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post #98941 of 107103
Kitguru reviewed smaller case and quality was not the issue.
post #98942 of 107103
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopper1591 View Post

Yo all

Looks like the Primo will take a while before being back in stock.

I am tempted to change plans and get a Core x9 instead.

Ideas?
The case looks nice but I am scaptic about build quality... being TT and all tongue.gif



With the X9, you get what you pay for, just like with a Primo, or any other flagship case, you get what you pay for.

That pretty much tells you what you're going to be getting with the X9.

OTOH, it's cheap enough that you can build in it now, and upgrade to the Primo when it's available, and not feel like you wasted money.


As far as putting any credence in reviews or YouTube reviewers, consider that as soon as they start giving honest reviews of truly lame or mediocre products, they aren't going to get more products from that manufacturer to review.

So no matter how big a POS something is, the review is going to try to convince you otherwise.

When you want the real skinny, ask on the forums, and ask the people who have that product AS WELL AS higher end products to make a comparison to.

The guy with a POS and nothing better to compare it to, has no way of knowing what a POS it really is.



D.
Edited by IT Diva - 6/25/16 at 5:43am
post #98943 of 107103
IT_Diva ... sent you an PM about acrylic a few days ago ... not sure you saw it.
post #98944 of 107103
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post

IT_Diva ... sent you an PM about acrylic a few days ago ... not sure you saw it.


I think I lost track of PMs lately, will go back and have a look,

sorry, been a killer few weeks at work.

Darlene


I sent you a reply, and as I thought about it while writing, I thought it could be useful to others, and worth throwing out for everyone's review and feedback, so here it is: (with a few additional thoughts added)

"I'm wanting to do an S5 build myself, was hoping to take advantage of the ordering window for a white one this month, but alas, the Mustang needed some new tires, so it looks like I'll wait until August and get a two tone, since that may be the last opportunity.

I've been contemplating what to do about the power / reset button cabling myself, as it looks really terrible the way it is stock.

It's easy enough to replace the power button with a tiny remote control setup with a little keyfob button and receiver modded to run off the PSU's 5V standby power located in the lower area of the case, or even underneath where there's no risk of metal shielding the receiver antenna.

You really don't need a reset button anyway. . . . so that's not an issue.

The bigger issue is what to do with the USB 3 cables, as they normally are part of that same "power-reset" switch module, and are a lot stiffer and much harder to find a way to minimize their visibility.

I really do not want to give up having the USB ports on the front though.


I thought about ordering the power-reset / USB panel that the S8 uses, which mounts low to the bottom of the front panel so that no cabling shows in the upper area to see if that could be an option.

But keep in mind that that would require cutting a very precise cutout in the front trim panel, and having to paint match.

I also then thought about using a 5.25" to 3.5" bay adapter and putting the regular S5 front panel control bits horizontally in the bottom flex bay.

Either way, I'd enlarge the front panel cutout where the module normally goes and create a window there, like the front window option on the S8.

Again, it needs precise cutouts and some paint matching, but has a great aesthetic.

I guess for a super simple option, you could just use the blanking plate that would normally be there if you deselected the normal power-reset switch option, if you didn't mind the look or weren't up to the DIY window mod.


I mention all this as to convey that trying to fabricate an acrylic compartment behind the switches isn't even on my mental list of options.

For it to work, you'd almost certainly have to have an acrylic midplate, which I pretty routinely add, so you have something for it to blend in with and seem a part of.

Even then, it's a crap ton of work, and to me, at least, the most aesthetically least appealing option.

I guess if you don't need the USB, (or hacked at the plastic molding around them so they could bend much more sharply) and soldered the wires on the power and reset switches a a 90* angle so they point straight down, . . . .

The easiest thing would be to use a Bitspower res tube with a slot, about 3/4" to 1" wide, cut down the upper front and put it right up against the front panel where the switches are so the "fake res" becomes a cable management tube. Use one long enough to be able to run all the cabling from the top of the front panel to the lower chamber.

The advantage to using a res tube is that you can use a stock end cap that can be screwed to the raised side of the case below the switches and then use a small holesaw to make a big enough hole in the end cap and chassis to pass all the cabling thru.

That way you can run all the fan controller cabling from the flex bays along the top above the flex bays to the open top of the tube so everything can be pretty well hidden by the fake res.

You could put a colored stage light gel or something similar inside the tube so you couldn't see the cabling in it, . . it would just look like a second res with colored fiquid.


So far as sourcing acrylic, if you still decide to go with the acrylic compartment plan, . . . since you're in a major city, you should have plenty of retailers who could show you different options and have a selection of tools and adhesives available.

Once you get some experience and know what's what, you can go with the convenience of ordering online, but seeing the options in person helps you make a better choice the first time around.

Think about some of the ideas I put out to you . . . and when you decide on which path you want to follow, let me know and I'll do my best to be of help."



Here's a couple pics of how I did the cable management on my S8 build, fortunately, it doesn't have the same switch setup the S5 does, but if you relocate the switches/USB on the S5, this would work nicely for the top rad fans and lighting.






Edited by IT Diva - 6/25/16 at 7:37am
post #98945 of 107103
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I think I lost track of PMs lately, will go back and have a look,

sorry, been a killer few weeks at work.

Darlene


I sent you a reply, and as I thought about it while writing, I thought it could be useful to others, and worth throwing out for everyone's review and feedback, so here it is: (with a few additional thoughts added)

"I'm wanting to do an S5 build myself, was hoping to take advantage of the ordering window for a white one this month, but alas, the Mustang needed some new tires, so it looks like I'll wait until August and get a two tone, since that may be the last opportunity.

I've been contemplating what to do about the power / reset button cabling myself, as it looks really terrible the way it is stock.

It's easy enough to replace the power button with a tiny remote control setup with a little keyfob button and receiver modded to run off the PSU's 5V standby power located in the lower area of the case, or even underneath where there's no risk of metal shielding the receiver antenna.

You really don't need a reset button anyway. . . . so that's not an issue.

The bigger issue is what to do with the USB 3 cables, as they normally are part of that same "power-reset" switch module, and are a lot stiffer and much harder to find a way to minimize their visibility.

I really do not want to give up having the USB ports on the front though.


I thought about ordering the power-reset / USB panel that the S8 uses, which mounts low to the bottom of the front panel so that no cabling shows in the upper area to see if that could be an option.

But keep in mind that that would require cutting a very precise cutout in the front trim panel, and having to paint match.

I also then thought about using a 5.25" to 3.5" bay adapter and putting the regular S5 front panel control bits horizontally in the bottom flex bay.

Either way, I'd enlarge the front panel cutout where the module normally goes and create a window there, like the front window option on the S8.

Again, it needs precise cutouts and some paint matching, but has a great aesthetic.

I guess for a super simple option, you could just use the blanking plate that would normally be there if you deselected the normal power-reset switch option, if you didn't mind the look or weren't up to the DIY window mod.


I mention all this as to convey that trying to fabricate an acrylic compartment behind the switches isn't even on my mental list of options.

For it to work, you'd almost certainly have to have an acrylic midplate, which I pretty routinely add, so you have something for it to blend in with and seem a part of.

Even then, it's a crap ton of work, and to me, at least, the most aesthetically least appealing option.

I guess if you don't need the USB, (or hacked at the plastic molding around them so they could bend much more sharply) and soldered the wires on the power and reset switches a a 90* angle so they point straight down, . . . .

The easiest thing would be to use a Bitspower res tube with a slot, about 3/4" to 1" wide, cut down the upper front and put it right up against the front panel where the switches are so the "fake res" becomes a cable management tube. Use one long enough to be able to run all the cabling from the top of the front panel to the lower chamber.

The advantage to using a res tube is that you can use a stock end cap that can be screwed to the raised side of the case below the switches and then use a small holesaw to make a big enough hole in the end cap and chassis to pass all the cabling thru.

That way you can run all the fan controller cabling from the flex bays along the top above the flex bays to the open top of the tube so everything can be pretty well hidden by the fake res.

You could put a colored stage light gel or something similar inside the tube so you couldn't see the cabling in it, . . it would just look like a second res with colored fiquid.
So far as sourcing acrylic, if you still decide to go with the acrylic compartment plan, . . . since you're in a major city, you should have plenty of retailers who could show you different options and have a selection of tools and adhesives available.

Once you get some experience and know what's what, you can go with the convenience of ordering online, but seeing the options in person helps you make a better choice the first time around.

Think about some of the ideas I put out to you . . . and when you decide on which path you want to follow, let me know and I'll do my best to be of help."



Here's a couple pics of how I did the cable management on my S8 build, fortunately, it doesn't have the same switch setup the S5 does, but if you relocate the switches/USB on the S5, this would work nicely for the top rad fans and lighting. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)






Akira helped me get mine made by a really nice guy from Canada Gdesmo is his user name. This is the one he made for me. Akira has one in his S5 build log too.



post #98946 of 107103
Looks awesome!, wd.
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post #98947 of 107103
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newtocooling View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I think I lost track of PMs lately, will go back and have a look,

sorry, been a killer few weeks at work.

Darlene


I sent you a reply, and as I thought about it while writing, I thought it could be useful to others, and worth throwing out for everyone's review and feedback, so here it is: (with a few additional thoughts added)

"I'm wanting to do an S5 build myself, was hoping to take advantage of the ordering window for a white one this month, but alas, the Mustang needed some new tires, so it looks like I'll wait until August and get a two tone, since that may be the last opportunity.

I've been contemplating what to do about the power / reset button cabling myself, as it looks really terrible the way it is stock.

It's easy enough to replace the power button with a tiny remote control setup with a little keyfob button and receiver modded to run off the PSU's 5V standby power located in the lower area of the case, or even underneath where there's no risk of metal shielding the receiver antenna.

You really don't need a reset button anyway. . . . so that's not an issue.

The bigger issue is what to do with the USB 3 cables, as they normally are part of that same "power-reset" switch module, and are a lot stiffer and much harder to find a way to minimize their visibility.

I really do not want to give up having the USB ports on the front though.


I thought about ordering the power-reset / USB panel that the S8 uses, which mounts low to the bottom of the front panel so that no cabling shows in the upper area to see if that could be an option.

But keep in mind that that would require cutting a very precise cutout in the front trim panel, and having to paint match.

I also then thought about using a 5.25" to 3.5" bay adapter and putting the regular S5 front panel control bits horizontally in the bottom flex bay.

Either way, I'd enlarge the front panel cutout where the module normally goes and create a window there, like the front window option on the S8.

Again, it needs precise cutouts and some paint matching, but has a great aesthetic.

I guess for a super simple option, you could just use the blanking plate that would normally be there if you deselected the normal power-reset switch option, if you didn't mind the look or weren't up to the DIY window mod.


I mention all this as to convey that trying to fabricate an acrylic compartment behind the switches isn't even on my mental list of options.

For it to work, you'd almost certainly have to have an acrylic midplate, which I pretty routinely add, so you have something for it to blend in with and seem a part of.

Even then, it's a crap ton of work, and to me, at least, the most aesthetically least appealing option.

I guess if you don't need the USB, (or hacked at the plastic molding around them so they could bend much more sharply) and soldered the wires on the power and reset switches a a 90* angle so they point straight down, . . . .

The easiest thing would be to use a Bitspower res tube with a slot, about 3/4" to 1" wide, cut down the upper front and put it right up against the front panel where the switches are so the "fake res" becomes a cable management tube. Use one long enough to be able to run all the cabling from the top of the front panel to the lower chamber.

The advantage to using a res tube is that you can use a stock end cap that can be screwed to the raised side of the case below the switches and then use a small holesaw to make a big enough hole in the end cap and chassis to pass all the cabling thru.

That way you can run all the fan controller cabling from the flex bays along the top above the flex bays to the open top of the tube so everything can be pretty well hidden by the fake res.

You could put a colored stage light gel or something similar inside the tube so you couldn't see the cabling in it, . . it would just look like a second res with colored fiquid.
So far as sourcing acrylic, if you still decide to go with the acrylic compartment plan, . . . since you're in a major city, you should have plenty of retailers who could show you different options and have a selection of tools and adhesives available.

Once you get some experience and know what's what, you can go with the convenience of ordering online, but seeing the options in person helps you make a better choice the first time around.

Think about some of the ideas I put out to you . . . and when you decide on which path you want to follow, let me know and I'll do my best to be of help."



Here's a couple pics of how I did the cable management on my S8 build, fortunately, it doesn't have the same switch setup the S5 does, but if you relocate the switches/USB on the S5, this would work nicely for the top rad fans and lighting. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)






Akira helped me get mine made by a really nice guy from Canada Gdesmo is his user name. This is the one he made for me. Akira has one in his S5 build log too.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Are you able to scrunch the USB cables enough to fit them in too . . . with a box that wide, it looks like you could . .

Can you post a front view and right side view as well, please.

D.
post #98948 of 107103
Darlene,

I read (and re-read) your PM and thought ... this discussion should be it's own post. Then I saw that you posted it in the water cooling club thread. Ok ... close enough.

Should we pull it out to its own discussion? I bet lots of others have run into the same issues.


S5 Power Switches (et al).

I decided that I can do without the USB at the front. I posted about what I am planning to do a few days ago ...
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post

Speaking of front ports with no i/o ... I ended up going with this ... UNITEK 3 Ports USB 3.0 Hub with Multi-In-1 Card Reader.

Three USB ports and card reader too. The only thing that I will really miss with out a front i/o is the ability to jack in with headphones. I can overcome this by a) running an extension from the back or b) using my USB headphones.


unitek-3-ports-usb-3-0-hub-with-multi-in-1-card-reader-with-5v-2a-adapter-and-2aac255fe7c9d6f42a0c0a7e2318a38e.jpg

Edit: It has a (really bright!) blue LED that I had to cover with some left over radiator gasket. Who gave me that idea?

So ... that takes care of the thick USB cables.

I don't want to cut into the outside shell of my computer ... my technique isn't strong enough to allow me to do that. So ... that leaves me with native S5 equipment.

I could ditch the reset ... can't you get exactly the same result by pressing and holding the power button?

Then I could relocate the power button. Either into a solid single flex bay cover or into one of the tube holes in the back. My PC is on 24/7 so it isn't as if I need the power button really handy.


Cable Management Compartment

I noted the goldfinger solution ... that could work. Newtocooling, do you have a pic with the side window on so that we can see how much is showing?

Re midplate ... I will be putting a mid plate in my S5 that will look very similar to a continuation of the motherboard tray. So ... there will be something there for the compartment to 'sit' on.


Flex Bay Contents

I think you also need to think about what is in your flex bay. There are 7 and I am planning to have ...

top - single hot sway bay for HDD
2nd - blank or ODD
3rd - fan
4th - fan
5th - fan
6th - ODD or blank
7th - future location for Aquaero

My swap bay HDD is for my back up drive and I want to make sure there is some air flow around it ... I don't like cooked HDDs.

So ... at most, I will have 2 x SATA power and 2 x SATA data cables. There are NO fans in the top of my build ... so very little cable management / routing required.
post #98949 of 107103
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Are you able to scrunch the USB cables enough to fit them in too . . . with a box that wide, it looks like you could . .

Can you post a front view and right side view as well, please.

D.

I'm sorry D I didn't get USB on my front panel this time, but if I remember correctly the power and reset cables where a little tight.......so USB 3 might be tough. I really wanted to mount my pump and res on that shelf though so that also limited the depth of the acrylic box for me. If you"re mounting the pump and res in the floor on the PSU side, or on the front rad, you can just make the box slightly deeper.





Here are some right and front side views. I don't think they'll help though.

D you can also check @Akira749 Alexstrasza’s Shrine build log as well. I got my acrylic measurements from Akira for mine. I really lucked out on the measurements to be honest. It was only my second build, and I had my heart set on mounting my pump and res on the shelf in display of the window, and if the box had been any deeper I would of been out of room! rolleyes.gif
post #98950 of 107103
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by prznar1 View Post

From what i know, single ddc would push it no problem. But d5 have much less head pressure so i would use two on your place.

Not required,a single d5 will still power thru what he has specced.

Pump requirements are massively overrated.

As for Tt stuff...purchase ethically,don't give lame companies your money. Wait for the Primo or source it elsewhere
Edited by B NEGATIVE - 6/25/16 at 8:42am
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MILSPEC II
(8 items)
 
| LUMO |
(6 items)
 
CLoS3 IMPACT
(8 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
5820k X99m WS 980ti strix 980ti strix 
RAMHard DrivePowerCase
KLEVV Cras DDR4  3tb Red Corsair 600w SFX + 450w SFX Caselabs BH4 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4970k Z97 Gryphon GTX 680 x2 Crucial Ballistix Elite 16Gb 
PowerCase
Be Quiet Dark Power 850 InWin D Frame Mini 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4770k ASUS Impact ITX R9 290 Gskill Trident 2400 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCase
Samsung EV0 250 x2 WD black Loop.....oh yes...... Caselabs S3....modded 
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