, so that a known power/heat load is entering the rad.
  • multiple temp sensors on rad ports and air inlet (ambient) to get good averages to base the data on.

Rad testing is definitely not for everyone as it can require a lot of patience, redoing tests is not uncommon to get truly accurate data.
Usually the hardest variable to control is a steady ambient temp over the test period - I've settled for 0.5°C variance over a 15 minute test period (after equalization)
Coolant temp equalization can be frustratingly difficult to achieve, with multiple temp sensors that detect small changes, either from power input, or ambient air. redface.gif
Another weird one to overcome is the mains power variance - even when I control the aquarium heater with a Variac, the mains supply often throws my test out with different Power levels at different temperatures and times of the day.
So have to keep an eye on this for constant/ish load to the coolant from the heater.
3 Watts (1%) power difference will change the coolant temps - blowing averages for the test, and having to restart.
Likewise the ambient air temps greatly affect the coolant temp readings (obviously) - even walking in front of the air intake of the test chamber gives small spikes in air temp.
It is not very tester friendly - rad thermal testing !!!

A formula for heat dissipation can be used to calculate the power being removed from the coolant by the rad (in watts)
This info in itself is still a specific figure for that particular test set environment for the given test parameters (ambient temp, flow rate, fan rpm, CFM ect)
I find it useful myself so will be including it in my results when I post them.
But a watts dissipated by itself without the parameters is useless.
For example you can have 2 tests with different fan speeds - high and low (high & low CFM) that have very similar Watts Dissipated results - because the power/heat input is the same,
But of course the DeltaT number is hugely different with the 2 tests, as the low speed fans won't be able to get the coolant anywhere near as low as the high speed fans - up to 10°C difference I've seen recently.

Solution is of course that we combine the DeltaT with the known and controlled power/heat input gives us a thermal test result which is much more comparable result.

So the piece of data that matters the most IMHO is the W/10C - being the Watts Dissipated per 10°C DeltaT
or even a W/1C - Watts Dissipated per 1°C DeltaT.
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