Originally Posted by ruffhi IT_Diva ... sent you an PM about acrylic a few days ago ... not sure you saw it.
I think I lost track of PMs lately, will go back and have a look,
sorry, been a killer few weeks at work.
I sent you a reply, and as I thought about it while writing, I thought it could be useful to others, and worth throwing out for everyone's review and feedback, so here it is: (with a few additional thoughts added)
"I'm wanting to do an S5 build myself, was hoping to take advantage of the ordering window for a white one this month, but alas, the Mustang needed some new tires, so it looks like I'll wait until August and get a two tone, since that may be the last opportunity.
I've been contemplating what to do about the power / reset button cabling myself, as it looks really terrible the way it is stock.
It's easy enough to replace the power button with a tiny remote control setup with a little keyfob button and receiver modded to run off the PSU's 5V standby power located in the lower area of the case, or even underneath where there's no risk of metal shielding the receiver antenna.
You really don't need a reset button anyway. . . . so that's not an issue.
The bigger issue is what to do with the USB 3 cables, as they normally are part of that same "power-reset" switch module, and are a lot stiffer and much harder to find a way to minimize their visibility.
I really do not want to give up having the USB ports on the front though.
I thought about ordering the power-reset / USB panel that the S8 uses, which mounts low to the bottom of the front panel so that no cabling shows in the upper area to see if that could be an option.
But keep in mind that that would require cutting a very precise cutout in the front trim panel, and having to paint match.
I also then thought about using a 5.25" to 3.5" bay adapter and putting the regular S5 front panel control bits horizontally in the bottom flex bay.
Either way, I'd enlarge the front panel cutout where the module normally goes and create a window there, like the front window option on the S8.
Again, it needs precise cutouts and some paint matching, but has a great aesthetic.
I guess for a super simple option, you could just use the blanking plate that would normally be there if you deselected the normal power-reset switch option, if you didn't mind the look or weren't up to the DIY window mod.
I mention all this as to convey that trying to fabricate an acrylic compartment behind the switches isn't even on my mental list of options.
For it to work, you'd almost certainly have to have an acrylic midplate, which I pretty routinely add, so you have something for it to blend in with and seem a part of.
Even then, it's a crap ton of work, and to me, at least, the most aesthetically least appealing option.
I guess if you don't need the USB, (or hacked at the plastic molding around them so they could bend much more sharply) and soldered the wires on the power and reset switches a a 90* angle so they point straight down, . . . .
The easiest thing would be to use a Bitspower res tube with a slot, about 3/4" to 1" wide, cut down the upper front and put it right up against the front panel where the switches are so the "fake res" becomes a cable management tube. Use one long enough to be able to run all the cabling from the top of the front panel to the lower chamber.
The advantage to using a res tube is that you can use a stock end cap that can be screwed to the raised side of the case below the switches and then use a small holesaw to make a big enough hole in the end cap and chassis to pass all the cabling thru.
That way you can run all the fan controller cabling from the flex bays along the top above the flex bays to the open top of the tube so everything can be pretty well hidden by the fake res.
You could put a colored stage light gel or something similar inside the tube so you couldn't see the cabling in it, . . it would just look like a second res with colored fiquid.
So far as sourcing acrylic, if you still decide to go with the acrylic compartment plan, . . . since you're in a major city, you should have plenty of retailers who could show you different options and have a selection of tools and adhesives available.
Once you get some experience and know what's what, you can go with the convenience of ordering online, but seeing the options in person helps you make a better choice the first time around.
Think about some of the ideas I put out to you . . . and when you decide on which path you want to follow, let me know and I'll do my best to be of help."
Here's a couple pics of how I did the cable management on my S8 build, fortunately, it doesn't have the same switch setup the S5 does, but if you relocate the switches/USB on the S5, this would work nicely for the top rad fans and lighting.Edited by IT Diva - 6/25/16 at 7:37am