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post #81931 of 100899
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taint3dBulge View Post

Well, I finally have gotten around to putting the whole thing under water. Temps are down on the cpu by 13c and gpu only gets to around 43c while playn bf4. thats way cooler, and I can actaully tell in the game that it feels almost smoother now being cooler..

I just wish I woulda known that the screws for the 780ti classy backplate would of worked with the EK block.. Well i might have to find some screws that do actually fit the thing, i like the looks of the evga plate better then the EK plate. anyways here is a pic, need to finish up some stuff but what ya'll think? Will post some better pics with my dslr later. biggrin.gif


What are those angled fittings you are using? They look nice.
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post #81932 of 100899
My 1st gaming rig, 1st Watercooling loop and 2nd PC build overall...not too bad I think.

And yes, I know i could've made the runs a bit shorter, but I liked the idea of having a rad in between each component (970s sort of being one, since it's all one piece with 1 input & 1 output) even though I know it won't make that much of a difference anyway. All in all though, after taking some measurements doing it the other way (pump-mobo-rad-cpu-gpu-rad-rad-pump) it only came out to be saving a few inches of tubing and I still would've had quite a few criss-cross tubes anyway, unless I were to cut holes in the top/back corner to run directly from top 360 to the external 240 and back inside the existing hole. Either way, here she is...

7A2A6751-BC6F-4AA3-8A92-21EE46CF9405_zpsyb0j4uns.jpg
2B9BFBE0-36CA-4EFA-B19E-504BF2B64A91_zpsgrneov3i.jpg
DDE00526-13BE-42C7-8AA0-445093C241F6_zpssoy7whfi.jpg
3AECF419-6E31-49DE-8A0B-5F1C960C3803_zpsfk6rdttk.jpg
998DF805-F1EC-4FA3-9975-ECC3BD3BD6CD_zps8ppapw83.jpg
3E57CC39-555B-4BA9-9743-FDA7A1F1D577_zpsrzxpvxrv.jpg
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post #81933 of 100899
Quote:
Originally Posted by seanyx11 View Post

My 1st gaming rig, 1st Watercooling loop and 2nd PC build overall...not too bad I think.


Man, that's beautiful. Your blue and the lighting work really well together, and I love the way the bridge between your cards catches the eye. Excellent!
post #81934 of 100899
I just found this club, still stumbling my way around here and finding things I never knew about. smile.gif I'll join with some pics of a couple of systems I've made.

This was my latest client build, just finished a few days ago. Made for the owner of a local music studio, he decided to call it the Boom Box:




















And I made this one for last year's Quakecon case mod competition. Took first place in the Bethesda-themed category and made the cover of CPU magazine. (Not that I'm bragging or anything...)










post #81935 of 100899
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrosmith View Post

Man, that's beautiful. Your blue and the lighting work really well together, and I love the way the bridge between your cards catches the eye. Excellent!

Thank you sir smile.gif I did a lot of work on getting the lighting just right. After going through uv blue and regular blue, ultimately, plain white led looked the cleanest and showed off the blue accent pieces and coolant the best. I went back and forth for the longest time between the black acetal and the acrylic nickel. Normally I'd have chosen black for a clean simple look, but I just loved the thought of being able to see the coolant through the blocks with the integrated LED lights.
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post #81936 of 100899
Quote:
Originally Posted by seanyx11 View Post

My 1st gaming rig, 1st Watercooling loop and 2nd PC build overall...not too bad I think.

And yes, I know i could've made the runs a bit shorter, but I liked the idea of having a rad in between each component (970s sort of being one, since it's all one piece with 1 input & 1 output) even though I know it won't make that much of a difference anyway. All in all though, after taking some measurements doing it the other way (pump-mobo-rad-cpu-gpu-rad-rad-pump) it only came out to be saving a few inches of tubing and I still would've had quite a few criss-cross tubes anyway, unless I were to cut holes in the top/back corner to run directly from top 360 to the external 240 and back inside the existing hole. Either way, here she is...
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
7A2A6751-BC6F-4AA3-8A92-21EE46CF9405_zpsyb0j4uns.jpg
2B9BFBE0-36CA-4EFA-B19E-504BF2B64A91_zpsgrneov3i.jpg
DDE00526-13BE-42C7-8AA0-445093C241F6_zpssoy7whfi.jpg
3AECF419-6E31-49DE-8A0B-5F1C960C3803_zpsfk6rdttk.jpg
998DF805-F1EC-4FA3-9975-ECC3BD3BD6CD_zps8ppapw83.jpg
3E57CC39-555B-4BA9-9743-FDA7A1F1D577_zpsrzxpvxrv.jpg


Turned out very well thumb.gif Also I want your B&W speakers lol
 
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post #81937 of 100899
hey guys, i wanna properly flush my ss316 pipes in my loop with nitric acid just in case there's some oxide inside. Will it affect the EK nickel plating in the blocks?
Edited by iBored - 3/28/15 at 5:55am
post #81938 of 100899
Any advise you guys can give me on draining my loop. I have a mini valve on the bottom rad but since both rads only have two ports there is no bleed valve I can only open res cap to let air in. I ask because I can suck out the bottom rad withy a syringe and vinyal tubing but a lot of coolant gets stuck in the top bends and rad. Tilting and shaking only helps so much. Was thinking since I have from work bottles of nitrogen with 1/4 hoses that I could use my regulator for the nitrogen and blow through to blow it out. (Nitrogen is used for finding leaks at work on copper lines. It's perfect because it's dry air no moisture )
    
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post #81939 of 100899
I would not recommend blowing them out. What you have is sufficient, just tilt it. Until you can plan a loop that allows for easier bleed, this will work.
post #81940 of 100899
Ok thank you. Yea my next coolant change outside of acrylic panels I will be swapping the bottom rad for a 240 by coolgate the g2 so I can use a 90 off the bottom port and have it drain easier that way. Maybe even add a bleed port to the top rad if possible
    
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ek fc 780 gpu block for gtx 780 ek gtx 780 backplate Petg primochill tubing Primochill Revolver Fittings Silver 
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