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post #92011 of 107090
Just checking in with all of your people. Is there a way to convert a 3pin to a pwm signal? So that I could control my MCP50X's speed with my fan controller? My motherboard suck for controlling it, so it is always super loud.
Thanks in advance.
post #92012 of 107090
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

No doubting the construction skills Underwater.

I will add to your thread rather than start my own 101,you seem to have it in hand. I will look at making a CAD file for your design with the associated mounts tho,its a very workable design.
My only concern has been the glass dust,maybe a drip tip over the cut area would suffice in damping it all down...or a deflector with a vacuum extractor?

Also maybe cutting down on the moving parts by cutting on an angle,could make the clean up easier. I recommend a fine grit diamond block for finishing if abrasives are your thing.

B are u using a small blow torch like those BBQ starters or a big one? when i was playing with acrylic sheets i used a small blow torch to finish up the edges and make them crystal clear again. i know it's the oldest trick in the book for glass but i'm not sure how hot the torch should me.
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ek fc r9 290x  swiftech mcp655 Koolance COV-RP450  EK-CoolStream RAD XT 240mm 
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post #92013 of 107090
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramzinho View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

No doubting the construction skills Underwater.

I will add to your thread rather than start my own 101,you seem to have it in hand. I will look at making a CAD file for your design with the associated mounts tho,its a very workable design.
My only concern has been the glass dust,maybe a drip tip over the cut area would suffice in damping it all down...or a deflector with a vacuum extractor?

Also maybe cutting down on the moving parts by cutting on an angle,could make the clean up easier. I recommend a fine grit diamond block for finishing if abrasives are your thing.

B are u using a small blow torch like those BBQ starters or a big one? when i was playing with acrylic sheets i used a small blow torch to finish up the edges and make them crystal clear again. i know it's the oldest trick in the book for glass but i'm not sure how hot the torch should me.

I use a small jet torch,the same one I use to flame polish acrylic.




http://www.overclock.net/t/1281014/acrylic-bending-101/0_20
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post #92014 of 107090
@B NEGATIVE
Hi bud. Doing some research last night. When you are doing thermal shock, are you using open flame or water?
post #92015 of 107090
I have a question regarding the EK UV Blue Premixed coolant. I'm currently using EK Clear coolant in my loop with Primochill Advanced LRT UV blue tubing along with Darkside UV led strips. I'm quite happy with the UV effects, the only problem is that my 250 EK res looks kinda dull with clear water so I was thinking of switching to the EK Premixed UV Blue coolant in order to give my res a better look with the UV effect. Do you guys recommend the UV Blue from EK? Also, I have a bitspower drain valve in my loop so draining won't be hard but there probably will be some EK clear coolant left in the blocks/rads, would this be an issue if I use the EK UV Blue and they get mixed a little bit? I really don't have time to tear down everything just to get the water out. Thanks.
post #92016 of 107090
Quote:
Originally Posted by EpicOtis13 View Post

Just checking in with all of your people. Is there a way to convert a 3pin to a pwm signal? So that I could control my MCP50X's speed with my fan controller? My motherboard suck for controlling it, so it is always super loud.
Thanks in advance.

no. that pump isnt loud. decouple it from the case.
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post #92017 of 107090
Quote:
Originally Posted by fisher6 View Post

I have a question regarding the EK UV Blue Premixed coolant. I'm currently using EK Clear coolant in my loop with Primochill Advanced LRT UV blue tubing along with Darkside UV led strips. I'm quite happy with the UV effects, the only problem is that my 250 EK res looks kinda dull with clear water so I was thinking of switching to the EK Premixed UV Blue coolant in order to give my res a better look with the UV effect. Do you guys recommend the UV Blue from EK? Also, I have a bitspower drain valve in my loop so draining won't be hard but there probably will be some EK clear coolant left in the blocks/rads, would this be an issue if I use the EK UV Blue and they get mixed a little bit? I really don't have time to tear down everything just to get the water out. Thanks.
here is ek blue premix under darksides and clear tubing.
20150930_075556.jpg I wasn't impressed.

I switched to uv tubing and liked the results much better. The resivoir as you can see doesn't even light up.
20151001_013244.jpg

Much happier with uv tubing.
post #92018 of 107090
Quote:
Originally Posted by funfordcobra View Post

here is ek blue premix under darksides and clear tubing.
20150930_075556.jpg I wasn't impressed.

I switched to uv tubing and liked the results much better. The resivoir as you can see doesn't even light up.
20151001_013244.jpg

Much happier with uv tubing.

wow that looks really bad, is that really UV Blue? I see no UV effect at all. Second pic looks awesome, that's how my tubing looks like currently except the reservoir. I thought EK dyes are made by Mayhems but it looks different from what I have seen.
post #92019 of 107090
All I can think is that the darkside leds are soo bright that they drown out any glow.

The uv coolant showed up slightly better under cathode but cathodes lose their brightness so damn fast. I went to 50% brightness in a month.

Also these aren't true uv. True uv leds and tubes are VERY expensive. Like tanning bed lights. I'm sure there would be a much stronger reaction.

Here's a pic running 2 cold cathodes clear tube and ek uv coolant premix.

20150817_222509.jpg
Edited by funfordcobra - 10/16/15 at 7:09pm
post #92020 of 107090
Quote:
Originally Posted by funfordcobra View Post

All I can think is that the darkside leds are soo bright that they drown out any glow.

The uv coolant showed up slightly better under cathode but cathodes lose their brightness so damn fast. I went to 50% brightness in a month.

Also these aren't true uv. True uv leds and tubes are VERY expensive. Like tanning bed lights. I'm sure there would be a much stronger reaction.

Here's a pic running 2 cold cathodes clear tube and ek uv coolant premix.

20150817_222509.jpg

Hmm, looks quite different from the effect with the Darkside LEDs which is the only ones I have. I got 2 bottles of premixed UV Blue and put it next to the Darkside LED and the effect was alright so I might giv it a try.
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