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post #92611 of 107275
Got fittings?

NPny2Td.jpg
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post #92612 of 107275
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Has anyone had successfully used acrylic tube with threaded g1/4??? I just found three tubes of 1/2x3/4 I bought a while ago after watching the mod-zoo vid. I had a go at it and after a few tries, got some pretty good and strong threads.

Actually, probably the worst thing you can do is to thread the acrylic tube on the inside.

Acrylic is quite weak when being placed under expansion type stresses and will eventually fracture. It is way better when utilised in compression type applications.

It is the reason EK moved away from internally threaded res tubes to having their reservoirs threaded on the outside of the tube so when screwing their end caps on it places the acrylic under compression rather than expansion forces.
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post #92613 of 107275
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Stay far away from the ET male male rotaries Werm. I have one and it corroded. It may have been a factory defect in the finish. But I wasn't overly impressed by it.

Of course that could've been my fault for leaving my loop together after draining too. But I had other ET rotaries in my loop (45s) and not a single one of those corroded. So yeah I hafta say it was the quality and not user mistake that led to the corrosion.



Slight hint of rust between the barrels... :rolleys:


The threads are white due to silicon tape. I know for sure. But being a veteran silicon tape user I don't let it get into the flow chamber so the white stuff on the ends is corrosion and not left over remnants of tape.

So if you plan to do this type of setup, go with XSPC or better still go with BP if they have male male rotaries. wink.gif

+Rep for the info however. Now I know which version of Tap I need to see if I can get it locally. Found a 6-32 tap at NAPA (of all places) and now I will see if they can get me the G1/4 tap I had been having a tough time having them source. smile.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

I'm more inclined to use them for long runs. I have quite a few spare BP fittings and after tapping the threads, the bp fittings were just as good as the XSPC. When i did my testing it was with other brands of fittings. Needs a bit more tweaking and i can get tube locally for cheap.




(the white scratches are external from storage; some polishing will take care of them)

edit: gonna run a little test sample on its own for kicks smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Not that im aware of,cracking is almost guaranteed. Fast Fate did it with properly machined/threaded parts and it pretty much all broke.

Speak to him about it.

I did mine by hand. I don't have a wrench for this g1/4 tap (won't fit 1/2 tapping wrench). I used a ratchet spanner for turning. Nothing has cracked though my initial tries with the BP fittings (short) look promising.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Costas View Post

Actually, probably the worst thing you can do is to thread the acrylic tube on the inside.

Acrylic is quite weak when being placed under expansion type stresses and will eventually fracture. It is way better when utilised in compression type applications.

It is the reason EK moved away from internally threaded res tubes to having their reservoirs threaded on the outside of the tube so when screwing their end caps on it places the acrylic under compression rather than expansion forces.

The id is just about there for a g1/4 tap to grab. I abondoned this project a while back due to the fittings I needed weren't to my liking. After going through my parts bin, I found a bunch of bp fittings i had lying around. I'm thinking of just doing some runs to tidy up and jazz my loop up a bit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by derickwm View Post

Got fittings?

NPny2Td.jpg

Fittings hoarder tongue.gif
Edited by wermad - 11/14/15 at 3:22am
post #92614 of 107275
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Costas View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Has anyone had successfully used acrylic tube with threaded g1/4??? I just found three tubes of 1/2x3/4 I bought a while ago after watching the mod-zoo vid. I had a go at it and after a few tries, got some pretty good and strong threads.

Actually, probably the worst thing you can do is to thread the acrylic tube on the inside.

Acrylic is quite weak when being placed under expansion type stresses and will eventually fracture. It is way better when utilised in compression type applications.

It is the reason EK moved away from internally threaded res tubes to having their reservoirs threaded on the outside of the tube so when screwing their end caps on it places the acrylic under compression rather than expansion forces.

Exactly this.
Couple a few thermal cycles into it and they just let go.

You also need rotary male to male to get the tubes fitted,they do not have the loose tolerances required for easy fitting,you need to be extremely accurate with your runs,any stress placed on the tube with be directly acting on the weakest point which is the threads.

If you think you can get it to work then share your results Wermad?
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post #92615 of 107275
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Stay far away from the ET male male rotaries Werm. I have one and it corroded. It may have been a factory defect in the finish. But I wasn't overly impressed by it.

Of course that could've been my fault for leaving my loop together after draining too. But I had other ET rotaries in my loop (45s) and not a single one of those corroded. So yeah I hafta say it was the quality and not user mistake that led to the corrosion.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Slight hint of rust between the barrels... :rolleys:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Rust is surprising to me. I used those very fittings in my first ever water cooled build without issue. At the time of purchase, I was informed the EnzoTech fittings were made from brass. If that holds true and you had rust in a fitting, you may want to look elsewhere for the rust producer.
post #92616 of 107275
Quote:
Originally Posted by Domler View Post

@emsj86I am using nactua industrial 2000 rpm hooked to a swiftech pwm fan splitter. They run at 650rpm off the cpu fan header. At 650rpm there silent and throu some air. 4790k 1.28v 4.7ghz 360 sr2. Hotest core hits 60. I might crank them up and see what the difference in temp is. I have tried sp120, phantex, bitfenix spectre pro, aerocool,all sound loud compared to the nactua. Wanted to try gt and the vardars, can't speak about them. But I sure do love my nactuas.

I got some cleaning to do and figure out wether to get an extended roof or put my full window top with no window in and let them stick out just a touch. Either way that's two feet from my head open to the world and they are quiet.
See that's my point if frustration right there my hottest core on occt is 74 fans at 800 idle and 1800 load. And this is at 23.3 c or 74 degrees. With my hardware I would expect more. Had same temps with a slim 360 and 240 rad.
    
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post #92617 of 107275
Quote:
Originally Posted by Questors View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Stay far away from the ET male male rotaries Werm. I have one and it corroded. It may have been a factory defect in the finish. But I wasn't overly impressed by it.

Of course that could've been my fault for leaving my loop together after draining too. But I had other ET rotaries in my loop (45s) and not a single one of those corroded. So yeah I hafta say it was the quality and not user mistake that led to the corrosion.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Slight hint of rust between the barrels... :rolleys:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Rust is surprising to me. I used those very fittings in my first ever water cooled build without issue. At the time of purchase, I was informed the EnzoTech fittings were made from brass. If that holds true and you had rust in a fitting, you may want to look elsewhere for the rust producer.

I only have one place that could produce rust and that was from the MB block's access plate. I don't know if it's steel or not. But in any case, the whole loop is down for the case mod I'm doing and there is no other part that shows any rust activity. Just that one.

I thought of that the moment I saw rust on the part. It's not a very big spot. Probably about the size of a pinhead. Maybe I got a knockoff or something. Dunno. Just know that I'm not that impressed by it. thinking.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #92618 of 107275
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

I only have one place that could produce rust and that was from the MB block's access plate. I don't know if it's steel or not. But in any case, the whole loop is down for the case mod I'm doing and there is no other part that shows any rust activity. Just that one.

I thought of that the moment I saw rust on the part. It's not a very big spot. Probably about the size of a pinhead. Maybe I got a knockoff or something. Dunno. Just know that I'm not that impressed by it. thinking.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

As well as you shouldn't be.

TCO
     
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post #92619 of 107275
Quote:
Originally Posted by emsj86 View Post

See that's my point if frustration right there my hottest core on occt is 74 fans at 800 idle and 1800 load. And this is at 23.3 c or 74 degrees. With my hardware I would expect more. Had same temps with a slim 360 and 240 rad.

Your problem isn't the cooling capacity of the loop, it's getting the heat out of the cpu. Intel mainstream cpu chips are so tiny these days that intel doesn't solder them to the heatspreader and they are very hard to get the heat out of.

Try googling to see how small the chip actually is, then realise half of it is the intel gpu and the other half includes the memory controller and the pcie controller for the gpu slots.. the actual cores are tiny and hard to cool.
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post #92620 of 107275
Could be just a delid candidate CPU and not cooling capacity limitation nor architecture's fault.
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