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OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery - Page 9966

post #99651 of 107137
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

The situation is simple,this is the largest thread on OCN and with that comes high traffic,if only 5% ask one question and is answered 4 times for example,you end up with a lot of questions and even more answers....

My gripe is people asking simple questions for which there are already established threads on that specific subject....no need to add yet more to this thread in regards to it. Use the search,its there for a reason.

If people want specifics or ongoing support then they should start a thread covering that topic. Not too much to ask I think.

No, I don't think it is either, yet who is to decide what is a simple question or an intricate question?

TCO
     
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post #99652 of 107137
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCautiousOne View Post

No, I don't think it is either, yet who is to decide what is a simple question or an intricate question?

TCO

Start a thread,easy. If there is no response (unlikely) then post the link to it here.

In an ideal world anyway....
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post #99653 of 107137
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Start a thread,easy. If there is no response (unlikely) then post the link to it here.

In an ideal world anyway....

Is this statement in the OP ? wink.gif

Maybe it could, or should be, yeah?

TCO
     
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post #99654 of 107137
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jon666 View Post

Is the pressure anyone gets from tap really enough to damage a rad?

Yes. Rads can be deformed with as little as 15psi of pressure.

to expand from memory ( which can be incorrect ), you are supposed to get ( iirc in the us- if not then in co ) between 60-90 psi water delivered to your house. that said i have seen far less and more i have seen 128 psi in the past ! - the water you see in a tap ( tap meaning faucet ) ( again in the us ) is usually ~ 5ga/min ( again from memory ) . most everything today is "green" ( i wont make the joke i want to about this ) so you are restricted to less psi, this is NOT the case in taps like most bathtubs ( NOT the shower head that is different ), hoses ( irrigation ) or main line of water
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post #99655 of 107137
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

to expand from memory ( which can be incorrect ), you are supposed to get ( iirc in the us- if not then in co ) between 60-90 psi water delivered to your house. that said i have seen far less and more i have seen 128 psi in the past ! - the water you see in a tap ( tap meaning faucet ) ( again in the us ) is usually ~ 5ga/min ( again from memory ) . most everything today is "green" ( i wont make the joke i want to about this ) so you are restricted to less psi, this is NOT the case in taps like most bathtubs ( NOT the shower head that is different ), hoses ( irrigation ) or main line of water
From what I can find online, Virginia building code (easiest one to find for some reason) requires a hard maximum of 80 PSI for water pressure, and requires a pressure reducing valve for intakes higher than that. So basically, 60-90 PSI sounds like a good estimate for the US.
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post #99656 of 107137
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aquatuning: 419,71€

ebay
Barrow G1/4" Matte Black Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting
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Barrow G1/4" Matte Black 90 Degree Rotary Adapter
5,37€ X8
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Thermaltake Core X9
163,90€
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PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Schlauch 16/10 mm Rot
8,18€ X4
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ebay: 330,34€

aquatuning + ebay: 750,05€

That is my futur build so far. Only destilled water and a silver plug. The tube should fit in the fittings or? Is the list ok?
Edited by Streetdragon - 7/28/16 at 12:08pm
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post #99657 of 107137
I would recommend going with a coolant concentrate instead of the silver plug myself. Another potential issue is that the colored Primochill tubing may have a thicker wall than advertised, and this coupled with the metric to imperial conversion may result in the tubing having a hard time going over the barb end of those Barrow fittings. You can stretch and loosen the tubing to help though.
post #99658 of 107137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geggeg View Post

I would recommend going with a coolant concentrate instead of the silver plug myself. Another potential issue is that the colored Primochill tubing may have a thicker wall than advertised, and this coupled with the metric to imperial conversion may result in the tubing having a hard time going over the barb end of those Barrow fittings. You can stretch and loosen the tubing to help though.

This.

Silver is an outdated bio control measure,modern coolant is pretty good and is recommended instead.
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MILSPEC II
(8 items)
 
| LUMO |
(6 items)
 
CLoS3 IMPACT
(8 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
5820k X99m WS 980ti strix 980ti strix 
RAMHard DrivePowerCase
KLEVV Cras DDR4  3tb Red Corsair 600w SFX + 450w SFX Caselabs BH4 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4970k Z97 Gryphon GTX 680 x2 Crucial Ballistix Elite 16Gb 
PowerCase
Be Quiet Dark Power 850 InWin D Frame Mini 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4770k ASUS Impact ITX R9 290 Gskill Trident 2400 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCase
Samsung EV0 250 x2 WD black Loop.....oh yes...... Caselabs S3....modded 
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post #99659 of 107137
My new SFF build:







Cables need a fair bit more training and the bends are nowehere near perfect (this was my first time water cooling). I plan to come in and replace all the petg when I first drain and replace the fluid. Also UV leds are on the way!
post #99660 of 107137
Looks great.. try to prop that gpu up a bit if you can.
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