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post #94631 of 106079
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilchronic View Post

So you added the other pump and temps are still high?
I've added the pump, but I haven't finished the loop. All I did was take out the tubing, and just install the pump. I still need to route the tubing before I can fill it. I'm going to test temps later next week. I'm too busy with school this week and next, so hopefully Wednesday or Thursday I can finish the tubing.
    
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post #94632 of 106079
I received my Nemesis 360 GTXs today. So excite.
post #94633 of 106079
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteezyTN View Post

I've added the pump, but I haven't finished the loop. All I did was take out the tubing, and just install the pump. I still need to route the tubing before I can fill it. I'm going to test temps later next week. I'm too busy with school this week and next, so hopefully Wednesday or Thursday I can finish the tubing.
Nice, Looking forward too seeing how that works out for ya. I'm sure that was probably the problem, you have so much rad space and i guess that comes with a lot of restriction. redface.gif
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post #94634 of 106079
I'm trying to hook up my dual ek pump setup but there is zero pressure even with just the pump. Does the pwm need to be in? I thought that it ran at 60% with no pwm signal.
post #94635 of 106079
Hello guys

This is my new case Corsair 780T and im getting ready for water cooling. i already have almost every detail just w8ing for Radiators

I think to Buy RX360MM 2x radiators because of size . that size is fine for my case. can some one offer me better radiators in the same size plz?
post #94636 of 106079
Hi guys, need some help here...

Im currently using mcp35x + xspc ddc acrylic res... the problem is the rotor of the pump stuck for a while after switched on..

But the rotor will rotate smoothly after a few minutes, in which pretty much disturbing for me..

Is the pump shows dead sign in this case? since i didnt shut down my pc for a few days to prevent the same issue happening again.

I did checked on other forum regarding this issue, some them stated that some bubbles in the loop (unseen) might cause the pressure of the flow to be unstable, thus preventing the rotor from rotates during initiation stage...

Kindly help me on this. Thanks..
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post #94637 of 106079
Still a while to go:




Case about 95% assembled after painting:



To do list:

Put loop back

Wiring

Leak test

Game
post #94638 of 106079
Quote:
Originally Posted by gree View Post


Some reses come set up for it.

Can you explain where u taped a strip to? Inside the res?

I suppouse if ur strip is waterproof its okay.

Not inside, it's taped to the back of the reservoir, with the fabric tape used to eliminate all leakage. I wish I'd tried it prior to switching to an opaque dye.
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post #94639 of 106079
Quote:
Originally Posted by jodybdesigns View Post


They make LED plugs. I love the blue in mine. Really nice glow.


I actually spotted these today when choosing new led's for my cards - but I wonder if it would be bright enough for a pastel dye?

Looks great with yours 👍🏼
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post #94640 of 106079
I do also have led lights in mine smile.gif

My original XSPC 5mm leds died. Replaced them with 3mm white leds, 12V and 230 ohm resistor /per led, my led diodes keep dying... They work for a bit, then start binking/flashing and then dies.

This is only one side though, got the same on the other side*




And yes, the build ins't done because my Asrock X99 Itx motherboard died by itself lol and Asrock service is the slowest one I ever met tongue.gif
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