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post #99591 of 107103
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

On the question of when to replace pumps...

This for me is a twofold answer.

1)Whenever you like

2)When it dies.

Personally, before I run any pump; It's best to have one on the way or already on the shelf should something(heaven forbid) go wrong. This way you're not sitting on the sideline and grumpy from lack of being connected.

On the issue of heat build up with both, lower RPM equates more heat. Just like fans they require a reasonable amount of power to limit the RPMs. Sorry if I'm not technically savvy regarding specific verbage, but motors are delicate beasts and putting less power to the drive is just as bad as putting a maximum load to it. Somewhere in the middle is probably the best in my mind. I could be wrong and defer to people with more experience than I have, but...

An can we just agree that one has more head pressure and the other has better flow rates? Head pressure being the highest point that water will achieve straight up and Flowrate being how many Gallons/Liters per minute the pump will flow. DDC and D5 in this order. There is nothing at all wrong with DDC pumps and they've actually started pushing into the D5 marketshare. I remember when the flavour of the day was the D5. thumb.gif
~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Explain how lower RPM = More heat? 18w DDC's require a heatsink to be run flat out for extended periods and yet doesnt for low speed? If its voltage controlled,less RPM means less power draw and less rotational friction. How does that equate to more heat?


I couldn't make heads or tails of Ceader's word salad, but you only have to think back to the Aquaero 5 series that even for moderate loads, required water cooling or at the very least, a large passive heatsink with airflow to not overheat at mid speed ranges.

A pump with integrated electronics can be seen similarly . . . at max speeds, the heat is mostly all from the motor, but at mid ranges, while the motor doesn't make more heat, the control electronics can, and since it's all wrapped up in a single package, the exact source of the heat is irrelevant to the overall effect.
post #99592 of 107103
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

I am sure you could do it with a Dremel
By hand.

But easy is not the word that would come to mind
People need to stop assuming the slower a motor spins the longer the motor lasts. Assuming they are designed properly heat is the biggest obstacles they encounter. Speed plays a very very very minor role if any

I was thinking about using a Drexel and a routing bit. He said the channels are 6mm deep, but the hardest part, I think, would be cutting around the channel and trying to find a custom o-ring (I know it's technically not called an o-ring on a waterblock, but it serves the same purpose) and fitting it into the grooves around the channels to prevent leaking. This guy also made a custom acrylic reservoir, which looks great in his case, and steel tubing. That must be difficult to bend. CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95
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post #99593 of 107103
Quote:
Originally Posted by rolldog View Post

I was thinking about using a Drexel and a routing bit. He said the channels are 6mm deep, but the hardest part, I think, would be cutting around the channel and trying to find a custom o-ring (I know it's technically not called an o-ring on a waterblock, but it serves the same purpose) and fitting it into the grooves around the channels to prevent leaking. This guy also made a custom acrylic reservoir, which looks great in his case, and steel tubing. That must be difficult to bend.
could these look any more amazing? I mean really?!? anyways, I dont know that you would want to use an "oring" type seal. I would think that using an acrylic adhesive would be the way to go but I have 0 experience making custom res's so keep that in mind.
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post #99594 of 107103
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmfree88 View Post

You could add L-brackets of some sort I am sure (less than $1 at home depot). Likely wont be easy to cut the acryllic but a dremmel or a router might do the job.

Post thought:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiETlYskTrY

could just make a actual box or something out of acrylic (sealed better than the one in the video) then turn it into a reservoir of sorts with lights (doesn't necessarily need to function as a reservoir, could just be a pass-through with lights). Can fill in the box with something to make pathways so it looks cool. Then seal down the top and drill for fittings wherever you prefer. Likely be easier to create something out of a box then it would be to try to carve something into a block.

Or put some mirror film on piece of acrylic and make an infinity box out of it. I made one to mount both of my 250mm tube reservoirs to the front of (I had spacers between the two pieces of acrylic with screws going through the spacers in the infinity box and bolted t to the back of my chassis divider), but the acrylic box started coming apart, probably because I was using acrylic for the sides of the box too.

If I had room in my case, I think it would look cool to have an infinity box large enough for both reservoirs to fit inside of. When the lights turned on, you would see reservoirs for days.
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post #99595 of 107103
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0ldChicken View Post

could these look any more amazing? I mean really?!? anyways, I dont know that you would want to use an "oring" type seal. I would think that using an acrylic adhesive would be the way to go but I have 0 experience making custom res's so keep that in mind.

When I made my acrylic infinity mirror, which had acrylic on the front, back, and sides, I used some sort of acrylic joint sealer. I forgot what it was called, but it came with a high guage needle which is how the sealant was applied. The sealant was as thin as water, and if you had 2 pieces of acrylic together and applied some to the joint of both pieces of acrylic, the solution would actually work it's way further between the two pieces (even if they were stacked together with zero space between them). The solution was an adhesive, which caused a chemical reaction to blind the pieces together instead of something like glue. Once it dried, it's impossible to separate the pieces without breaking both.
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post #99596 of 107103
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

I couldn't make heads or tails of Ceader's word salad, but you only have to think back to the Aquaero 5 series that even for moderate loads, required water cooling or at the very least, a large passive heatsink with airflow to not overheat at mid speed ranges.

A pump with integrated electronics can be seen similarly . . . at max speeds, the heat is mostly all from the motor, but at mid ranges, while the motor doesn't make more heat, the control electronics can, and since it's all wrapped up in a single package, the exact source of the heat is irrelevant to the overall effect.

The difference is that the Aquaero was doing the voltage regulation,the pump does not,it either runs at moderated input voltage or 12v,the PWM run at 12v constantly. The pump itself does not control voltages supplied and doesnt need to shed the excess.
The Vario...Im not entirely sure how the pot works,whether its voltage regulated or a PWM pot is unknown to me,the heat produced however doesnt change.
Your hypothesis is not reflected in RL use Darlene,you must know this from your DDC experiences? That is the classic example,fast DDC equals hot,slow DDC equals cool. A better case example than the Aquaero tbh.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rolldog View Post

When I made my acrylic infinity mirror, which had acrylic on the front, back, and sides, I used some sort of acrylic joint sealer. I forgot what it was called, but it came with a high guage needle which is how the sealant was applied. The sealant was as thin as water, and if you had 2 pieces of acrylic together and applied some to the joint of both pieces of acrylic, the solution would actually work it's way further between the two pieces (even if they were stacked together with zero space between them). The solution was an adhesive, which caused a chemical reaction to blind the pieces together instead of something like glue. Once it dried, it's impossible to separate the pieces without breaking both.

Solvent welding is my preferred method of res making,I do it a lot,you can see my method here.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-finished-always-a-sad-time-when-its-over/340_20#post_21973601

The technique is welding as the materials are bonded at a molecular level.
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post #99597 of 107103
Here is a youtube vid about 'gluing' acrylic together. I need to make a hidi-hole to cover cables and stuff ... so this is most appropriate timing ... thanks for the discussion.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hT6Ow_cBTps
post #99598 of 107103
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

On the question of when to replace pumps...

This for me is a twofold answer.

1)Whenever you like

2)When it dies.

Personally, before I run any pump; It's best to have one on the way or already on the shelf should something(heaven forbid) go wrong. This way you're not sitting on the sideline and grumpy from lack of being connected.

On the issue of heat build up with both, lower RPM equates more heat. Just like fans they require a reasonable amount of power to limit the RPMs. Sorry if I'm not technically savvy regarding specific verbage, but motors are delicate beasts and putting less power to the drive is just as bad as putting a maximum load to it. Somewhere in the middle is probably the best in my mind. I could be wrong and defer to people with more experience than I have, but...

An can we just agree that one has more head pressure and the other has better flow rates? Head pressure being the highest point that water will achieve straight up and Flowrate being how many Gallons/Liters per minute the pump will flow. DDC and D5 in this order. There is nothing at all wrong with DDC pumps and they've actually started pushing into the D5 marketshare. I remember when the flavour of the day was the D5. thumb.gif
~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Explain how lower RPM = More heat? 18w DDC's require a heatsink to be run flat out for extended periods and yet doesnt for low speed? If its voltage controlled,less RPM means less power draw and less rotational friction. How does that equate to more heat?


I couldn't make heads or tails of Ceader's word salad, but you only have to think back to the Aquaero 5 series that even for moderate loads, required water cooling or at the very least, a large passive heatsink with airflow to not overheat at mid speed ranges.

A pump with integrated electronics can be seen similarly . . . at max speeds, the heat is mostly all from the motor, but at mid ranges, while the motor doesn't make more heat, the control electronics can, and since it's all wrapped up in a single package, the exact source of the heat is irrelevant to the overall effect.

This was my line of thought rightcher. It was late and my brain wasn't cooperating. But yeah. tongue.gif lol

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #99599 of 107103
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

While we are sharing pics again..

The roughing cutouts have been done,now to get the res made for the front and a more form fitting cutout for the GPU terminals/SLI bridge. I will machine that later today I think.....

After that...PAINT TIME!

I love the way I can see a lot of the hardware from 3 sides,so much so that clear coolant maybe the way forward.
I really like that cut out showing the SLI bridge. Looks like it was already meant to be there. You did a damn good job cramming those gigantic GPUs into that case. Looks great too. 👍
post #99600 of 107103
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

The difference is that the Aquaero was doing the voltage regulation,the pump does not,it either runs at moderated input voltage or 12v,the PWM run at 12v constantly. The pump itself does not control voltages supplied and doesnt need to shed the excess.
The Vario...Im not entirely sure how the pot works,whether its voltage regulated or a PWM pot is unknown to me,the heat produced however doesnt change.
Your hypothesis is not reflected in RL use Darlene,you must know this from your DDC experiences? That is the classic example,fast DDC equals hot,slow DDC equals cool. A better case example than the Aquaero tbh.
Solvent welding is my preferred method of res making,I do it a lot,you can see my method here.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-finished-always-a-sad-time-when-its-over/340_20#post_21973601

The technique is welding as the materials are bonded at a molecular level.

Yes, that's the same stuff I was referring to. It bonds at the molecular level, and it's made specifically for acrylic. The syringe comes in handy so you can apply it exactly where you need it. It bonds the acrylic pretty fast, but I think it said to let it cure for 24 hours before working with it, like putting any pressure on it, drilling screw holes with a tap, etc. I never even heard of the stuff until the place where I bought my acrylic sent me a bottle of it with the applicator (the syringe), and they sent me the Novus set for sanding and polishing, which which works very good. I usually wet sand acrylic with a high grit before using the Novus stuff.

I think I'm going to hold off on building the water channels into a piece of acrylic, which is also being used as the top of a light box. I've had so many things come up since starting starting this build, like having to put everything on hold for 6 months or so, I'm just ready to get my new parts installed and get everything running. Once everything is done, I might order some sheets of acrylic to practice making a few toys. This seems much too time consuming to make for this build, however, I will practice and build it into my rig at some point,just not now. How do you think the steel tubing was bent for his loops? It must require some serious heat to put 90 degree bends in it. That'sthr first build I've seen using steel tubing. I guess the whole glass tubing idea faded pretty quickly.
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8 Aerocool Dead Silence 120mm fans 2 Aerocool Dead Silence 140mm fans EK Nvidia 780 Ti Full Waterblock with backplate... EK Nvidia 780 Ti Full Waterblock with backplate... 
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EK-FC Terminal Dual Parallel 3 slot Acetal  EK D5 X-Top Acetal Pump Top CSQ-Laing D5 & Swif... EK Ultimate Performance 480 XTX Series Coolstre... Windows 7 x64 
MonitorMonitorMonitorKeyboard
U28D590D - Samsung UHD 28” Monitor with Metalli... HP 2311x 1920x1080 HP ZR2740w 27-inch LED Backlit IPS Monitor 2560... Corsair Vengeance K70 RGB keyboard 
PowerCaseMouse
Corsair AX1200i Digital ATX  Little Devil PC-V8  Corsair Vengeance M65 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7-6950x Asus x99 deluxe II Gigabyte 980 Ti Gaming G1  Gigabyte 980 Ti Gaming G1 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB 3333Mhz Intel 750 NVMe PCIe SSD  Samsung 950 Pro M.2 SSD  Samsung 850 EVO SSD 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 850 EVO SSD Samsung 840 Pro SSD Samsung 840 Pro SSD WD Black 4TB  
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
LG Blu-ray Burner 3 x Aquacomputer Poweradjust Ultras  Hardware Labs SR2 480mm  Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 360mm radiator Special... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
32 x Enermax T.B. Vegas 120mm fans  4 x SilverStone FQ122 120mm fans 2 x Bitspower Z-Multi 250 reservoirs 2 x Bitspower D5 Acrylic Pump Tops 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
2 x Swiftech MPC655 Pumps 2 x Bitspower Single D5 Pump Upgrade Kit  EK-FB X99 Nickel + Acrylic Monoblock  2 x EK-FC 980 GTX Ti WF3 Nickel + Plexi waterbl... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
2 x Aquacomputer Aquaero 6XT 2 x Aquacomputer Farbwerk Controllers Bitspower Hardline fittings & Bitspower Crystal... Aquacomputer SPLITTY9  
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Aquacomputer HUBBY7  Hardware Labs SR2 480mm  Windows 10 Professional Samsung LU28E590DS/ZA 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Samsung LU28E590DS/ZA  Samsung LU28E590DS/ZA Corsair Vengeance K70 RGB  Corsair AX1200i 
CaseMouseOther
CaseLabs TH10A with reverse conversion and 120m... Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB Darkside CONNECT LEDs  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7-4770K Haswell Quad-Core 3.5Ghz Asus Maximus VI Formula ROG MB EVGA GeForce GTX 780ti Superclocked G.SKILL Trident X Series 16GB (2x8GB) 240 pin D... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB SATA 6Gbps SSD Seagate 2TB Hybrid SATA Hitachi 1TB SATA HDD Asus BC-12B1ST 12X Blu-ray Burner 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK MultiOption Res X3 250 Liquid Cooling Reserv... Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Temperature Sensor ... Koolance-380i Intel Liquid Cooling CPU Block  EK GeForce 780 GTX Ti VGA Liquid Cooling Block ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK D5 X-Top Acetal Pump Top CSQ - Laing D5 & Sw... EK Asus Maximus VI Formula Liquid Cooling Block... EK Ultimate Performance CoolStream 480 XTX Seri... EK Ultimate Performance CoolStream 360 XTX Seri... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8" I... Koolance INS-FM19 Coolant Flow Meter w/ flow me... Cougar 120mm X 25mm CFD Series LED Fan - Green ... Cougar 140mm X 25mm CFD Series LED Fan - Green ... 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate x64 HP ZR2740w 27" LED Backlit IPS Monitor HP 2311x LED Backlit LCD Monitor - 2ea Corsair K70 RGB 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair AX1200i Digital ATX/EPS Modular 80 Plus... Little Devil PC-V8 Black on Green  Corsair M65 Razer Vespula 
AudioOtherOtherOther
Yamaha lamptron cm615  Asus ROG Front Base  Darkside CONNECT RGB Dimmable LED Strips 
Other
Inateck PCI-E USB 3.0 
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