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post #99571 of 107057
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCautiousOne View Post

People sure are passionate about the DDC v D5 discussion huh? applaud.gif



I seemed to have missed the firefight, narrowly.



TCO
You're just too... Cautious.

UNRELATED TO THAT, I'm trying to get an idea of if my radiators would be "good" for this loop. I've already ordered my i7-6950X (140W TDP) CPU. I planned on using two GTX 1080's, but, since the new Titan X is releasing so soon, I might order that. They're suspect to be 250W TDP, so, I'd imagine similar temperatures to a 980 Ti or the original Titan X. Do you guys think that the GPU's at stock clock, with an i7-6950X OC'd to 4.0GHz (maybe 1.3V max if I can't get their on stock voltage) will be fine with an EK SE 360 and EK PE 360, using six Noctua NF-F12's?

I'd like to keep CPU temperatures under 65C at load, and same for the GPU's. I don't think that'll be achievable with the cooling though. Basically 240mm per component.
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post #99572 of 107057
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

Not quite accurate. 1 GPM is good flow and aim for most loops. Adding more flow will not gain you much correct. But you can easily run a loop at 0.5 GPM - 0.7 GPM and not having any "negative effect" since that would be enough for turbulent flow.

So basically what I said is correct then? So long as your pump overcomes the resistance of the blocks and still flows at a reasonable rate (not trickle) then it should work fine? So setting a pump to the lowest setting assuming it actually pumps would be better for pump longevity and get the same results? I am just trying to understand how everything works.
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post #99573 of 107057
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

Not quite accurate. 1 GPM is good flow and aim for most loops. Adding more flow will not gain you much correct. But you can easily run a loop at 0.5 GPM - 0.7 GPM and not having any "negative effect" since that would be enough for turbulent flow.



@eucalyptus search Martinliquidlab and cleaning rad and you will find good info. No need for vinegar or lemon juice. Just hot water shake drain method. Do that until the water coming out of the rad is clean and without debris. Martin method is the one Megaman described. Put the rad on the faucet and let warm water run through it (just be aware of tap house pressure so you don't damage your rad).

And all of this,chapter and verse.

There is no need for acid cleaning,the flux which is the problem, is water-soluble.
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post #99574 of 107057
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

Not quite accurate. 1 GPM is good flow and aim for most loops. Adding more flow will not gain you much correct. But you can easily run a loop at 0.5 GPM - 0.7 GPM and not having any "negative effect" since that would be enough for turbulent flow.



@eucalyptus search Martinliquidlab and cleaning rad and you will find good info. No need for vinegar or lemon juice. Just hot water shake drain method. Do that until the water coming out of the rad is clean and without debris. Martin method is the one Megaman described. Put the rad on the faucet and let warm water run through it (just be aware of tap house pressure so you don't damage your rad).

Ah missed so much of what I said was right at least apart from 0.5gpm-0.7gpm.
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post #99575 of 107057
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

Ah missed so much of what I said was right at least apart from 0.5gpm-0.7gpm.

Yes, most of what you said is correct. But the lower flow part is important because not always you will have the capability of using a single d5 or ddc and get beyond or at 1 GPM figure and this can drive rookies nuts and end up with people expending more money that is not really necessary to run a good healthy loop.
post #99576 of 107057
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trestles126 View Post

A lot of info out there. I used 30 percent vineger in distilled water 2 flushes first one u let sit 5 mins or so. Then I use 30 percent baking soda to distilled water two flushes to neutralize the acidity then 2 flushes with distilled water

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogga View Post

I'll be doing the same shortly with my new 360 and 480 rads... been googling a lot as well. Not comfy with using vinegar as well. I went to Biltema and bought 8L of distilled water, which I intend to boil, fill up half of the rads, shake and empty a couple of times...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

No right or wrong way some may shake some boil water some use straight from tap others distilled only.

As for me i have something made that attaches to a water hose that I put on my hot water heater. Put the other side down a drain flush one side then reverse the flow and flush the other direction.

Some use vinegar others lemon juice others water .
that is pretty awesome

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

@eucalyptus search Martinliquidlab and cleaning rad and you will find good info. No need for vinegar or lemon juice. Just hot water shake drain method. Do that until the water coming out of the rad is clean and without debris. Martin method is the one Megaman described. Put the rad on the faucet and let warm water run through it (just be aware of tap house pressure so you don't damage your rad).


Thanks guys smile.gif Got an idea what to do now biggrin.gif Awesome!

*Also found Martinliquidlab cleaning tutorial smile.gif
post #99577 of 107057
I'm really interested in adding a light box to my new build, especially one like this, which is a light box with built-in waterlines. If my case doesn't have a divider between the top and bottom, how could I rig something up to keep it in place? I'm using a Caselabs case, which has holes around the edges for additional accessory mounting, so do you think there's a way to put a few screws around on each side so it can sit like a shelf? How difficult do you think it would be to cut waterlines into the acrylic without a CNC machine? Would it even be possible? CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95
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post #99578 of 107057
I am sure you could do it with a Dremel
By hand.

But easy is not the word that would come to mind

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmfree88 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

Not quite accurate. 1 GPM is good flow and aim for most loops. Adding more flow will not gain you much correct. But you can easily run a loop at 0.5 GPM - 0.7 GPM and not having any "negative effect" since that would be enough for turbulent flow.

So basically what I said is correct then? So long as your pump overcomes the resistance of the blocks and still flows at a reasonable rate (not trickle) then it should work fine? So setting a pump to the lowest setting assuming it actually pumps would be better for pump longevity and get the same results? I am just trying to understand how everything works.

People need to stop assuming the slower a motor spins the longer the motor lasts. Assuming they are designed properly heat is the biggest obstacles they encounter. Speed plays a very very very minor role if any
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post #99579 of 107057
Quote:
Originally Posted by rolldog View Post

I'm really interested in adding a light box to my new build, especially one like this, which is a light box with built-in waterlines. If my case doesn't have a divider between the top and bottom, how could I rig something up to keep it in place? I'm using a Caselabs case, which has holes around the edges for additional accessory mounting, so do you think there's a way to put a few screws around on each side so it can sit like a shelf? How difficult do you think it would be to cut waterlines into the acrylic without a CNC machine? Would it even be possible? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95

You could add L-brackets of some sort I am sure (less than $1 at home depot). Likely wont be easy to cut the acryllic but a dremmel or a router might do the job.

Post thought:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiETlYskTrY

could just make a actual box or something out of acrylic (sealed better than the one in the video) then turn it into a reservoir of sorts with lights (doesn't necessarily need to function as a reservoir, could just be a pass-through with lights). Can fill in the box with something to make pathways so it looks cool. Then seal down the top and drill for fittings wherever you prefer. Likely be easier to create something out of a box then it would be to try to carve something into a block.
Edited by dmfree88 - 7/23/16 at 5:06pm
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post #99580 of 107057
Sorry double post but just saw Mega Man's post:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

People need to stop assuming the slower a motor spins the longer the motor lasts. Assuming they are designed properly heat is the biggest obstacles they encounter. Speed plays a very very very minor role if any

Most people are going to assume less revolutions = longer lifespan. The same can be said for an car engine, lower rpm = less gas use (depending on resistance) = less rubbing of parts = longer lifespan. It only makes sense that a spinning part would last longer when going slower. Only so many spins before the inner seal or impeller is worn. The same can be said for your observation if heat is the biggest obstacle then obviously a pump that is designed properly should be able to handle higher temperatures. However the amount of spins it is making is still going to increase on higher settings and therefore theoretically should decrease lifespan no matter how good the pump is. Maybe not by much but it has to effect it. I doubt anyone has 10+ pumps to do a un-subjective test but it is only logical that a seal would last longer with less revolutions.

Post thought: That being said I do know that some motors like a non-pwm case fan motor for example actually don't necessarily last longer at lower RPM because they are being supplied less voltage and causing extra heat. I am not sure if that is the case for pumps when they change speeds if it is done the same way it might actually decrease life at lower settings but this is not something I would know. My point though really is nearly everyone is going to assume that lower settings is better for longevity whether it is or it isn't because it just seems to make sense.
Edited by dmfree88 - 7/24/16 at 12:39am
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