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Cheaper phase change - Page 2

post #11 of 28
Just search for compressors. The car or boat conditioner compressors will work just fine for your tasks, if you need something with a bit more "umph" go to the Business/Industrial section and pick up a 220V compressor.
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post #12 of 28
Thread Starter 
KK,.. thx for now... I'll look into it again tomorrow.

That's the problem: I keep finding 300 & 400 volt ones (lol)

I mailed Danfoss, hopefully they'll give me a price for a BD35f (That thing I can trust, I feel )
I'll be looking at prometeia compressors too, or are they the same?
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post #13 of 28
Thread Starter 
Ok, so now I'm finding more and more useful compressors, like the nl11f - for €100 but I'm wondering about the vapochill "chillcontrol" which I don't have (It's a small platine with a couple of chips on there). Will I need something like that? Ofcourse I'll need the danfoss control electronics (the black box with the heatsink), but wouldn't that be enough? Give it power and go?
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post #14 of 28
Here's a quote from a reviewer:

"It is also not advisable to use phase change on the GPU 24/7 as they do not produce enough heat so battling condensation is quite a tricky process. Unless you tune the system to ~130W so that it will be adequate.

Phase is usable on the GPU for however for benching purposes where the card is practically always under load and isn’t ran for very long at a time. Though beware this is very high risk. A common idea amongst phase change users is to use phase change for the CPU and then either pelt or just watercool the gfx/nb."
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post #15 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by sladesurfer
Here's a quote from a reviewer:

"It is also not advisable to use phase change on the GPU 24/7 as they do not produce enough heat so battling condensation is quite a tricky process. Unless you tune the system to ~130W so that it will be adequate.

Phase is usable on the GPU for however for benching purposes where the card is practically always under load and isn’t ran for very long at a time. Though beware this is very high risk. A common idea amongst phase change users is to use phase change for the CPU and then either pelt or just watercool the gfx/nb."
LOL condensation proofing is not difficult, with that logic why bother overclock or phase change at all... It all boils down to how hardcore someone wants to go, that reviewer obviously isn't willing to go as extreme as lolicious is.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lolicious
Ok, so now I'm finding more and more useful compressors, like the nl11f - for €100 but I'm wondering about the vapochill "chillcontrol" which I don't have (It's a small platine with a couple of chips on there). Will I need something like that? Ofcourse I'll need the danfoss control electronics (the black box with the heatsink), but wouldn't that be enough? Give it power and go?
lolicious you don't need a chill controller, just give the compressor power (assuming you have the thing setup properly) and let it cool to its max. As for the electronics box, perhaps you can get that from a refrigeration service center.
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post #16 of 28
Wow!!
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post #17 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OC Newbie
lolicious you don't need a chill controller, just give the compressor power (assuming you have the thing setup properly) and let it cool to its max. As for the electronics box, perhaps you can get that from a refrigeration service center.
Thx,.. that's what I wanted to know.

@ sladesurfer: That picture? Man,... I don't know WHAT that guy did, ... but that could happen just aswell with a mainboard, I guess. Tuning down a bit is probaly not a bad idea though. Also there's the option of adding heat elements to the back side of the card, to ensure the cold doesn't spread through the entire platine (?is that what they're called in english? You know, the green (or red in pic above) "card" that the chips are mounted on and connected by).

Edited: That picture is laugh though How long did he wait till that happened... I'm surprised the whole thing didn't burn up,... aah... no... ofcourse... hehehe... that's what he wanted to do! Fire proof it! lol.
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post #18 of 28
Quote...."Also there's the option of adding heat elements to the back side of the card, to ensure the cold doesn't spread through the entire platine (?is that what they're called in english? You know, the green (or red in pic above) "card" that the chips are mounted on and connected by)."

Most commonly known as the PCB (printed circuit board)..
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post #19 of 28
Thread Starter 
That's it! Thx dude! I knew that didn't feel quite right,... hehe... a little german mixed in there,...
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post #20 of 28
It would have been better if that guy paint the videocard with liquid electrical tape first and put dielectric grease into the AGP socket. lolicious you should also invest in that before you phase your videocard.
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