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post #7611 of 106449
why do people still use dye? do they not care or they dont know the negative effects?

honest question , lol
post #7612 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmer Boe View Post
The green stuff is actually swiftech hydrx additive. I will be running fesar stuff by this weekend though.
That is still UV dye. Get rid of it. Trust me.
Go to the store and get distilled water. Then use a kill coil or some PT nuke.
No coolant, no dye, no premixed anything.
Anything that claims to be non conductive, guess what, so is distilled water. Water isn't conductive, it is the salts and minerals that make it conductive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark View Post
Some poor cell phone pics, I'll pull out the DSLR another day.

My sig box with a modified H70 system (additional 120mm radiator and added a micro reservoir).



My project box (Q9550) with an XSPC Rasa RS240 kit, additional 240mm radiator, Swiftech NB block, and a 4890 with an EK copper/nickel block. All stuffed inside a mini P180.
You too. get rid of the dye. I promise you don't want to have to clean that H70 block.
post #7613 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by koven View Post
why do people still use dye? do they not care or they dont know the negative effects?

honest question , lol
I say it's a 50/50 split between not knowing and not caring

Quote:
Originally Posted by mastical View Post
I have an RX360 with 6 yate loon 25mm. It sits right on top of my mobo. Its so close. 38mm wouldnt work.
I'm not talking about 38mm, I was using my 38mm UK's as a reference to how close it is already and if 25mm fans in push/pull (50mm in total) would fit because I want to get rid of them. But you answered my question since you have an RX360 with push/pull.
post #7614 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by thrasherht View Post
You too. get rid of the dye. I promise you don't want to have to clean that H70 block.
It's Feser One Non-Conductive Cooling Fluid.
I'm not at all worried about the H70, once it dies it's getting replaced.

Aside from that, the fluid will get changed our as often as quarterly, I'll make sure to give a non-dye fluid a chance at my next go.
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un-overkill
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post #7615 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark View Post
It's Feser One Non-Conductive Cooling Fluid.
I'm not at all worried about the H70, once it dies it's getting replaced.

Aside from that, the fluid will get changed our as often as quarterly, I'll make sure to give a non-dye fluid a chance at my next go.
Now, see i don't think you understand. It doesn't matter what the company says, that stuff seperates out and clogs up your blocks, and it does it quick some times. Go get distilled water and some biocide of some sort. If you aren't using the aluminum rads then can just use those things.
post #7616 of 106449
Hes right. Its turns into a mess fast.
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post #7617 of 106449
Don't make us pull out the horror pictures.
post #7618 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdvanSuper View Post
I say it's a 50/50 split between not knowing and not caring
I don't run die, but you know what with all the experts here & all the threads about how you should stay away from it, I have yet to see 1 post where someone specifies a rough time line of *when* the die begins to separate.

1 month? 2 months? 2 years? What?

As long as you flush & cycle the fluid, it will cost you more to keep paying for die but I don't see you destroying your components like a bunch of people are trying to scare others in to thinking.

So... what is the estimated time one should cycle their coolent? OR... when should one expect die to separate?

That would be some helpful information over the other thread on this forum that just has everyone talking about how bad it is and showing screenshots. That's fine & all but... no one says WHEN this can or could occur.
    
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post #7619 of 106449
seriously... the only way I would use anything other than water again is if I went with a chilled loop. I would then use clear propylene glycol. Forget the colored crap. I used it on my first build and thankfully had no gunk because of a koolance inline filter (that had to be cleaned like weekly after a while)
 
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post #7620 of 106449
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokiez View Post
I don't run die, but you know what with all the experts here & all the threads about how you should stay away from it, I have yet to see 1 post where someone specifies a rough time line of *when* the die begins to separate.

1 month? 2 months? 2 years? What?

As long as you flush & cycle the fluid, it will cost you more to keep paying for die but I don't see you destroying your components like a bunch of people are trying to scare others in to thinking.

So... what is the estimated time one should cycle their coolent? OR... when should one expect die to separate?

That would be some helpful information over the other thread on this forum that just has everyone talking about how bad it is and showing screenshots. That's fine & all but... no one says WHEN this can or could occur.
that is the thing, there is no line, some people have had it last a year, some have had it seperate in as little at 2 months.

But most of the time it is within about 3 to 4 months. But coolant is a ripoff anyway. Like the aqua pure stuff, its like 5 dollars a liter. It is nothing more then distilled water. you can buy that for a dollar or so a gallon at the store.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...led-water.html
That thread should be stickied.
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