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post #99131 of 107295
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Bitspower is more expensive because Vincent needs a new yacht.

Ha that is a good one. And believable to tongue.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

thumb.gif

S/O valve or "shutoff valve" or "ball valve" keeps things from getting messy when you drain. BPs are rather spendy but they look sharp and don't feel cheap either. I rather like mine. It cost me to get only 2 fittings when I ordered it from PPCs, but it was what I could afford to do when I pulled the trigger on it with my Dominator block. PPCs' likes bleeding my budget dry with their shipping costs. At least it takes a whack at how much I have left to purchase for my build. MMRS Res, Darkside LED strips, Three 360 PEs(maybe two with an SE) nine Darkside GTs, more Hardline and making yet another change to my fittings. Likely to be getting the new Monsoon Economy Hardline fittings. So out with the old and unused and in with the new. I swear this build changes fittings more than a stripper changes her costume. rolleyes.gifbiggrin.gif

Reason for expense is simple, the more difficult it is for a vendor to procure hardware the more they pass it on to us. Then of course you're paying for name brand recognition with BP. Think of them as the Nike Air Jordans of the water cooling world. wink.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Oh ofcourse. Will be using a valve. Just a cheap 7 euro one.

So you say I should be good with the cheaper PETG? As rigid tubing is logo free after all...

I am however going to buy BP fittings as I like the looks and they are good quality.
    
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post #99132 of 107295
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopper1591 View Post

Ha that is a good one. And believable to tongue.gif
Oh ofcourse. Will be using a valve. Just a cheap 7 euro one.

So you say I should be good with the cheaper PETG? As rigid tubing is logo free after all...

I am however going to buy BP fittings as I like the looks and they are good quality.
I used xspc's and BP's PETG for my build since they were low on xspc's cheaper stock. I couldn't tell any difference and neither could my calipers or fittings thumb.gif
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post #99133 of 107295
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopper1591 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Bitspower is more expensive because Vincent needs a new yacht.

Ha that is a good one. And believable to tongue.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

thumb.gif

S/O valve or "shutoff valve" or "ball valve" keeps things from getting messy when you drain. BPs are rather spendy but they look sharp and don't feel cheap either. I rather like mine. It cost me to get only 2 fittings when I ordered it from PPCs, but it was what I could afford to do when I pulled the trigger on it with my Dominator block. PPCs' likes bleeding my budget dry with their shipping costs. At least it takes a whack at how much I have left to purchase for my build. MMRS Res, Darkside LED strips, Three 360 PEs(maybe two with an SE) nine Darkside GTs, more Hardline and making yet another change to my fittings. Likely to be getting the new Monsoon Economy Hardline fittings. So out with the old and unused and in with the new. I swear this build changes fittings more than a stripper changes her costume. rolleyes.gifbiggrin.gif

Reason for expense is simple, the more difficult it is for a vendor to procure hardware the more they pass it on to us. Then of course you're paying for name brand recognition with BP. Think of them as the Nike Air Jordans of the water cooling world. wink.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Oh ofcourse. Will be using a valve. Just a cheap 7 euro one.

So you say I should be good with the cheaper PETG? As rigid tubing is logo free after all...

I am however going to buy BP fittings as I like the looks and they are good quality.

You should. So long as your fitting ID matches the tubing OD.

Companies like Monsoon, use SAE specs. Whereas EK and BP use Metric. thumb.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #99134 of 107295
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post #99135 of 107295
Yup! thumb.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #99136 of 107295
1. Anyone know the thickest radiator I can fit in the Corsair Air 240 with a MSI 1080 X Gaming? Would Hardware Labs SR2 GTX 240 fit?
2. Is EK the only who has waterblock for MSI GTX 1080 X Gaming? I was hoping for a block that would cover the entire GPU.
post #99137 of 107295
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopper1591 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Artah View Post

I'm having a hard time finding a good spot for a 2nd pump. Two gpu blocks are in parallel and then the two sets are in series. How about two D5 pumps setup in parallel mode? I've never done that and wonder if they would fight each other too much if I did if it even makes sense. My rig is all over the place at the moment in the kitchen lol.

No experience myself but parallel pumping seems like a no-go.

My stuff usually expands past one room. lachen.gif


Edit:
Just made a few more drawings. It's hard to plan rigid tubing IMO.
I have no clue what would look better.... and don't want to spend a lot on tubing to try them all. biggrin.gif

4 ideas:





I kinda like the straight tubing on the third layout.
Might also do those straights with the pump next to the lower rad.

What do you guys think?


thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopper1591 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Artah View Post

I'm having a hard time finding a good spot for a 2nd pump. Two gpu blocks are in parallel and then the two sets are in series. How about two D5 pumps setup in parallel mode? I've never done that and wonder if they would fight each other too much if I did if it even makes sense. My rig is all over the place at the moment in the kitchen lol.

No experience myself but parallel pumping seems like a no-go.

My stuff usually expands past one room. lachen.gif


Edit:
Just made a few more drawings. It's hard to plan rigid tubing IMO.
I have no clue what would look better.... and don't want to spend a lot on tubing to try them all. biggrin.gif

4 ideas:





I kinda like the straight tubing on the third layout.
Might also do those straights with the pump next to the lower rad.

What do you guys think?


thumb.gif

What about something like this?



You could use soft tubing in the hidden areas to make it easier. A minimalist tubing loop.
 
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post #99138 of 107295
I need a little advice and a little input deciding on my lighting with the Mayhems coolant I'm going to use in my new build. Overall, my build is blue and white. I'm setting up 2 loops and all acrylic tubing (one loop I was thinking of using UV blue/clear coolant and the other loop using UV White coolant). I was thinking about lighting everything with UV lighting. I bought some of the Monsoon LED stop fittings and was going to add UV LEDs where I could to shine into the tubing. Both of my GPUs both have acrylic waterblocks with room for 2 3mm LEDs on each one. I bought some of the Darkside UV strips to help with the overall lighting, but I'd like to find some bright individual LEDs to light up the GPUs so the coolant can be seen running through. If anyone knows of the brightness individual UV LEDs, please let me know.

Another thought I had was to use white LED lighting everywhere with blue and white pastel colored coolant in each loop, but I'm not sure how much light would penetrate the pastel coolant, especially with the LED stop fittings, so they might not even be necessary. I could use white LEDs to light specific places in my case, and in the GPU waterblocks and my acrylic pump top so thee pastel coolant can be seen better. Also, all of my fans either have blue LEDs or white LEDs, but I've set them up with a switch so I can turn all the fan LEDs off while the fan continues to run.

I'm really on the fence about this. I've looked through numerous builds but still can't decide what to do. Hopefully, someone who's worked with builds with these types of lighting can chime in since I'm at a stopping point until I make a decision. This may seem anal, but after putting in a as many hours on this build that I have, I want everything to be perfect
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post #99139 of 107295
Quote:
Originally Posted by rolldog View Post

I need a little advice and a little input deciding on my lighting with the Mayhems coolant I'm going to use in my new build. Overall, my build is blue and white. I'm setting up 2 loops and all acrylic tubing (one loop I was thinking of using UV blue/clear coolant and the other loop using UV White coolant). I was thinking about lighting everything with UV lighting. I bought some of the Monsoon LED stop fittings and was going to add UV LEDs where I could to shine into the tubing. Both of my GPUs both have acrylic waterblocks with room for 2 3mm LEDs on each one. I bought some of the Darkside UV strips to help with the overall lighting, but I'd like to find some bright individual LEDs to light up the GPUs so the coolant can be seen running through. If anyone knows of the brightness individual UV LEDs, please let me know.

Another thought I had was to use white LED lighting everywhere with blue and white pastel colored coolant in each loop, but I'm not sure how much light would penetrate the pastel coolant, especially with the LED stop fittings, so they might not even be necessary. I could use white LEDs to light specific places in my case, and in the GPU waterblocks and my acrylic pump top so thee pastel coolant can be seen better. Also, all of my fans either have blue LEDs or white LEDs, but I've set them up with a switch so I can turn all the fan LEDs off while the fan continues to run.

I'm really on the fence about this. I've looked through numerous builds but still can't decide what to do. Hopefully, someone who's worked with builds with these types of lighting can chime in since I'm at a stopping point until I make a decision. This may seem anal, but after putting in a as many hours on this build that I have, I want everything to be perfect

I think you will be the happiest with pastel and white lighting. The UV looks amazing, but can be a pain to get right. The UV effect will also fade over time and you'll need to add more UV dye to the loop. Any other light will also kill the effect, so unless you're in a dark room or have your system hidden under a desk you just won't get that amazing UV look. My green lantern rig is UV but I'm never sitting here in the dark so that's kind of lost, still looks great in daylight though thumb.gif

I doubt you would be able to see any light through the pastel though, so you would want to have more of a spotlight on certain areas and skip the LED fittings. The LED holes in blocks usually work well as spotlights, just have to get bright LEDs.
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post #99140 of 107295
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deedaz View Post

I think you will be the happiest with pastel and white lighting. The UV looks amazing, but can be a pain to get right. The UV effect will also fade over time and you'll need to add more UV dye to the loop. Any other light will also kill the effect, so unless you're in a dark room or have your system hidden under a desk you just won't get that amazing UV look. My green lantern rig is UV but I'm never sitting here in the dark so that's kind of lost, still looks great in daylight though thumb.gif

I doubt you would be able to see any light through the pastel though, so you would want to have more of a spotlight on certain areas and skip the LED fittings. The LED holes in blocks usually work well as spotlights, just have to get bright LEDs.

Yep, that was kinda my thinking as well. Originally going with UV, but the lights must be very bright and the room very dark to get a really good look. I want my rig to be bright and the blues and whites to really stand out. I wonder how long it's been since I bought this Mayhem UV coolant and these UV lights. I've been in Thailand for the last 2 weeks so I might need to file an RMA now and exchange everything when I get back on Wednesday. I thought about finding a place over here that sells Bitspower, but I don't have enough time to go shopping for computer parts.
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