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[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club - Page 1006

post #10051 of 28247
Ceadder look at the top of this page. Need help lol ^^
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post #10052 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reactions View Post
Ceadder look at the top of this page. Need help lol ^^
Please post the POST # the number of posts per page can be changed so the top page is not the top page for every one else,...
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post #10053 of 28247
Hi guys ..

i am looking for a 240mm RAD But with the same Thickness of the original H50 Rad , is that available ?

And could i share my vga card with the water loop of H50 without any problem ?

thanks
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post #10054 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by indofulioh View Post
Took some pics today...
EDIT: yikes, didn't notice how noisy these pics were.
neat pics. what camera do you use? love your setup and the DOF

tomorrow i think im getting Mr. HAF X. i'll post some temps with my setup

i also ordered enough fans to fill all the slots to the brim, turns out with my 120x120x25mm fan, the vga shroud will be able to be placed with my 5970 w00t.

they recommend a 38mm wide fan, they also say use of the shroud can decrease clearance by up to 40mm. that means the shroud is 2mm thick at the mount.

ive calculated out ill have 12.4 inches of clearance with the fan and shroud. the 5970 is 12.2 inches long.

i'll be using these on the vga shroud and the H50.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103063
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post #10055 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by dracotonisamond View Post
neat pics. what camera do you use? love your setup and the DOF

tomorrow i think im getting Mr. HAF X. i'll post some temps with my setup

i also ordered enough fans to fill all the slots to the brim, turns out with my 120x120x25mm fan, the vga shroud will be able to be placed with my 5970 w00t.

they recommend a 38mm wide fan, they also say use of the shroud can decrease clearance by up to 40mm. that means the shroud is 2mm thick at the mount.

ive calculated out ill have 12.4 inches of clearance with the fan and shroud. the 5970 is 12.2 inches long.

i'll be using these on the vga shroud and the H50.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103063
those pics he posted looks more of Photoshop edits to me
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post #10056 of 28247
my lapped H50


more pictures will upload later. i uploaded all into my facebook, but forget to upload it into photobucket = =
post #10057 of 28247
Check out post #10032. I had a psychic moment. But it probably got lost in the shuffle.

Since Pings has the 800D, I would certainly defer to him on most aspects of the case. But I did answer how you might go about setting up your fans. I have 3 exhausts and 3 intakes on mine.

Anyway just take a look @ #10032 and lemme know if you still have fan questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reactions View Post
Ceadder look at the top of this page. Need help lol ^^
I'm not sure you need a lapping as your temps are REALLY good.

If you get a couple degrees less on the back end I'd be surprised. It could be you already have a reasonably flat cooler:CPU surface contact. This is why you do a lapping.

That said, I will be posting my pre lapp temps and post lapp temps once I get it done.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SM0k3 View Post
That lap look really good Ceadder, I'm also interested in knowing what kind of differences it makes.

Also my CPU hit an all time low with the H50 today idling @ 23c and as I type this I'm encoding a movie using all 4 cores(100%) and the temps are steady at 33c.
Thanks for mentioning this. Right now I'm currently on 40 posts per page. But once I get all 8 Gigs from my Win7, I'm going back to 100 per page. The amount of photos loading was killing my load times per page in XP.

So hopefully people will take your lead and post the post # they refer to. Oh...

...speaking of which, I know I can't cure this issue posting here in this thread about it but maybe we can refrain from linking to a post as well? All it does is take people back to the OP. At least it does it for me. It's quite annoying to get a link that doesn't work. Even more annoying when the link defeats the purpose and basically says "It's in there somewhere guy, have fun".

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
Please post the POST # the number of posts per page can be changed so the top page is not the top page for every one else,...
3 things...

1) Solid lapping.

2) Looks like a primo moddification of your H50

3) Please tell me that's not Automotive Grade Antifreeze?
Remember that stuff does not go down a drain (leeches into water table), animals are prone to ingest the stuff(smells sweet) to a painfully gory end, and it's only meant for freezing temps. Hence the term anti-freeze. ALSO point of order here is that stuff gives off vapors when it's burned. So you definitely want to either change it out or continue paying $10 a gal to keep it filled. It still evaporates like standard h2o. But the point is Ethylene Glycol is nothing the shag about with.

I apologize for the negative (rant) feedback, but this is the 3rd time I've now seen its use and to me that's scary since I worked in the Automotive industry for a bit. Especially when Distilled Water is readily had for under $2 a gallon, is a solid coolant and with a bit of food coloring can be dyed. All you need is an anti-corrosive added to the mix and you're good.

Oh that reminds me... Anti-Freeze is a corrosive compound. Not good in a loop. Even one that's self contained.

I apologize for the bluntness.

~Ceadder

Quote:
Originally Posted by fssbzz View Post
my lapped H50


more pictures will upload later. i uploaded all into my facebook, but forget to upload it into photobucket = =

Edited by Ceadderman - 6/17/10 at 11:37am
 
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post #10058 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reactions View Post
I didn't think about the gpu rear exhaust, you got a point there. But at your picture you have all your top fans as exhaust, but you have that fancy front intake thing which I don't have. Should I still go exhaust with all those fans and just relying on the bottom stock fan as intake? Or should I Flip the three top fans to intake? Please help. I got my chip stable at 4 ghz at 1.248v, whuh is pretty good for an 860, but I still get pretty high temperatures. During 9 hours of Prime95 the max temp was 80c but it was hovering between 70-80c.
If you are going to setup it up like mine. You only need one top exhaust. You don't want to many exhaust fans up there. It will force out some of your airflow that you want going to you H50. One is just fine, 2 is OK ~, and 3 is too much.
post #10059 of 28247
Ok, it seems as if the guy doing the push/pull/shroud testing abandoned his thread, so I'll ask here.

Currently, this is how my H50 is set up...

< Case | Rad | Coolermaster R4 <



...it is exhausting air, with the help of a Coolermaster R4. I have another R4 exhausting air in the top of the case, two intake on the front and two intake on the side panel. My current idle temp is 33-34c, but is usually around 37-38c. I haven't run Prime95 today, but I did yesterday when idle was around 37-38c and under load it maxed out at 52c.

What I was wanting to do, if it will yield lower temps...

< Case | Rad | 38-50mm Shroud | CoolerMaster R4 <

Will adding that shroud noticeably reduce my idle and load temps? Will I see better results adding the shroud, plus a pull fan on the outside of the case? Will I see better results doing either of those, but having the fan(s) as intake rather than exhaust?

I originally had the rad and fan mounted in the 5.25" bay, as intake, but I felt that even though the rad was getting fresh air, it was exhausting the now-hot air all over my RAM and CPU so I moved them to the back of the case as exhaust. I think this did have some effect on the CPU temps, they seem a bit lower than before.

I prefer a clean and low-profile look, so I prefer to not have anything mounted on the outside of the case, and I don't want this thing being right up against the pump head on the CPU...so this kind of rules out a push/pull setup. My existing setup plus a shroud will be pushing it, but it's something I can live with.
 
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post #10060 of 28247
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny.dot.exe View Post
Ok, it seems as if the guy doing the push/pull/shroud testing abandoned his thread, so I'll ask here.

Currently, this is how my H50 is set up...

< Case | Rad | Coolermaster R4 <



...it is exhausting air, with the help of a Coolermaster R4. I have another R4 exhausting air in the top of the case, two intake on the front and two intake on the side panel. My current idle temp is 33-34c, but is usually around 37-38c. I haven't run Prime95 today, but I did yesterday when idle was around 37-38c and under load it maxed out at 52c.

What I was wanting to do, if it will yield lower temps...

< Case | Rad | 38-50mm Shroud | CoolerMaster R4 <

Will adding that shroud noticeably reduce my idle and load temps? Will I see better results adding the shroud, plus a pull fan on the outside of the case? Will I see better results doing either of those, but having the fan(s) as intake rather than exhaust?

I originally had the rad and fan mounted in the 5.25" bay, as intake, but I felt that even though the rad was getting fresh air, it was exhausting the now-hot air all over my RAM and CPU so I moved them to the back of the case as exhaust. I think this did have some effect on the CPU temps, they seem a bit lower than before.

I prefer a clean and low-profile look, so I prefer to not have anything mounted on the outside of the case, and I don't want this thing being right up against the pump head on the CPU...so this kind of rules out a push/pull setup. My existing setup plus a shroud will be pushing it, but it's something I can live with.
you should do a push/pull exhaust setup first, then add shrouds if you want to lower temps some more. push/pull will definitely lower your temps
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