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post #7701 of 106457
It's a little hard to tell, but it looks like your loop is setup alright. The only thing that you may want to change is the order. It looks like you are going Res>Pump>CPU>Radiator>Res. If I were you, I would go from the pump to the radiator, then from the radiator to the CPU. The pump adds some heat to the water, so sending it to the radiator before the CPU would allow the radiator to dissipate that heat. The coolest water in the loop will be going to your CPU then.
    
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post #7702 of 106457
Quote:
Originally Posted by markag View Post
It's a little hard to tell, but it looks like your loop is setup alright. The only thing that you may want to change is the order. It looks like you are going Res>Pump>CPU>Radiator>Res. If I were you, I would go from the pump to the radiator, then from the radiator to the CPU. The pump adds some heat to the water, so sending it to the radiator before the CPU would allow the radiator to dissipate that heat. The coolest water in the loop will be going to your CPU then.
Nice HAF X rig. I love that case but I also love my Cosmos. I wish there was a case that was the mean look of HAF X but the top panel of my black Cosmos. That would be perfect
    
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post #7703 of 106457
A little update.
Finally got some Scythe fans, but the CPU power cable is blocking the way and I had to use a slim.



I don't have any screws that could hold it so I used tape ;D

Going to remove the honeycomb on the top for improved airflow from the middle fan.



Also adding some green cathodes on the side of them and inside.

Current to do list:
Green tubing
45 degree fittings
XSPC D5 Bayres
Green cathodes

I have ordered everything but its out of stock.

Also need a real camera and not a crappy iPhail
Edited by dryg - 2/4/11 at 10:51am
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post #7704 of 106457
Cheap shrouds

I was about to order a bunch of $20 shrouds... then came across a post mentioning you can just use unused cheap fans by ripping them out and smoothing things out so... knowing it would be an impossible task I put my dremel to use:





I'm proud of my uber hard work! jk.
    
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post #7705 of 106457
updated
post #7706 of 106457
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokiez View Post
You have a leak over the block or something?

I'm new to this as well... relatively... but one rule I fallow & recommend you do as well is... do not over tighten (aside from the rule that you should leak test first)

If stuff leaks... shut it off if you did not leak test first... then tighten some more. So on & so fort.

If you use those cheap screw in barbs... there is lots of room for error to either over tighten or not tight enough.

I use these clamps ... they are AWESOME.
leak test? what is that? I always put everything together "properly" and hope for the best. It's worked out great for years now. I would definitely suggest it for those who aren't 100% confident with their work.
 
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Project Atlantis
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i7 3960X w/ EK Supreme HF  Asus Rampage IV Extreme w/ EK full cover Tri SLi EVGA GTX TITAN SC w/ EK full cover & Ba... 64 GB Dominator w/ MIPS Ram Cooler 
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2x Hardware Labs Black Ice GTX 280 Hardware Labs Black Ice GTX 480 Dual Uber MCP655 Noiseblocker PK-3  
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Bitspower Compression Fittings Lamptron FC-8 Noiseblocker PL-2 Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit 
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post #7707 of 106457
Quote:
Originally Posted by dryg View Post
A little update.
Finally got some Scythe fans, but the CPU power cable is blocking the way and I had to use a slim.



I don't have any screws that could hold it so I used tape ;D

Going to remove the honeycomb on the top for improved airflow from the middle fan.
Also adding some green cathodes on the side of them and inside.

Current to do list:
Green tubing
45 degree fittings
XSPC D5 Bayres
Green cathodes

I have ordered everything but its out of stock.

Also need a real camera and not a crappy iPhail
That's why I did not go with HAF-X. Its a very tight squeeze for push/pull with a thick rad. Which rad do you have btw?
Edited by wermad - 2/4/11 at 11:33am
post #7708 of 106457
Quote:
Originally Posted by fat_italian_stallion View Post
leak test? what is that? I always put everything together "properly" and hope for the best. It's worked out great for years now. I would definitely suggest it for those who aren't 100% confident with their work.
You know... each time I take apart or revise my loop and don't touch my CPU block knowing it does not leak... I don't leak test

There comes a point when you know that the fittings & clamps that you use will yield a leak-proof seal 99% of the time.

The only time I ran the loop outside of my system was the 1st time I ever bought the components.

If I ever changed out my CPU block... that would be a case where I'd try & leak test it first before it's mounted on the CPU.

So yeah I break the one little rule & just power off my system quick if I see some funky business
    
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post #7709 of 106457
Quote:
Originally Posted by fat_italian_stallion View Post
leak test? what is that? I always put everything together "properly" and hope for the best. It's worked out great for years now. I would definitely suggest it for those who aren't 100% confident with their work.
As have I, however a couple of days ago when I installed my new EK CPU block I chose to leak test first and it paid off. Turns out that one of the o-rings on my radiator was messed up and I had to drain the loop and take it apart twice just to fix the damn thing. Hadn't been leaking at all the few days earlier when I was running my old CPU block though. Murphy's law I guess.
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post #7710 of 106457
i haven't ever did a real leak test, the first time i setup watercooling i powered it up with everything installed mobo gpu it all cept just all unpluged and psu jumped, but i got tired of watching water go though tubes after about 5 min so i hooked it up and started to oc!
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